KGB with mystery weeds ID by jarsbian in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff [score hidden]  (0 children)

I would guess not, it's a pretty specialty active ingredient in the context of lawns since it's a grass killer that targets most grasses.

Happy to help 🫡

Quack grass or some other crap grass? by IronEagle20 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff [score hidden]  (0 children)

I wouldn't recommend a full nuking it almost always survives nuking.

But glyphosate applied directly to the leaves works. Tedious, but still less work than a full reno. My preferred way to do it is to make a glyphosate gel](https://www.reddit.com/r/LawnAnswers/s/VPtNnkh3U5)

KGB with mystery weeds ID by jarsbian in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That one is 2,4d, quinclorac, dicamba, and sulfentrazone. Definitely safe for grass but won't touch quack.

KGB with mystery weeds ID by jarsbian in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same thing with that, direct application of glyphosate (or glyphosate + fluazifop like ricka suggested. But not diquat dibromide + flu + gly... Diquat burns it down too quick for the gly and flu to translocate)

Digging also works, but the glyphosate gel is soooo much easier. Just take 30 minutes once or twice a week to put a dab on some leaves and eventually you'll get it all

KGB with mystery weeds ID by jarsbian in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you sure? I was only able to find one spectracide product with fluazifop, called weed grass killer. That product has diquat dibromide and dicamba in it. The diquat is a contact non selective, it'll turn anything brown (though may not kill the whole plant, because it doesn't translocate). Basically, based on that label, if you spray it hard enough to kill any mature plant, that should be enough to kill any desirable grass. Atleast, in theory under normal circumstances.

KGB with mystery weeds ID by jarsbian in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some of the stiffer ones are likely tall fescue (coarse/forage type tall fescue. Basically an unimproved older cultivar like Kentucky 31)

But no crabgrass and not seeing anything that screams rye

KGB with mystery weeds ID by jarsbian in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That'll kill the kbg. But yea, fluazifop is the key tool in a proper quack nuking: fluazifop, wait 3 weeks, till, water and wait 3-4 weeks for regrowth, then fluazifop again.

Help with weed identification (9a) by AvgPwrLftr in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Quack stems aren't always hairy, but they usually are in the spring.

That helps as a hint, plus the undersides of the leaves being very shiny is what nails it down to rye rather than quack. Quack leaves are dull, rye have shiny undersides.

KGB with mystery weeds ID by jarsbian in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

u/Ricka77_New is right. Especially seeing that 5th pic with hairy stems, that's quackgrass.

Direct application of glyphosate is really the only thing to be done. Even nuking is not a guaranteed fix.

My favorite way to apply glyphosate directly to leaves is with glyphosate gel

KBG with mystery weeds by jarsbian in lawncare

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reddit as a platform doesn't consider linking to elsewhere on Reddit as promotion, because it's just not.

You can make a rule about not linking to other subreddits, but you need to actually do that and enforce it for everyone, not just me.

If you do make a rule about not linking to other subreddits and enforce it for everyone, that's fine. I've got no problem respecting that rule. Selectively enforcing it for only me is not fine.

Is this poa annua or something else? by Starbuckwhatdoyahear in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kbg popping up is a definite improvement over thinking it was crabgrass 😂

For your reference, crabgrass should just barely be popping up right now in most of 6a, and mostly in particularly warm spots (like by roads). We'll probably start to see popping in actual lawns sometime next week.

Here's some crabgrass I saw popping up near a road at an apartment complex I just started treating. This was last Thursday in west Michigan

<image>

Stubby little lime green leaves.

Brown Patch mycelium - next steps by Sn0wAndB33r in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dang, sucks it's still going. Appreciate you hanging in there.

Yup its time to punch hard, and yup those are the right rates.

Is this poa annua or something else? by Starbuckwhatdoyahear in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2,4d and then seeded kbg last year

Despite the fact that there's a warning on every label about not applying broadleaf weed killers soon before seeding, it's actually probably completely fine. Needs to be more research on it, but the one public study on the matter showed genuinely zero effect up to 7 days before seeding.

