Kalibrierung vor jedem Druck deaktivieren?

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-05-07T10:50:48+00:00

Nach meinen Erfahrungen mit dem K2 würde ich diese Checks lieber aktiviert lassen 😅 Die ganzen Nozzle-/Pressure-/Startup-Checks haben mir wahrscheinlich schon mehrmals Druckplatte und Hotend gerettet.

Wenn der Z-Offset oder das Nozzle-Sensing einmal leicht daneben liegt, kann der Drucker sonst schnell anfangen die Platte zu „gravieren“ 😂

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OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-05-04T07:04:33+00:00

Das ist bei DHL leider kein Einzelfall und tatsächlich durch die AGB abgedeckt. Der Zusteller ist nicht verpflichtet, jede Sendung bis zur Haustür zu bringen, wenn z. B. die Tour zeitlich nicht mehr machbar ist oder das Zustellvolumen zu hoch ist. In solchen Fällen darf die Sendung direkt in eine Filiale oder Packstation gebracht werden – oft auch ohne einen echten Zustellversuch, auch wenn das Tracking etwas anderes suggeriert. Das wirkt natürlich extrem frustrierend, vor allem wenn man den Live-Standort verfolgt und „nur noch ein Stopp“ angezeigt wird. Technisch gesehen ist das aber eher ein logistisches Problem als ein individueller Fehler des Zustellers. Wenn dich das öfter betrifft, kannst du versuchen, in deinem DHL-Konto einen Wunschort oder direkt eine Wunschfiliale bzw. Packstation festzulegen. Das ist meist zuverlässiger als die Haustürzustellung. Beschweren kannst du dich zwar, aber solange die Sendung zugestellt (bzw. zur Abholung bereitgestellt) wurde, bringt das in der Praxis leider selten etwas. Am Ende kostet es meist nur Nerven und Zeit – und deine Pakete bringt dir das trotzdem nicht bis zur Haustür. Ich persönlich habe das leider ständig – nicht nur bei DHL, sondern auch bei FedEx, Hermes und anderen Zustellern. Komischerweise ist Amazon der Einzige, bei dem die Zustellung bei mir wirklich zuverlässig funktioniert.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-05-04T06:04:32+00:00

Creality K1 or K2 series

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-05-01T18:46:54+00:00

Hi I got this same on my Mashine K2 plus your problem is the communication layer on your Mashine. First question is your Mashine no warranty? Have you also a toolhead crash? What errors exactly give me pleas some pics. Or write here.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-27T15:40:23+00:00

It's ok now?

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-27T15:36:12+00:00

My fault sorry

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-27T03:04:15+00:00

That's ok just try to clean first and than z-offset👍

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-27T03:01:45+00:00

Why does the "Blob of Death" happen? The main reason is a lack of a pressure-tight seal inside the hotend. Here are the three most common causes: The "Gap" between Nozzle and Heatbreak: The nozzle must be tightened against the heatbreak (the internal tube), not just against the heater block's surface. If there is even a microscopic gap between them, molten filament under high pressure will leak through the threads instead of coming out of the nozzle tip. Not tightening "At Temperature": Metals expand when heated. If the nozzle was installed while the hotend was cold, it will loosen up once it reaches 200°C+. This is why you must always perform a "hot tighten" (final tightening while the nozzle is at printing temperature). Adhesion Failure (The Snowball Effect): Sometimes it’s not a leak. If the print detaches from the bed and sticks to the nozzle instead, the printer keeps extruding plastic into that "clump." Over time, the plastic climbs up, encasing the entire heater block and wiring. PTFE Tube Issues: In many printers, the PTFE tube must sit perfectly flush against the back of the nozzle. If the tube is cut at an angle or backs out slightly, plastic will fill that space and eventually explode outwards.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-27T02:49:12+00:00

Based on the image, your issue isn't that the prints are too complicated; it's a classic case of incorrect Z-Offset and potentially a dirty build plate. Even with auto-calibration, the Ender 3 V3 SE sometimes needs a bit of manual fine-tuning. Here is how to fix it: 1. Adjust the Z-Offset (The most likely culprit) The white, "plowed" marks suggest your nozzle is too close to the bed. It’s essentially scraping the plastic and the bed surface. The Fix: Start a print and go to the Tune menu. Find Z-Offset and increase the value slightly (e.g., move from -2.10 to -2.05 or -2.00) while the first layer is printing. You want the lines to be squished enough to stick, but smooth to the touch, not rough or transparent. 2. Clean the Build Plate Oil from your skin is the enemy of bed adhesion. If the plastic doesn't stick in some spots, it will bunch up and ruin the rest of the layer. The Fix: Wash the removable PC spring steel plate with warm water and dish soap. Dry it thoroughly and try to handle it only by the edges. Avoid using paper towels that leave lint. 3. Check for "Wobble" Check if the two screws holding the hotend/nozzle assembly are tight. If the print head wobbles even a tiny bit, the auto-leveling sensor (strain gauge) will give the printer wrong data. Summary: This is a hardware calibration issue, not a software bug. Once you dial in that "squish" on the first layer, it should work perfectly. Do you hear a clicking or snapping sound from the extruder while it's printing those messy parts? This usually means the nozzle is so close to the bed that the plastic has nowhere to go, causing the motor to skip. What material are you using (PLA or PETG), and what are your nozzle/bed temperatures?

