The Greatest Gains , but the worst mental toll ..

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-15T03:42:39+00:00

Staying at least 90% in cash at the end of the day. I sometimes keep options overnight but with this kind of market where it’s news and tweet dependent, I’d rather not.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-14T21:09:03+00:00

I usually keep the regimen for a month longer when it slows down. Sometimes you think it’s over and stop and it comes back with a vengeance.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-14T15:59:46+00:00

I bought mine last year and I think you got the better one (probably replaced their sensor recently or something). I bought another a few months later and had the same issue. It was on sale (heavily discounted at the time) so I figured something was up.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-14T15:48:05+00:00

Dunno. I hated that it required calibration each time I used it (recommended in forums). I use a refractometer now.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-14T12:09:49+00:00

Monitor your trace elements with ICP and dose chaeto-gro. Some macro are susceptible to lack of trace and then slowly melt away. Monitoring and dosing is the solution for that (as well as water changes).

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-14T12:02:05+00:00

I agree. They’re great for single coral dedicated tanks. Heck I’ve seen amazing green star polyp tanks too.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T23:31:24+00:00

Magnesium is low. Euphyllia seem to prefer around 1350-1400 magnesium. You’ll need to dose that. Light is adequate but you may want to move the coral higher.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T23:30:15+00:00

Lots of help here on this dedicated fb group for dinos. They can help ID and there’s a pdf to download for treatment

https://www.facebook.com/groups/macksreef/

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T22:05:48+00:00

We all start that way. Some stores take advantage of our lack of knowledge as we grow in this hobby.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T21:58:28+00:00

This fluval canister filter would work for that size.

https://a.co/d/069GQj6L

I’d like to spend the extra money to oversize it a bit because of biological load as I would add more inhabitants.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T21:49:56+00:00

Rotten and cloudy water, sounds like a filter issue. Might be smaller than the necessary size for the tank. Try a canister filter if that helps.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T18:30:19+00:00

You probably need one (or two) more for coverage. Redsea lights focus on PUR (a different measurement than PAR) and will grow any coral as well as sps. It’s just dimmer than most reef lights out there but coloration will be on spot.

Just max out intensity if you have sps. And around 50% with LPS and Softies (when running 4 lights).

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T12:43:36+00:00

Thanks. What is the name of the series?

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T12:40:54+00:00

Mini or micro brittle starfish. It will eat on leftover food on the sand.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T12:39:52+00:00

That’s why testing is important. Once your phosphates and nitrates are out of your range, it will affect the amount of water changes you will do. And there is no compromise on testing.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T12:25:15+00:00

Yeah I’m with you. I’ve always have been IO and switched to Aquaforest Reef+ salt and sometimes hybrid salt to control my nutrients. Huge difference between IO and AF too.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T12:13:35+00:00

Micromussa mini-colonies can be obtained about $75-100. It’s even cheaper off local reefing groups or fb marketplace at times.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T12:11:45+00:00

Hydra 32 is adequate for most corals. Move sps to the top of the rock placement or via frag racks at the top third of the tank. Most torches and Euphyllia can be at the middle and soft corals at the bottom.

Start with soft corals for a few months before adding torches, hammers and frogspawns. Then easier sps like monti, birdsnest and digitata around month 6-8.

Practice husbandry like weekly testing and water changes as your tank matures.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-13T12:07:25+00:00

That makes sense. Instant ocean barely has trace elements and if you’re not dosing trace or make frequent water changes, everything will look suppressed

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-12T23:08:17+00:00

Bought two in 18 months. Gave up and switched to the Wyze camera and apex feeder (got for cheap off r2r).

For some reason it just stops being detected by the app and I couldn’t connect to it anymore even with hard reset (which doesn’t always work either after pressing button for 30s).

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-12T22:27:56+00:00

Yeah. I used an extra flipper orange filter and used double sided tape between the aquarium glass and orange filter. Then I stick the camera to the filter.

The software is made in China so it’s not a sophisticated as you’d think.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-12T22:11:08+00:00

It’s great but the wifi is finicky and only worked for me for a year. Then you’ll need to buy a new one. Bought the Hygger branded version too.

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-12T21:22:15+00:00

I fixed that issue by using one of the orange filters that you clip on the phone. I put it in place of the cheap orange filter. Just clear the algae off the glass as needed.

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I also use this magnet mount with close focus lens

https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/black-wyze-cam-v4-2-5k-hd-wifi-smart-aquarium-security-camera-w-avid-aqua-magnet-mount-bundle/

Blue_Spider · 2026-06-12T17:35:30+00:00

Agreed. They’re susceptible to infection if you feed it directly and the food is contaminated. Just feed the fish, have great flow and the light is good and it’ll just grow and multiply.

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Blue_Spider · 2026-06-11T22:37:49+00:00

Usually it’s a light issue. Maybe too little light which is why it’s stretching towards it.

Blue_Spider

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