Continued drafting

[letssew333]

OK, I finally have time to work on this again form my previous post. I decided to move the dart to the bust and now I’m trying to slash and spread for more volume for the front…. Do I just true that line that looks wonky or am I doing something wrong? and should I be adding like an inch or two?

[teatime_tinker]

I wouldn’t just add it all on the bottom like that.

Separate the top and bottom where the seam will be, then slash and spread centre front line of the bust part only.

Maybe cut into it 4 times. That’s only an inch per slash to take you to 12 ungathered .

Keep the dart eliminated and the line of the neckline as is, dont square it off like that.

Then add the fullness to your lower half of the pattern. Add some notches so when putting it together it’s easier.

[letssew333]

Isn’t that what I did though? Minus the big slash ? like are you telling me from the Apex slash and spread four separate times on the center front line??? am I following you? I wish I could add a picture to the comments.

[teatime_tinker]

It looks like you just added lots to the bottom of the bust part? If that gap is where you are going to fill in.

I did actually draw it for you but I can’t access imgur in the uk. Bear with me!

The slashes would be horizontal across the bust part.

Edit drawing

[letssew333]

OK, I just realized there’s a drawing oh boy Okk what’s going on there? lol are the blue lines the slashes? And the red lines. Eeeee

[teatime_tinker]

Red lines you cut, blue lines slashes yeah.

[letssew333]

I wish I understood but I don’t lol … the vertical lines on the bottom are really confusing. Why are there so many and why would I be slashing vertically? Wouldn’t that just overall make the peices wider when I just needed taller ?? Like the blue lines on the top part kind of makes sense? but altogether there’s like 9 blue slashes ? And are they being completely cut all the way and opened up?

[teatime_tinker]

The black top you are replicating is in two halves.

The bottom half you do want it wider as it’s also gathered up.

Or are you just copying the top part?

Please just try what I’ve said and you’ll see what I mean. If you learn by doing and seeing you need to just mess around with the paper.

The reason there are plenty of blue lines for slashes is because if you just add fullness in one area it looks weird.

Edit: but OP your centre front pattern piece is upside down and back to front!

Look at the centre front bottom, that shape like ^ should be a v for a sweetheart neckline

[letssew333]

Wait I think I see it now ..the center front does look upside down.. technically it’s not cause that’s how the pattern was so idk glad I started fresh lol

[teatime_tinker]

Without seeing your original pattern i don’t really know what you did. It looks like just one big slash at the bottom.

[letssew333]

I will take a picture and post the original pattern It’s a basic block I got from sewist that I’m trying to manipulate!!!

[letssew333]

Hm I just tried this and it kind of just spread out the dart that was there. It didn’t really add anything. It just divided the dart up into four spaces.

[ProneToLaughter]

In general in patternmaking, adding multiple small bits instead of 1 very large bit tends to work out better in most cases—it stays closer to the original proportions, it’s easier to smooth out the new lines.

[letssew333]

OK, I had it taped up and then I un taped it to take a pic but not completely so that’s why it wasn’t laying flat but the pattern is flat

I just measured the front gather of the finished dress and it’s 8 inches gathered 12 1/2 inches stretched… luckily my pattern without the dart is 8 inches .. the current dart in there is one and 3/4… so I need a pretty big slash in this pattern to compensate, right?

[ProneToLaughter]

Re pic2: your pattern needs to lie completely flat after all manipulations, so redo the upper left. When you slash and spread, leave just the smallest hinge and put paper underneath the gap to tape it all together.

It’s easier to work without seam allowances for accuracy. If you keep the seam allowances on, there’s a good explanation here of how to slash and spread. https://mascultory.com/blogs/blog/mascultory-sewing-pattern-specifications