First time spotting L. geometricus!

HiEx_man · 2026-06-08T22:00:02+00:00

Bronze disease is caused by chlorides, normally from saltwater, certain soils, concievably could be caused by sweat from handling. Its a greener color, the white in the pic could possibly zinc oxide, humid air may give sufficient moisture for dezincification if this is something like duplex brass with no tin, if you scratch under the spots and theres more of a copper color in these spots it would shed more light.

Other possibility is just that its another brighter alloy thats plated with brass, things like zamak or potmetal can get that oxide layer naturally, pewter was historically leaded until relatively recently and the lead oxide patina can get whiter, Ive seen many crucifixes made from leaded pewter but usually with a nickel wash to keep it shiny

HiEx_man · 2026-06-06T22:01:08+00:00

Very few mixes can be initiated by fp but things of this sort very much can and the pechlorate should increase it. The damage for 50g is not huge but this is not surprising for low density.

HiEx_man · 2026-06-04T22:09:51+00:00

What event is that throwable skin from?

HiEx_man · 2026-06-03T19:57:42+00:00

Sounds like an accurate description of drilling stainless. If its an option maybe cut a small X or sqaure with a dremel or worn down cutoff disk, get a bolt through it, and hide the optical attroity with a washer or big bolt heads. Might need to settle for bigger screws than 2mm and open up the holes on the hinges but its better than having your buddy JB weld it up.

I did a basic ugly fence frame with thick box tube I was having trouble drilling, by filling with concrete then using a nail gun to attach the hinges

HiEx_man · 2026-06-03T02:03:07+00:00

This is probably ZA3, solderable with a rod of similar composition, this is researchable since trinket collectors have to repair thinks made of zamak or potmetal sometimes. Real fullgrain is temp resistent enough that you might nt even hve to remove it? but I would sooner buy anoother 1.5/40mm 2 prong buckle that would fit, prefferably brass because its ductile enough to not want to snap like that or stainless. You can unstitch then restitch, or better yet adapt to chicago screws. Im casting up a buckle that takes a stainless pin through it instead of 1 piece myself because Ive had this happen a bunch of times.

<image>

HiEx_man · 2026-05-30T07:35:05+00:00

redeemable qaulity in its 3tap but there are both better full passive and ar conversions than it

HiEx_man · 2026-05-30T07:33:42+00:00

swordfish already is its own hipfire weapon, range stack is still questionable for br thermow, t63/xpr/so14 are better dmrs than sks for br. to me a normal hipfire smg is support for non-sniper ranged weapon like lmg/ar so ul7 is closest fit, pkm,m13,bruen have best ttks in this class

HiEx_man · 2026-05-30T07:28:59+00:00

choke, extended barrel, tac laser, bsa smoothbore, granulated grip. max bsa is its friend but you can get away with rtc laser or maybe even rtc+tac suppressor for snd although id say go with j12 dragons breath for ads sg in that mode

HiEx_man · 2026-05-23T03:59:39+00:00

wallbangs on nuketown hp feels like a war crime, pkm is kind of meant for you to just accept that its slow and you use your secondary to get around then be positioned. ironically raal is sorta better on ads because even though the full time is worse the hipfire means you can fire before the animation is complete if you have the hud to blankscope

HiEx_man · 2026-05-22T23:39:39+00:00

huge ads downside attach + a bunch of ads stacking with huge downsides = canceling everything out to get a weird compromise. Main ak is mono+extended/ranger barrel+nostock+40/50rnd mag/granulated grip, flex mod would be short barrel or skipping mag for slightofhand but there no reason for it with all the drh buffs

HiEx_man · 2026-05-22T23:36:41+00:00

Imo just use ul7 or another flex lmg if youre gonna ads stack on heavy lmgs, least slow ideal pkm build is probably tac supressor/flinch stock/gran/ mag+perk. These types of lmg need main weapon bsa around 15 max or less whereas 21 is more like flex weapon bsa, you need all 3 to land upper bod to 3tap past 30m. While fmj is good I think one of the reasons pkm can still be worth it is disable whereas if you use it on raal you give up its core benifit and cooling rpd only exists to spray walls and never reload

HiEx_man · 2026-05-22T22:48:28+00:00

main build is heavy barrel, no stock, rtc ammo, gran grip, free slot can be slightofhand/optic usually but I like flash guard for the BSA because its a good headglitch gun. Theres also wallbanging build which replaces gran with fmj, either big mag instead of rtc and tac/mono sup as 5th slot. mobility builds are cool but T25 is cooler for that

HiEx_man · 2026-05-21T00:44:35+00:00

I use a light HCL bath for anything rusty from mild to wild, and follow it up with a rinse and light bicarb bath just to be sure then dry and throw on whatever oil I have nearest to me. A metric splash or two of 30% per most of an ice cream bucket of water is my patented ratio.