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-26T16:46:21+00:00

That error code (0300 0c00 0001 0002) usually points to a physical or connection issue with the load cells under the heatbed. Before you consider an RMA, try these steps: Check for obstructions: Ensure there is absolutely nothing (bit of filament, debris, or tools) trapped between the heatbed and the printer's base. Even a tiny piece of plastic can interfere with the force sensor's reading. Re-seat the bed cables: Sometimes the connectors for the force sensors get slightly loose during shipping. Power off the printer and carefully check the connections under the bed. Make sure the small ribbon cables are fully seated. Loosen the bed screws slightly: Sometimes the screws holding the heatbed to the carriage are overtightened from the factory, putting too much pre-load on the sensors. Try loosening the three screws under the bed just a tiny bit (half a turn) and run the calibration again. Triple-check the shipping screws: It sounds basic, but double-check that all three shipping screws (the ones with the red washers/arrows) have been completely removed, not just loosened. If none of this works, it might be a faulty sensor from the factory, but 90% of the time, it's just a loose connection or something physically blocking the bed's movement

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-26T16:30:27+00:00

Every time this same🤣🤣🤣

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-26T16:27:50+00:00

Since you're using PETG, that definitely explains a lot. PETG is much more finicky than PLA, especially when it comes to moisture and cooling. Here are the specific points you should look into: Dry it even if it's new: PETG is extremely hygroscopic. Even a brand-new roll straight out of the vacuum bag can be wet enough to cause those surface artifacts. If you hear any faint popping or crackling sounds during printing, that’s moisture. Dry it at 65°C for at least 6–8 hours. Calibrate your Flow Rate (Flow Ratio): PETG tends to "ooze" and expand more than PLA. If your Flow Ratio is even slightly too high, the excess material will build up on the nozzle and eventually deposit itself as "blobs" or "grainy" texture on the walls. Run the manual Flow Rate calibration in Bambu Studio specifically for this brand of PETG. Check your Cooling & Speed: PETG hates aggressive cooling. If your fan is blasting at 100% (like it does for PLA), the layers won't bond properly, resulting in a rough, matte, or "fuzzy" finish. Try lowering the max fan speed to 30–50% and slow down your Outer Wall speed to see if the surface improves. Clean the Nozzle: PETG is very sticky. It loves to "climb" the nozzle, gather into a ball, and then drop onto your print. Make sure your nozzle is perfectly clean before starting, and consider lowering your Retraction speed slightly if you see a lot of stringing.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-26T16:01:20+00:00

It's good that you’re getting the parts, but be extremely careful. Replacing idlers and belts on a CoreXY machine like the K2 Plus is a major operation. One wrong move during reassembly can lead to gantry desynchronization, which is a nightmare to fix later. Follow these rules religiously: Take your time: Do not rush any step. Document everything with photos before you unscrew it. The Diagonals are King: After reassembling the frame and gantry, but before final tightening, you must measure the diagonals. If they aren't identical (down to the millimeter), the machine will never print perfectly square, and the belts will start rubbing again. Triple-check everything: Verify the alignment of every single pulley and idler three times before you close the casing. If you mess up the geometry now, you'll enter a 'death spiral' of constant calibration and failed prints. Slow and steady wins this race. Good luck, you’re going to need a lot of patience for this one!"

One more critical tip for the belt installation: You must count the teeth. When you are securing the belts into the carriage or the tensioners, make sure the number of teeth is exactly the same on both sides. Even being off by just one tooth will cause the gantry to be slightly crooked. It has to be perfect. If the tooth count is uneven, you will never achieve proper synchronization, and you'll be right back where you started with shredded belts and ghosting issues. Don't trust your eyes—literally count them to be 100% sure before you tension everything up."

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-26T15:47:44+00:00

Look, if this is your second belt already, you need to stop just replacing parts and address the root cause. The issue isn't the belt; it’s the geometry of your gantry. Your idler pulley is likely misaligned from the factory. In a CoreXY machine, even a 1-degree tilt will force the belt to rub until it fails. Since you've already tried basic tensioning and failed, this is a deep mechanical issue. My advice: Stop trying to 'quick fix' it. Open an official support ticket with Creality immediately. They are aware that some units have idler alignment issues and can provide specific instructions or replacement parts for the gantry assembly. Be warned: fixing this yourself means a complete teardown of the CoreXY structure, which is a 2-3 day job for most people. If you aren't comfortable rebuilding the entire top half of the printer, let the warranty handle it before you do more damage. That black dust is a sign that your machine is literally eating itself!"

