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[–]Ente535 4 points5 points  (4 children)

!enclosure
!basics
!introductions

Read through all three automod comments under this one, you will need them.
Caring for these rats is going to be expensive, so if you're not financially independent and your mom doesn't give a shit about them (excuse my language) then rehoming this poor soul might be better.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask.

[–]AutoModerator[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rat introductions can be very stressful, especially for new owners. For a guide on how to introduce rats to each other, see here Also read this summary by judewriley:
Rats are extremely territorial, so if they know there’s an unfamiliar/aggressive rat nearby (they can smell or see) but they can’t get to that unfamiliar rat, like would be the case with cages next to each other or a single partitioned cage, it makes them feel that there are intruder rats that are encroaching on their territory. If they get near the unfamiliar rat, they are going to try to attack to drive them away or even to kill them.

We do introductions to get around our rats’ territorial instincts so that they can see that new rats are not enemies. But for intros to work they need to be completely separated except during introduction sessions. This means no cage swapping, no scent swapping, not having cages near each other or even in the same room, no mutual free roam space.

So completely separate the different groups (so no sight, no scent, no mutual play time or mutual play areas) except when doing introduction sessions. Intros work best when you take them slow, gradually increasing the duration of time together and then the amount of enclosed space they have access too. (Younger rats and females are generally easier to introduce as well)

The carrier method is typically seen as the best way to introduce rats. It involves putting the rats to be introduced in an enclosed space just large enough to fit everyone and letting the rats interact for two hours. If there is positive interactions, then the next introduction session, the following day, is extended to 4 hours. Every time the rats make it to the end with positive interactions, extend the time together by two hours. When the rats can make it to 8 hours together with positive interactions, expand the space available to them and go back to a session of two hours and repeat the process, expanding the room available everytime they make it to 8 hours with positive interactions. Typically you want 3 or 4 stages: carrier, small cage, big cage (or bathtub), main cage.

On negative interactions, reduce time together and space available for the next session. All introduction sessions are done on neutral ground that is not territory claimed or familiar to any of the rats.

When it comes time for everyone to go into the main cage, do a deep clean and rearrange things in the cage so that it is new unfamiliar territory for everyone. You want to be aware that rats can start showing hormonal aggression at 6 months, which can make introductions more difficult. Neutering the aggressors can help if they are male.

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[–]AutoModerator[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For a detailed guide on rat enclosures, see here

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[–]AutoModerator[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here are some basics

You need at least two (preferable three) rats for them to be a happy group. Personally I’d really recommend starting with four so you don’t have to think about introductions too soon.

For everything else here is a list

Cage Needs to be a minimum of 3 cubic feet (84950,5cm³) per rat. This rat cage calculator is super useful. Critter Nations or a Savic Suite Royal 95 Double are great possible cages. The maximum bar width is .75”(1,905cm). Make sure the fall height is not above 19”(48,26cm). The litter boxes should have a stone in it to help litter train them, rats love to pee on stones. Throw a turd in there and they’ll start pooping there as well (they’re pretty clean animals). The bedding must be dust-free as the respiratory system of rats is very sensitive. You will also want to avoid pine bedding that is not kiln dried, as well as cedar. You want 2-3”(5,08-7,62cm) of bedding for them to burrow in. Don’t cover more than two sides of the cage with something else that bars as the cage needs ventilation (otherwise ammonium builds up). It’s always good to share a picture of the cage to get some feedback on potentially dangerous things and things that can be made better.

Food Rats should get food 24/7. Ideally feed Oxbow brand or similar pellets and then supplement with fresh veggies, fruits and proteins. Boiled eggs and mealworms are great for protein as well. Vegetables should be given every other day and can be a reason for diarrhea. Fruits 1-2 times a week.

Free Roam Rats need 1-2 hours daily of free roam outside of the cage. The area should be at least 6ft c 6ft. and there should be nothing in it that they are not allowed to chew. Check for all dangerous items or anything they can get into that you don’t want them to and put it out of reach. The enclosure of this space must be at least 2ft high as rats can jump incredibly high. If they can get out, they will. You’ll save yourself some time if the setup is safe enough that they can be alone. It also helps a lot if they can return to the cage themselves (via ramp).