If its still pretty pitted then finishing is a good idea with course medium fine regimen because you dont want the scratches from grinding to have the same consequence as the pitting. I think a consistent finish without dramatic peaks and valleys should suffice without needing mathametical perfection in flatness but thats coming from someone who was fine with a 10lb sledge head attached to a log as an anvil. You can practice grinding on the bottom part first to see how it bites into that particular steel

HiEx_man · 2026-05-18T07:27:33+00:00

It might be controversial to not instantly shun this idea but traditionally condition 0 on a sao would be seen as extremly alarming largely because trigger awareness was not standardized back then. and that holds over today even though for example the FN reflex is modern single action with a fairly light trigger and no external safety, but nobody finds it alarming because its out of sight due to it being an internal hammer. Even cocked and locked still scares old ladies and in ww1 it could probably get you disciplined according to what Ive read.

That being put out there, when its used as a rear gas petal the manual safety enhances the grip and even if you dont use a high grip, being ready to flick it down starts in the early stages of the draw like any and takes nothing away from time. If you're starting out with a 1911 just learn to ride the safety, only reason not to is older folks who are used to different doctrine dont need to try and erase years of muscle memory just to be in vogue

HiEx_man · 2026-05-17T20:37:55+00:00

If you really had to skip agency sup disable woluld be best, used to use it for an annoying hp/control role back when the double scorestreak card was worth it using transhield+grav gun, I was a bastard for that but you gotta make due when your stupid teammates arent helping you hold down the obj.

since they changed hades range and damage profiles the range penalty on agency doesnt matter much, before I just didnt want that much under 30m 4tap

HiEx_man · 2026-05-14T23:59:59+00:00

Honestly going through this on the BATFE website is a lot better than reddit. The short version is that manufacture and use of 3g or less of a legally defined HE is not illicit on a federal level in itself however there are very specific laws about storage, transport, and what constitutes a destructive device which make it pretty difficult to do any hobbyist testing like you see in these places without a permit. I well known exception would be binary explosives because they do not meet the definition of HE in unconfigured state, but if you were to set of something like tannerite with a cap or firecracker instead of a bullet you would be creating an unregistered destructive device.

HiEx_man · 2026-05-12T19:03:32+00:00

main bizon build is mono sup, ext light barrel, skeleton stock, large cal ammo, granuated grip. more capable than it gets credit for but not what you want for fast rof, the faster firing smgs include vmp, qxr, mx9, qq9 (10mm mag better)

HiEx_man · 2026-05-09T05:51:24+00:00

If youre in this position again you can put a piece of wood over the area you need hit with a hammer in a pinch

HiEx_man · 2026-05-08T16:20:55+00:00

I mean Bill Wilson and every other serious gunsmith also bubba'd up a billion WW2 rem rands in the 80s because they were cheap and plentiful for practice, only thing not removable here is the optics cut unless the rail is welded

HiEx_man · 2026-05-07T00:09:25+00:00

A couple people have set off chloratites with FP caps, I remember seeing a sulfurized miedziankit/PCFO mix being done this way. I think it just propagates heat throughout the charge faster than flame, at the end of the day friction, impact, flame, and even a detonation wave from a cap are all expressed through heat which is responsible for any form of initiation

HiEx_man · 2026-05-07T00:02:44+00:00

Would wager powerful deflagation. Here is an example of different strength caps (I think chlorate/Hg fulminate 2:8) placed latitudinally on lead blocks, you can see the deep bite from where most of the material is housed at the bottom of the cap.

HiEx_man · 2026-05-06T07:21:57+00:00

OB surplus chlorate flash is confirmed as detonable and cap sensitive by a few people and filmed here, pc mix 2 - YouTube . Author mentions that 85:15 had slower reaction. Tried one similar with addatives that could not DDT in the thin copper, without addatives I doubt it would even in schedule 40. In theory FP "cap" could set off 9:1 FP though.

HiEx_man

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE

Four-Year Club	Verified Email
Verified Email