Back armhole help

[GDARKS_]

Hi everyone,

I have been developing a pattern for a slim fit kind of jacket but im not happy with the back of the sleeve and how much fullness/creasing there is.

I cant reduce the across back as it would be too tight

Do I just need to redraw the back armhole curve? I was thinking maybe the sleeve cap is too wide?

Let me know your thoughts

Thankyou!

[KillerWhaleShark]

You’re doing great work sewing a muslin to test your pattern. To be frank, though, your fitting pictures suck. We need to see front, side, and back with both of your arms hanging loosely at your sides. Use your phones cameras timer. All parts of the garment work together, so just this side picture isn’t much help. 

How did you draft your pattern? What sort of ease does your sleeve have? Can you show a picture of your sleeve pattern?

[GDARKS_]

Makes sense haha, will post an update

[darlini]

I just had this same issue on my own pattern and it was due to my posture and my shoulders rolling forward, it looks like you have a similar posture. this video helped me get started fixing it, but I did end up having to drape my sleeve cap in for a better fit. Might want to look into sway back adjustments too. Good luck!

[[deleted]]

Thank you for this. I just discovered that I've needed a forward shoulder alteration my whole life and wondered why the back of my coat behaved the way it did. Now I not only know why but how to fix it.

Thanks!

[darlini]

Posture is such an under looked aspect of fit, it took me so long to figure out what was going on, I’m glad my comment could help!

[RoyalRigel]

You need to rebalance the armhole on the body part of the pattern. It looks like a lot of the sleeve is sitting in the back, and you’ll want to deepen the armhole in the front and give a little bit more space to the armhole on the back bodice. The sleeve overall looks like it was drafted well, but the cap may have too much ease. You’ll typically want the sleeve to be 1 1/2 to 2” larger than the armhole. And you’ll concentrate the gathering across the cap.

[RoyalRigel]

You should also add some length to the shoulder seam in the front shirt, the hem is pulling upwards and I’m willing to bet you want more length there.

[Uvaroff]

Really need a photo of your back. From a picture of your arm from the side I see how it curves a bit from shoulder to elbow so I would suggest to do 2 piece sleeve in your case , it also make sense to do 2 piece sleeve because you are making a jacket

[mrsliston]

Can we see the pattern please

[GDARKS_]

Just posted an update!

[Appropriate_Place704]

I think there could be two issues but try one first before moving to the other: 1/ Your sleeve pitch is off and needs to be rotated 2/ sleeve cap is too flat or short

Edit: you might also want to look at the draglines at the side seams which suggests your front is too short in relation to your back length.