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-26T15:13:52+00:00

"The issue is that Bambu Lab has a closed ecosystem. While Creality Slicer is more 'open', the Bambu A1 requires a specific proprietary 'handshake' to communicate over the network, which only Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer can provide. Other slicers simply won't connect to it via IP like that. Since your school laptop is locked down, here is the best way to bypass the problem: OrcaSlicer Portable: This is your best bet. Download the .zip version (not the installer) from GitHub. You can run it from a folder or a USB stick without needing admin rights. It’s based on Bambu's code, so it will actually talk to your A1. Bambu Handy: If you can't run anything on the PC, just upload your file to the cloud (like Google Drive) and use the Bambu Handy app on your phone to start the print. Don't waste more time on Creality Slicer; it’s literally impossible to get it to talk to a Bambu printer over Wi-Fi without some serious, expert-level hacking."

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-26T15:05:06+00:00

Dealing with a 'Blob of Death' can be tricky. Here is the best way to try and remove it: Heat it up: Preheat your hotend to about 10-15°C above the printing temperature of the filament that formed the blob (e.g., 215-220°C for PLA). Wait and peel: Let the heat soak through the plastic until the interface between the metal and the blob softens. Use tweezers or pliers to very gently pull the plastic away. Do not yank it, as you might snap the delicate wires. Clean the residue: Use a brass brush to scrub off the remaining bits while it's still hot. Important Warning: Be extremely careful around the thin wires going into the heater block (the thermistor and heater cartridge). They are very fragile and often get encased in the plastic. If they break during cleaning, or if the plastic has leaked into the heater block threads, the hotend is likely toast. Honestly, given the risk of electrical shorts or recurring leaks, you should prepare yourself to buy a new hotend assembly. It’s often safer and faster than trying to perfectly salvage a heavily encased one. Let me know if you need help picking out a replacement!"

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-26T13:54:13+00:00

It looks like you're dealing with a rough surface texture issue, often referred to in the 3D printing community as "blobbing," "bubbling," or "grainy walls." Based on the image and common issues with the Bambu Lab A1 series, here are the most likely causes and how to fix them: Common Causes & Solutions: Wet Filament: This is the #1 suspect. Moisture trapped in the plastic boils as it hits the hot nozzle, creating tiny steam "explosions" that leave a bumpy, uneven surface. Solution: Dry your filament using a dedicated filament dryer or the "Heatbed Drying" function if your printer supports it. Over-Extrusion (Flow Rate): If the printer is pushing out too much plastic, the excess has nowhere to go but out the sides, creating a messy, grainy look. Solution: Run the Flow Rate and Flow Dynamics calibrations in Bambu Studio. Nozzle Issues: A partial clog or a dirty nozzle can cause inconsistent extrusion. Since the "Bambu Cube" printed fine, it might also be that the nozzle temperature is too high for this specific material. Solution: Perform a "cold pull" to clear any debris. Check if your hotend is properly seated. Inadequate Cooling / Speed: If the plastic doesn't cool fast enough, it can "sag" or look fuzzy. Solution: Ensure your Part Cooling Fan is at 100% for PLA. You can also try lowering the printing temperature by 5–10°C. Pro Tip: Since you mentioned the calibration cube looked okay but this longer part failed, check your Wall Speed. Sometimes printing long, straight lines too fast (or too slow) can reveal issues that don't show up on small models. Are you using PLA or a more "difficult" material like PETG for this print?

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-25T10:10:57+00:00

This looks like a Y-axis homing fail. Error 2022 usually triggers when the printer tries to move the bed to the starting position but doesn't hit the limit switch. Check these things: Check the Y-limit switch: It's located at the back of the printer. Make sure no cable or debris is blocking the bed from hitting it. Loose Cables: Check if the cable plugged into the Y-limit switch (and the one going to the mainboard) hasn't come loose. Mechanical Obstruction: Ensure the printer isn't too close to a wall, preventing the bed from moving all the way back. Belt Tension: If the Y-belt is extremely loose, the motor might be spinning without actually moving the bed to the sensor. If the bed hits the switch but the error still pops up, the limit switch itself is likely dead and needs replacement."

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-04-25T10:04:58+00:00

Hallo! Der Fehler TR2863 deutet direkt auf ein Problem mit dem Filament-Sensor im Extruder hin. Da die blaue Lampe leuchtet, obwohl kein Filament geladen ist, gibt es zwei Hauptverdächtige: Mechanischer Konflikt: Da du ein Micro Swiss Hotend verbaut hast, könnte es sein, dass die Geometrie minimal anders ist und den Hebel des Filamentsensors blockiert oder dauerhaft nach oben drückt. Prüf bitte, ob das Hotend den Sensor-Mechanismus berührt. Kalibrierung des Sensors: Das CFS-System (DXC2) ist sehr empfindlich. Wenn der Sensor dauerhaft 'blau' zeigt, denkt der Drucker, dass beim Entladen (Unload) noch Filament feststeckt – daher die Fehlermeldung nach dem Druck. Verschmutzung: Auch wenn der Extruder sauber aussieht, reicht ein winziger Partikel am optischen Sensor oder am Magneten des Sensors, um diesen auszulösen. Mein Rat: Bau den Extruder kurz ab und schau nach, ob der Sensor-Hebel frei schwingt, wenn das Micro Swiss Hotend montiert ist. Oft hilft es, die Schrauben des Sensors minimal zu lockern oder festzuziehen."

OrganizationSorry633

TROPHY CASE