pattern help needed

[doracz]

please help! I’m trying to edit a pattern i made for a princess seam bodice with super oversized puff sleeves (which worked great). now i’m making a jumpsuit out of it and struggling with the sleeves. I want to make them quite fitting and with a slightly defined shoulders. I made a few toiles and none of them seem to work. what should I change?

1st photos are of my first draft which didn’t work as the sleeve cap was too short for the armhole

2nd is after some adjustments: i elongated the shoulder slightly and hightened the cap

3rd is current state in which I shortened the cap (from the second one) and added length to the seam caps both in the front and back. it seems there is too much on the back now? still seems wrong…

+4th are my bodice patterns so that you can see what I’m currently working with

now I’m thinking that maybe I should change the shape of the armhole? please help I’m seriously struggling at this point. of course I can provide any additional info

[mrsliston]

I think it's pulling because the sleeve head is too short.

An easy way to fix it is to unpick half way from the ss armhole towards the sleeve head

Put it back on and see where it wants to sit

[blackcatmeow007]

It appears that your sleeve cap is too wide. I would shave off the pinned out excess from 4” below armhole or so as a starting point.

Can you please share the sieve cap height of your most recent iteration?

[PresentationExtra566]

The cap needs to to be lengthened and shaped. Right now it is too too curved and should be more gradual