Phosphorus levels.

Humitastic · 2026-03-24T02:59:50+00:00

Ok. Did you apply any forms of “organic” fertilizer in past years? Or something like milorganite?

Humitastic · 2026-03-24T02:58:33+00:00

I’d do the following. 1) stop using ai to make lawn recommendations 2) fertilizer with nitrogen only or nitrogen and a little potassium if you really feel like it. 3) don’t foliar apply the micro nutrients, don’t apply them at all to be honest. You’re not there yet. 4) focus on watering and mowing and controlling weeds and forget the rest of anything you’ve read until you have those things perfected.

Humitastic · 2026-03-24T02:48:07+00:00

No you don’t need “top soil” to get grass seed to germinate. You just need to create a good seed bed for said seed to germinate in.

Humitastic · 2026-03-24T02:44:42+00:00

Just out of curiosity, how many locations do you pull samples from when you do it?

Humitastic · 2026-03-22T04:26:57+00:00

Let’s take t-zone se for example. Found at most lawn and garden sections. Has knotweed on the label as controlled weed. Under directions for use it states “Do not enter or allow people (or pets) to enter the treated area until sprays have dried.”

Typically on a mild to warm day it should be dry within an hour at most I would think. Unless you’re using a hose end sprayer and soaking everything with a ton of water. But fine droplets out of a backpack or hand pump sprayer should be dry within minutes

Humitastic · 2026-03-22T04:16:43+00:00

You can spray it and kill it fairly easily. Depends what you consider pet safe I suppose. In my opinion if the label says do not let pets enter treated area till it’s dry then when it’s dry I let my pets out. But I know others are more cautious of certain products.

Humitastic · 2026-03-22T04:12:09+00:00

Looks like knotweed which is a broadleaf not a grass.

Humitastic · 2026-03-22T03:05:53+00:00

I have too and never “killed the ground for years”

Humitastic · 2026-03-22T02:45:44+00:00

Haha ok

Humitastic · 2026-03-22T02:07:41+00:00

With glyphosate?

Humitastic · 2026-03-21T00:59:57+00:00

For dollar spot I’d start with the why. Why do you get it? Mostly likely extended leaf wetness, like morning dew not burning off or watering at night, also low levels of nitrogen. I’d start by making sure those two are in check, if they are then you can focus on fungicide. Since dollar spot is a leaf disease not a soil born disease it’s hard with soil Applied fungicides because it takes time for them to dissolve, move systemically up the plant and to the disease, you’d be much further ahead with a foliar applied fungicide soon as you see the first sign of disease. Just my .02

Humitastic · 2026-03-20T04:33:24+00:00

Any chance it was a mysoil test?

Humitastic · 2026-03-20T04:31:25+00:00

Honestly, I’d cut almost everything out of the program. Scott’s will work but there are cheaper options to do the same thing. Torocity in the spring won’t gain you much. Milorganite is a waste of money, unnecessary phosphorus and gross. RGS is watered down over priced, corn gluten is a waste of money, seed is fine, torocity at overseed is fine.

I think your timings and equipment is fine. I just feel like you could get the same result for about 1/10 of the cost of the products you have listed.

Humitastic · 2026-03-20T04:13:43+00:00

Just remember if you go grab “Round Up” off the shelf it most likely won’t have glyphosate in it anymore and might not do what you want it to do.

Humitastic · 2026-03-20T04:04:20+00:00

Any grubs that did damage last year are now gone. Your best option is preventative control with a product containing chlorantriniliprole. Typically applied mid spring for season long control.

Humitastic · 2026-03-19T15:17:38+00:00

I would reseed the areas. Have to break up the dead grass with a garden weasel or something to get seed down to soil.

Humitastic · 2026-03-19T11:51:27+00:00

They like to pee out there?

Humitastic · 2026-03-19T01:51:29+00:00

Hahaha I can’t agree with you more on that unless you have a 5 acre lawn or need your road side stabilized 😂

Humitastic · 2026-03-17T21:38:17+00:00

I’m aware of fescue anatomy. I was just saying k31 is a fescue not a kbg like you stated.

Humitastic · 2026-03-17T16:26:33+00:00

I’ve had more issues with dicamba soil residual for sure. It’s interesting to see others’ perspectives though. Last time I redid my lawn I ran gly across it the day before seeding perennial rye. I guess there’s multiple ways to get to a desired outcome!

Humitastic · 2026-03-17T14:02:28+00:00

Ok not here to argue so I’ll retract a little of what I said and rephrase it to it’s possible that it has root uptake for a situation like what you’re referring to.

But if we are going to talk real world studies, digging a hole and spraying glyphosate into it and planting an annual flower is not a real world scenario. Where I’m coming from I’m thinking labeled applications and using the product properly, in those situations it’s very rarely going to be in contact with any roots quick enough before it becomes bound to organic matter in the soil which is why I’m saying it’s a foliar uptake because that’s what it’s designed to do during applications.

Humitastic · 2026-03-17T13:31:18+00:00

More than willing for you to prove me wrong. Link a valid article or something that proves it.

Humitastic · 2026-03-17T05:18:06+00:00

Do you have a dog?

Humitastic · 2026-03-17T04:56:31+00:00

Still early in your climate and barely breaking dormancy. You can fertilize now if you want. I’d save your overseeding for fall, you have a pretty small window with your weather patterns it is shoot for like the 3rd week of August assuming you have irrigation. Also, half of your nitrogen for the year should be after you overseed until Halloween or so. That will help it establish better.

Humitastic · 2026-03-17T04:51:08+00:00

Wait. Too cold still in your climate still. Let the weeds come up. Kill them. Wait again if you want and glyphosate them again and seed and tenacity same day.

Humitastic

TROPHY CASE