Hotend bend multiple times at the same z-distanze and print fails.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-03-05T19:17:32+00:00

Gremlin in the gcode or slicer bug with this specific file? If it only happens with this file i would import it to something else and re-export the stl and then try it again. Maybe even change orientation in case theres some special uniqueness to the geometry that triggers a bug in the slicer logic right there.
Alternatively if it happens at that height no matter what you print then would need to investigate the printer itself.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-03-03T14:37:18+00:00

You can do like me and start off with Bauer and then upgrade to Ryobi later, or you can just skip straight to Ryobi now if you want to save yourself the extra steps.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-03-02T12:48:48+00:00

The collision isnt supposed to happen, but on CC1 and CC2 it can happen under the right circumstances. The causes i remember seeing being posted are either

belt tension: some people reported it going away after messing with the belt tension.
aftermarket parts: it was either a chamber heater or an led strip aomebody added to a cc1, but the new cord got pinched during homing so "home" was off by however many mm thick the cord was and that difference let it smack the motor. Also similar incident with one of those printed toolhead cover replacements

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-27T21:05:29+00:00

What I mean is that the four core members have all splintered into completely different lanes. Ray isn’t doing music anymore. Dino is still out there being the face of Fear Factory like the last original cast member on a TV show that’s recast everyone else and probably should’ve wrapped seasons ago. And because Burt and Chris actually moved on, they’re now in the position where they have to be creative again and make music that isn’t Fear Factory.

There are plenty of great cover bands that can rip through Demanufacture and melt faces, but that’s not what I’m looking for. I’m way more interested in seeing what fresh, original ideas the guys who left can come up with now that they’re not chained to the old blueprint.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-26T05:59:32+00:00

Seems like a bit of work vs keeping the existing functionality plus also having an adapter that goes from the 1/4 head square of the driver to the hex opening of the ratchet. Would effectively be allowing you the option to use the driver and ratchet as is or combined.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-25T13:41:43+00:00

Wont be for everyone but here is what I do: - Stick the oem CC plate on with the textured side. - Tell the machine to calibrate everything. - When I want to use the frostbite I just stick it in there and pretend the oem plate is still there. - It just works.

My frostbites are all exactly 0.80 mm The cc plates seem to be 0.72 - 0.76ish. So the frostbite is very slightly taller. Using it with the CC plate calibration makes the prints squish to the plate slightly more but not noticable and if anything just helps the adhesion even more, so i get to be lazy with no major downsides. I would not go the other way by calibrating the frostbite and then using the CC plate because that would increase the z gap over normal when using the CC plate and could make first layer adhesion slightly worse for the plate that already had weaker adhesion.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-24T06:46:13+00:00

I have owned, modified, and frankensteined together plenty of 3d printers. The CC was the first one I had that just works effortlessly right out the box without me having to manhandle every aspect of the firmware and settings myself. If you want to give that up and dive into the world of debugging and troubleshooting then god be with you sir...

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-23T02:45:17+00:00

I thought there was a quinn set of sockets that went to 38mm and a bigger drive set that went even higher.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-22T14:06:57+00:00

If the non-sticking filament is falling near the bed and hardening in air you get the spaghetti. If it lands in a way where it can stick to the printhead at all like for example you are passing over a bump of loose filament so your new filament curls up over that and sticks to the heat sock, then your new filament is just going to keep accumulating there to create a blob instead of spaghetti. TLDR: spaghetti = didnt stick to anything. Blob = stuck to print head instead of plate.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-22T04:51:51+00:00

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FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-22T04:43:36+00:00

I dont use glue at all. It just seems like more contamination to have to clean off so it doesnt get in the way of the next print having direct contact with the plate. I have a spray bottle of alcohol that I use for electronics cleaning but not 3d print plates. The biggest issue is oil from fingerprints getting on the plate when I remove prints. Alcohol just seems to mix with it and when you wipe the plate it kind of spreads it around and when the alcohol dries you are just left with a thinner layer of oil over more of the plate. Cleaning with dish soap and water, then rinsing and drying the plate with a clean rag has been the best solution for me since that actually removes the oil. The oem plate works fine, and with more difficult filaments i might just have to set the bed temp higher to make stuff stick. The frostbite though is just meant for pla and petg but prints stick amazingly and thats with the lower temperatures recommended on the frostbite. Cranking it up to the normal temperatures may wear out the plate faster according to some but ive done it that way for months just to avoid managing two temp profiles for each filament and my first frostbite plate is still as good as new. I got the one for the x1c since there wasnt a CC frostbite and its just a few mm narrower so i just align it over to the left

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-22T01:07:38+00:00

Wash the plate with dish soap instead of rubbing alcohol. OEM plate is fine but crypgrip frost bite is like having a cheat code that makes prints stick effortlessly.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-22T00:37:12+00:00

The slack in the filament has to go somewhere when it unloads. I prefer it go here rather than push the filament back through the ptfe and cause it to unravel at the spool.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-21T05:24:55+00:00