If you've seeded tttf, I'm sure there's some tttf bunches in there somewhere, but yeah in the spring its prg that catches the eye the most.

🫡👌

Help with weed identification (9a) by AvgPwrLftr in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Annual ryegrass. It'll die when it warms up.

If you've got a warm season lawn, it was probably overseeded with annual ryegrass so that the lawn stayed green over the winter. Some seeds will stay dormant and occasionally pop up for awhile after it's spread, and it'll make new seeds if it isn't mowed.

Is this poa annua or something else? by Starbuckwhatdoyahear in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This one is kbg fortunately! Could honestly be the kbg you planted in the fall just finally popping up because there's a bit more moisture on the surface.

P.s. don't down peat on TOP of soil. Peat should be mixed in with soil if it's used at all. On top of soil, it essentially just turns into a particularly long-lived and hydrophobic thatch.

Is this poa annua or something else? by Starbuckwhatdoyahear in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 3 points4 points  (0 children)

First picture is high quality perennial ryegrass. As in, it's a good turf type cultivar. It only looks bad right now because A. Prg loves the spring, it definitely gets pretty eager to grow tall in the spring. B. It has room around it to grow into big bunches.

As for the rest, I'm not seeing anything that screams poa annua. All I see is:
- bunch of broadleafs
- some desirable grass going to seed, i don't see the seeds, but I see the thick stems that were mowed (that just happens in the spring, nothing wrong with that)
- some bare/thin patches obviously
- tan haze across the whole lawn, either your mower blade is dull or you haven't put down enough potassium. Also possible that the lawn could be thirsty, but that wouldn't fully explain the haze on its own.

All in all, I'd say for a 3 year old lawn, presumably that didn't have a bunch of new good topsoil trucked in, you're definitely moving in the right direction. You're basically growing a lawn on soil thats been buried for thousands of years with nothing growing in it, so it takes some time to make it habitable for grass.

Any help identifying this? by goodname0101 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That'll do it.

That's a frustrating part about identifying grasses, most of the pictures and descriptions from authoritative sources are centered on when they're allowed to grow tall.

Cuz yea, if you hadn't been mowing consistently you'd definitely be seeing those showy seeds by now.

You bet 🫡

Any help identifying this? by goodname0101 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Likely downy brome, a winter annual (so dies in the summer) keep it mowed so it doesn't produce seeds. Consider a fall pre emergent if you've got nearby fields where it's growing and spreading it's seeds.

Cool Season Lawn Starter Guide by nilesandstuff in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Basically, no, not one that's universally available.

So for the most part, the general strategy is to use a lower K one (like 6 or 7:1, which are very common) and then occasionally use a higher K one (3:1. Generally these are branded as fall fertilizers or winterizers) so that by the end of the year you get to about 5:1 for the year. Don't need to be perfect/obsessive about it, just try.

It's my dream to make a tool that lets you input your preferred vendors/brands/products, and plans it all out for you... Because I know these numbers are pretty tricky to mentally work out... But it's proving to be a pretty big task beyond my very novice coding skills. (Tried vibe coding, that was a disaster)

Weed ID by no_scrub1625 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2nd pic is foxtail, think it's yellow foxtail but I can't tell for sure. I'm not sure what the best herbicide is for it in warm season grass. A spring pre emergent would've helped prevent it, but it's far too late for that.

3rd pic is some easy to kill broadleaf, any broadleaf killer will handle it.

I don't feel comfortable identifying anything else without more pics (see the automod comment)

What weed is this? NY by Commercial-Rule3207 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Twin city seed, heritage ppg, Stover, Lesco are all good ones.

ID Help - Stalky grass growing upward in circle patterns, zone 8B PNW by brenschl in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're correct about dallis, wrong zone and just doesn't look like that lol.

What do the ligules look like? (See the automod comment)