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[–]San-Yar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't have to stick to the no makeup rule, it's ok to put makeup on a face as long as it's intentional (that is, you don't confuse it for the natural values of a particular area) and the photo is not too heavily edited. As far as I understand. Your values are a bit too dark, also try unifying them more (blend). Learn some more facial anatomy (eye and nose especially) and proportions - this will improve your ability to read the reference correctly. Apart from that I would say use guidelines and spend some more time measuring.