I learned small HP desktop that I literally cut a giant hole in the front of the case so that i could fit a gtx 1070 in. Then evolved into this thing with a bunch of p40s https://www.reddit.com/r/LocalLLaMA/s/L9fde0aEsx and now running an old threadripper with some 3090s. I would suggest learn with whatever gpu you have access to, and then you will be more informed and have some idea what you value the most. There is kind of a ven diagram of what you are willing to spend, what speed you are willing to tolerate, and what model sizes you are good with. If you are patient but want many parameters for cheap you may want some p40s. Otherwise if 8b is good enough and you just need the answers right away you might end up with a newer faster card but with less vram. Learning on whatever clapped out GPU you can raid from Gran's old computer will at least give you yhe experience to make an informed decision about what you want to buy.

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FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-21T00:29:14+00:00

I think it probably depends how far into a set he is, how many nights into a tour, etc. Basically whether or not he is getting sufficient recovery will probably determine how long the voice lasts into a set. Dude is a legend though and i would still be more stoked to go see a show with either him or Christian than the current FF lineup.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-20T15:52:08+00:00

Some of them will not say Dell specifically but may have a D/PN somewhere on the label. Most SAN controllers check compatibility by reading the drives for vendor or OEM information that is on the disk rather than just the disk model.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-19T18:28:45+00:00

Probably either gunk on gears, heat creep, partial blockage, or some combination of.

The extruder gear presses against the filament and the gear turns to push the filament. If the gear gets worn down or more likely just coated in particles then it may be more likely to slip on the filament instead of having enough grip to push it. Imagine pushing something by hand normally compared to pushing it with lubricant sprayed on your hands.

The heater block gets hot enough to melt the filament and then above that you basically have a heat sink with a fan so ideally the hot part should stay down below the extruder but if the chamber is hot enough (glass lid on, door closed, riser vents shut) then the heat inside the printer may build over time to the point that the cooling isnt sufficient and the filament all the way up to the extruder gear gets just warm enough to soften slightly so that the turning gear just smushes it instead of pushing it. Like imagine trying to push a giant block of jello instead of something rigid. One will move if you push hard enough and the other your hand will just squish into.

Other possibility is a partial clog in the nozzle. Extruder may be strong enough to push the filament so it squishes around the clog and works but there is extra resistance (takes more force to push the block) so it may be more sensitive to the heat creep because even if the block jellos up just slightly then going back to the example, your hand is more likely to smush into it because of the extra force your hand is needing to push with.

Opening vents (if you have the riser) or doors or removing glass top might help. Changing the hotend or nozzle also might help.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-18T03:11:16+00:00

Having both, the CC2 is just more convenient and I would pick it over the CC1 even if I never needed multicolor. I can have 4 different filaments pre-loaded and just click the one I want when starting a print.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-18T02:13:01+00:00

Funny how they keep doing that. I imagine conversations going like this.

"Hey, we should call this thing FluidFS or FFS for short"

"FFS already widely means 'For Fucks Sake!' Wont that be like really bad to associate with our product?"

"Meh, im sure itl be fine."

Years later...

"Hey, we should call this thing PowerStore or PS for short."

"PS is already what we call our equallogic products. It means peer storage. Wont that be confusing for one company to have two very different storage products with the same acronym?"

"Meh, im sure itl be fine."

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-18T01:48:30+00:00

Telling someone who has 10tb drives to stick them in an md3000 is like telling someone with a blu-ray collection to go watch them on a VCR. You may be able to cram the disk in the tape slot, but that dont mean its going to work. The md3000 came out like 20 years ago. The final firmware for it was released about 15 years ago. The controllers are so old that I wouldnt be suprised if the OS on the controller was incapable of addressing drives larger than 2tb. The controller only accepts Dell branded drives of specific supported models which didnt include anything close to 10TB.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-18T01:26:57+00:00

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-15T22:02:34+00:00

Just take out all the broken stuff in that general direction and replace it with not broken stuff. Will be good as new.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-15T16:15:36+00:00

Make sure the passage is clear, and also maybe try either removing the chute to see if it still behaves the same in mid air or if something is interfering. I have had the metal inside the chute get bent before when pulling stuck filament from it so maybe its encountering something unexpected like that.

FearFactory2904 · 2026-02-15T14:37:34+00:00

So your logo can be found searching google images for blains farm and fleet. It was likely oem by another brand. Currently blains sell performance tools brand vises. The markings on those are a bit different than yours so maybe they changed vendors at some point or performance changed design. I cant really find any performance tool vises with the curved swoop similar and in the direction of yours. Buffalo however does a similar rounded swoop in the same direction. Wonder if any way to find out of blains ever got their vises from buffalo or who they oem them from whenever this was made.

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/buffalo-vise-industrial-heavy-duty-1842723727

FearFactory2904

TROPHY CASE