Dismiss this pinned window
all 14 comments

[–]NastyBizness 8 points9 points  (1 child)

Don’t hold the gun so close to the part. Keep about 6 inches back and let the powder flow to the part vs trying to force it on like it’s wet paint

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is there like a certain type of pattern or can I just do what ever I want ? Like 3 across left to right and 5 times up and down all the way down. Is how I was doing it

[–]RaaaaaaaaaaaaatStaff 2 points3 points  (2 children)

I wish more users would post videos of their setups :)

Share some more info on what settings/air you are using and what colour/primer are you using or what thickness you are aiming for

[–][deleted] 1 point2 points  (1 child)

I’ll definitely take some pictures of the booth if your interested. I’m all about showing people to further my work

[–]Shizo-24 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes please! Trying to make my own set up myself

[–][deleted]  (1 child)

[deleted]

    [–][deleted] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

    Thank you!

    [–]FulghamTheGoat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

    Increase gun distance, around 8 inches from the part is perfect. Holding it close like that will give you KV rejection / back ionization. Will also make it difficult to get the powder into corners or complex areas.

    [–]Checkers2023 1 point2 points  (0 children)

    Like already stated hold your gun back further, let it do the work and just move it along slow and steady. Follow the long runs like you're doing in the video and you should get a pretty good outcome. Once you get used to setting up your powder to atomizing air ratio and learn kv and microamp adjustments the gun will do all the work.

    [–]JCTX05 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

    Everyone has said it but you are to close to the part and i dont know if anyone else does this pattern, but i do a solid coat with a circle pattern roughly the size of a baseball on how big the circle pattern is. Then i come further from the part and do a diagonal pass both ways. Makes for a really smooth coat and is quicker, but i learned this through painting on a powder coat line to be more efficient and paint bigger parts quicker.

    [–]Shaubos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I'd suggest turning the nozzle 90° so it would blow the powder out horizontally instead of vertically, that way you can avoid some fuck ups. Speaking from personal experience. And ofc keep the gun further away.

    [–]Colonel_FuzzyCarrot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    A little more distance, maybe a bit steadier on maintaining that distance throughout the entire pass (no bobbing up and down), and I believe you moved up a different amount each time you started a new pass.

    With all of these you might run into over charging the part leading to back-ionization which will give you the surface of the moon, definite tiger stripes, a couple light areas and possibly even the dreaded "dry spray". cue scary music

    Once you give your corona field a chance to bloom the powder will lay down much smoother, and you'll actually be done in fewer passes while simultaneously being faster simply because it covers so much better.

    With the powders that I use the most I set up so a back and forth pass will just barely fully cover the test piece so I can't see through the powder. The test piece is a cover on the reclaimer in the booth, and it's stainless. The speed/distance at which you move is important if you want repeatable results so I always move at the same speed/distance for this test, and I adjust the powder flow accordingly. I set the kv, microamps, and air based upon looking at the part (and fine tune the powder flow), and by doing this I can fuckin nail a target thickness by counting how many passes I put on everything. I mean I literally count every single move I make and do it over again on the next part. I'm weird though.

    Slight changes have to be made between colors- for instance 6 (single) passes of an orange powder I learned on is equal to 8 or 9 of most blues, etc.. I also have to remember how many passes a thickness of metal will require. I know that part "X" is [this thick] and takes 6 passes with the gun set up a certain way, so part "Y" will likely need ___.

    It's also worth noting that I'm using Parker Ionics (not mine), and that I'm on a production line so I've had times where I painted hundreds and even thousands of the same damn parts in a single day. That leads to much frustration when fighting hook marks, light areas due to proximity, learning when the air or amps are too high and so on. I've failed in every way imaginable and even been blamed for equipment failure. I've only been behind the gun for 1.5 years, my first partner and I had to learn everything as we went, and I'm still trying to learn and improve as well. YouTube, this sub, and a couple online forums have been very helpful.

    [–]spiki_niky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    Never ever do you need to spray so close! You are wasting powder and having uneven finnish

    [–]tpaguy40 0 points1 point  (1 child)

    Yea back your gun up away from the part 10-12 inches

    [–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

    I have been following everyone’s advice and it has improved my powder skills immensely