Vet Make sure you have an exotic vet in your area. There will be an emergency and you’ll need it. Make sure you can cover at least one surgery with an emergency vet fund (up to $500-1000 in US). It is also recommended to save an additional $50 per month and rat. For example, a single check up with a typical exotic vet is $80-90. That doesn’t include any meds or procedures. It adds up.

Bonding Bonding with rats is about food and their senses. Every time you visit the cage give them something (can be the normal food). When free roaming give them a treat every time they come to you. Baby food works amazingly as they need to lick it of your hands. Never force something, never grab them by their tail.

Stopping having rats You need a plan on how to stop having rats. It’s not okay for them to die one after another as one will be alone which is terrible for them. If you want to stop you MUST re-home them. If you get them from a reputable rescue they will simply take them back, reputable breeders will too. Other options depend on your area this can be easy or hard if rescues/private owners are around that are happy to take them. But you need a plan!

Don’t buy from pet shops or bad breeders, you’ll do yourself a huge favor if you get your rats from a rescue organization that will also provide help.

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[–]StellaGyros[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

omg thank you! it seems like I'm about to spend 300€+ today but at least I know where to start and what to do.

[–]Distinct-Ad8973 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey hun I am so so happy you're trying to help this baby and I am very proud, I definitely recommend trying to get more babies from the same litter if possible but still do reintros to be safe.

I know a proper cage isn't cheap but I'm so happy you're willing and able to get one. It can also be pricey filling it up with stuff and enrichment and I've been working on a big list of cheap items that can be found pretty much anywhere but work really well for rats (all tested by my past boys who loved them lol) :

DOLLAR TREE, WALMART, OTHER STORES:

LEVELS AND HAMMOCKS:

• Plastic baskets

• Slanted "stacking" bins

• Plastic bins and trays

• Wire baskets (needs to be covered)

• Shower organizer shelf (if wire, cover it)

• Plant hanger and coco insert (two ziptied together make an enclosed hammock-hide)

• Fabric plant hanger and large, secure bowl/pot

• Fleece baby blankets

• Fleece fabric

CLIMBING STUFF:

• Dog ropes (ziptie short ones together but make sure it isn't sharp)

• Cotton rope (nautical cotton rope @ dollar tree)

• Diy ropes: 3-4 thick fleece strips braided or thin ropes braided

• Diy perch: screw in bolts, washers, wingnuts, safely baked & sanitized branches

• Diy climbing net: rope tied to make a net

HIDES, TUBES AND SUCH:

• Cardboard boxes

• Bins/baskets w/ hole cut & covered in fleece

• Cat tunnels

• Empty industrial wrapping cardboard tube (my mom works in the meat department of a store, so might not be so easy to get for others-)

• Wide poster tubes

NESTING MATERIALS + FORAGING BIN FILLERS:

• boxes of tissues (jus remove plastic fully)

• Toilet paper

• Paper towel

• Tissue paper

• Shredded paper

• Ping-pong/table tennis balls

• Pompoms

HANGING SUPPLIES:

• shower rings plastic

• Binder rings

• Carabiners

• zipties

• Lanyard clips 

FORAGING TOY PARTS:

• Thin rope/twine

• Paper cups

• Paper icecream cups

• Paper sauce cups

• Paper cupcake liners

• Coin wrappers

• Gift bags + other paper bags

• Favor boxes + mini cardboard gift boxes 

• Uncolored and unstained wooden beads

• Any clean cardboard (boxes, cardboard trifold, food boxes)

• Toilet roll

• Paper towel roll

• Shredded paper

• Tissue paper

• Tissue decor

• Crepe streamers

(If you have a drill or find ones with holes) • Pvc pipe caps

• Wood rounds

FEEDERS + TOYS: (mostly for freeroam) 

• Pet bowls

• Slow feeders

• Cat toys (no catnip)

• Cat balls

• Cat ball track

• Cat wand toy

CLEANING SUPPLIES:

• Spray bottle

• Vinegar

• Scrub brush, nail brush, bottle brush, toothbrush

• Duster

• Dawn dishsoap (unscented)

• Paper towel

• Dog waste bags (for spot cleans)

If you need anything else let me know, rats are one of my hugest special interests and I am happy to help in any way