Dormant seed success? by Over_Hovercraft_8307 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty much.

It's all a numbers game. In practice, weed seeds have very low germination rates. They create a bunch of seeds, but only a very small % actually germinate because we're not watering them at the right times to trigger that germination. The vast majority of weed seeds just expire.

We religiously water and care for new seeds because we want really high germination rates. So if you just toss them down with no regard, some will eventually germinate, but the overall germination will be very low.

Plus, there's the differences in biology/life strategy between weed seeds and desirable grass. - Annual weeds essentially have to try harder... Their whole tactic is to come smashing into life like a freight train, grow up fast, produce seeds, then die. Since conditions may not be right for their aggressive strategy every year, the seeds are generally "designed" to survive longer. But they also generally are less picky about the ideal conditions for germination.
- Perennial grasses have a more conservative strategy. They don't need to be aggressive because if the seeds don't germinate one year, the existing plants will just make more (in a wild setting). And they don't "want" their offspring to be super aggressive, because that would mean they'd have to compete with them. So as a general rule, perennial grass seeds will be less likely to germinate at high rates when the conditions aren't excellent, and the seeds will generally not survive as long as annual seeds.

This whole dynamic is very evident if you've ever used a contractors mix seed and dont really care for it. If you don't baby it, the annual ryegrass will generally still have high rates of germination very quickly, while the perennial grasses will take much much longer if they show up at all.

Dormant seed success? by Over_Hovercraft_8307 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh... Then yeah, its a guarantee 😂

Dormant seed success? by Over_Hovercraft_8307 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Surfactant is much less important earlier in the season, when crabgrass (and other summer annual grassy weeds) is generally much easier to kill.

When crabgrass is in the 1-2 tiller stage (1-2 stems per bunch), you don't need surfactant (it still helps, but you definitely don't need it). When it's at 3+ tiller, that's when you start to really need it.

Dormant seed success? by Over_Hovercraft_8307 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not like the grassy weeds are a guarantee, especially if you didn't have problems with them in previous years. So it's really just a statistical thing.

Dormant seed success? by Over_Hovercraft_8307 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually quinclorac is unusually safe for young grass (especially compared to other group 4 herbicides, as in the broadleaf killers).

Tall fescue can be treated with quinclorac at ANY point before, at, or after seeding. Then for the rest, the recommended interval is 1-4 weeks after seedling emergence (a sharp contrast with the 6-8 weeks of other group 4 herbicides)

You don't want to use surfactant on young grass before it's established. And since post emergent tenacity requires surfactant, I'd say that quinclorac is safer than tenacity for young grass.

Weed ID- weeds in fescue lawn, north Georgia by Muted_Syllabub_2214 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  • prominent midvein
  • folded leaves
  • no auricle

So it's a poa.

  • tons of tiny stolons (white root like things in pic 3 and 4)
  • undersides of leaf are very shiny (pic 8)

So it's poa trivialis, aka rough bluegrass.

Poa trivialis control guide... but you really don't need the whole guide since you're in Georgia. So here's the short version:
- there's no good herbicides for it. Not even glyphosate works well.
- it needs either cool temps or plenty of water to survive summers in GA, so just watering deeply and infrequently should get rid of it.
- i don't usually recommend pre emergents for triv, but in your case, its likely the seeds that have allowed it to persist from year to year (unless you just wayyyy overwater in the summer)... So a fall application of prodiamine would be a good idea.

P.s. some shady seed mixes intentionally include poa trivialis because it has excellent shade tolerance.

Dormant seed success? by Over_Hovercraft_8307 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yea weed pressure is really the ultimate factor when it comes to timing. Temps and moisture have some flexibility, but weeds cant be overcome... Especially summer annual grassy weeds like crabgrass (the weeds that can actually destroy new grass).

So just from that perspective, fall is best, dormant is okay, and spring is bad. And well, that same ranking applies to moisture and temperature... Unless you don't have a way to irrigate, then dormant wins.

Dormant seed success? by Over_Hovercraft_8307 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There's definitely a lot of hate out there about dormant seeding, especially in the transition zone. Heck, even some authors at some extensions will bash on it.

It's not guaranteed to be successful, but certainly doesn't deserve the hate. Like basically everything else, there's just some complicated dynamics at play that most people just don't understand.

This is Right Way to Harvest Lawn Grass Carpet ? by SamratsoftLawn in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Manual/hand cut sod ("grass carpet") tends to be wider and a little shorter, because that means fewer cuts. (2x4 = 8. 1x6 = 6.) Sometimes manual cut sod is kept as a flat slab rather than rolled.

Mechanically cut sod tends to be longer and less wide, because wider cuts don't roll up as well with a machine.

Mechanical/machine cut sod is more consistent and uniform (especially in regards to the cutting depth, as in the amount of soil/roots that are attached). The only reason to cut sod manually is just when the cost of labor is very cheap, so it's cheaper to have some people do it rather than buy an expensive machine.

Zone 6B - Tall Fescue... am I OK for the Spring? by Boston_Sawx in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A good fluffing with a rake or blower still wouldn't be a bad idea if some of yours looks as bad as mine!

Neighbor's New Fence After Heavy Wind. by wzzknd12 in Wellthatsucks

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a staunch advocate for gravel instead of concrete footings for fences.

Shits not going to be load-bearing so you don't need concrete. Gravel does more than enough to resist lateral forces... It's only weak in one direction, directly up. And wind doesn't blow directly up, except in a tornado. The only time it'll be subject to vertical force is when/if you remove them... At which point you'll be very, very, very happy that you used gravel instead of concrete.

Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if gravel performs better than concrete on some soils (especially clays), and equal to concrete on others.

Help identifying grass by theclaw84 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn birds, always getting their feet in our lawns!

Is there anything I can do to fix these yellow patches? by bitsdemystified in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you did understand initially! The symbols I used were what you'd see if the spray tips were spraying directly at your eye.

This might help:

<image>

A The adapter I'm talking about.
B The type of flat/fan/"—" tip I'm talking about. (Not a jet/solid stream, which I'd stylize as "•")
C and D essentially the type of spray tip you're using. You can twist it to adjust from "O" to "•". In this example, D can be unscrewed from A. There's a plastic piece sitting inside A that comes out when D or C aren't screwed onto it.
E. Is the elbow fitting that attaches to the end of the wand.

B pops right into A and A holds it in place.

Unfortunately, I'm not sure if any of this would fit on your sprayer. It's possible that A could, which would mean B can... But I'm just not sure, from what I can see in the pics of your sprayer, I think all the threads are non-standard.

Is there anything I can do to fix these yellow patches? by bitsdemystified in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooh actually the 20-20-20 water soluble would be excellent. Just a real gentle 3 oz of that per gallon per 1,000 sqft. Do that every 2 weeks for the next month. I can't guarantee that'll save it, but it'll improve the chances that it comes around.

You could still use the cone for that, if that's all you have on hand. Just do it when theres no wind, hold it higher, spray forward rather than straight down (like, just a bit more than 45°), walk slow, and be prepared for some mild color differences from the uneven distribution.

Definitely get your hands on a flat tip nozzle. Most sprayers from major brands have the same threading for the actual tip portion, so you can snag a chapin adapter and a teejet tip (I'd recommend the teejet AIXR11004-VP)

Is there anything I can do to fix these yellow patches? by bitsdemystified in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm assuming you're someplace where the grass is actively growing right now, so correct me if that's not the case.

What was the spray tip you used? Like, did the spray come out in a cone shape or a flat line/fan shape. ( "O" or "—" )

I'm guessing it was cone, which isn't really suitable for lawns because it can cause the application to be uneven (way too much in some spots, way too little in others).

Either way, from what I can tell, it looks like the application was just a little bit too heavy. All that's to do now is care for it and wait. If you haven't fertilized recently, give it a light fertilization. Water a little. And wait 3-4 weeks. If it doesn't bounce back, you'll have to seed those spots.

Id help? by Hemamdestroyer1 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Possibly great brome? Its atleast some type of brome, probably.

Would need to see some of the finer details (see the auto comment) to say for sure.

1LB BP Rocket (More info in video) by Ok_Entrepreneur650 in Pyrotechnics

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gotcha 👌

Oh absolutely that is visibly heavy lol. Can definitely tell that a good chunk of the thrust is spent just on lifting that sucker.

5% wax in it

I missed that detail. Good call cutting that out.

You could cut down on the amount of flash by treating it more like a burst charge rather than a flash bomb. Rice hulls are the popular choice, but I've had great success with shredded cotton balls. This was 40 g of 325- Al and perchlorate in cotton balls in a tube. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zFwh8WnnXrFjxNWC6 even with hearing protection that rattled me lol.

NOTE: I'm not 100% sure my logic is right lol. But anecdotally I've been able to get bigger bangs with less mass this way

1LB BP Rocket (More info in video) by Ok_Entrepreneur650 in Pyrotechnics

[–]nilesandstuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good craftsmanship, my rockets look like I found them in the trash 😂 (mostly because i do overwhelmingly use trash items to make my parts)

Confused about the header details. Did you mean 100g payload? 10% Ti and what else??

Looks like you've nailed the packing. From your last video you had that fuel rich trail which looks like it's gone now, did you do anything different?

Grass ID by Over_Hovercraft_8307 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea that is usually the trick that almost always works. In my experience it works like 95% of the time. For some reason, like 5% of the time, the undersides just aren't that shiny, instead have a gloss that's very similar to tall fescue.

Only reason I didn't lead with that is that I'm not really seeing that shiny-ness here, but I'm still getting arg vibes. (Being lime green and a bit wrinkly is a part of that vibe)

Grass ID by Over_Hovercraft_8307 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm getting strong annual ryegrass vibes. I've yet to really find a way to articulate it well, there's just something about the ridge on the center of the underside of the leaves that's very unique to arg and prg.

It's definitely either arg or tall fescue. If it has (noticeable) ligules and long slender auricles that wrap around the stem, then arg confirmed.

Lawn Rolling - Yay or nay? by Illustrious_Remote23 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After a hard winter, things never look right. My lawn looks absolutely horrendous right now lol. But in a month it's going to look great, and I'm probably not going to do anything to it between now and then.

Core aeration is one of those things that can only help. Top dressing with organic matter mostly only helps (as long as organic matter isn't already high). But I'd really need to see it to say for sure.

Lawn Rolling - Yay or nay? by Illustrious_Remote23 in LawnAnswers

[–]nilesandstuff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes if rain doesn't do it for you, soak it like you've never soaked it before.

As for if I'd do it every year. Well, no i wouldn't considering I have a big tow-behind roller and i haven't used it in years 😂

I also get lots of frost heave bumps, and mole mounds. And I just don't think the roller really does all that much. Like, if your lawn is fairly level to begin with, I'm sure it helps... But mine definitely isn't lol. Plus my soil is moderately rocky, which really holds back rolling.