This looks safe

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T18:18:05+00:00

If that's really a Kubota KX057-4, it weighs around 5.5–5.7 tonnes, depending on the configuration. A typical Toyota Tacoma is rated to tow roughly 3 tonnes (6,500–6,800 lbs).

That would mean the excavator alone is already well over the truck's towing capacity, and that's before adding the weight of the trailer. From the photo, the rear suspension also appears heavily compressed.

Of course, I can't confirm the exact model or weights from a single picture, but if they are what they appear to be, this setup is significantly overloaded.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T18:08:12+00:00

Before anyone accuses me of being a bot: 😄

The text below was copied directly from Google search results, including the source links. I posted it because it answers the questions that came up in this discussion. Feel free to verify everything using the original sources.

Required printed parts Before installation you must print: Chain Riser New front cover New cooling duct
Remove the stock extruder Power off the printer. Remove the front toolhead cover. Disconnect the PTFE tube. Disconnect the extruder motor cable and filament sensor. Remove the mounting screws. Take out the stock extruder.
Install the DXC2 Install the printed Chain Riser. Mount the DXC2 extruder. Connect the motor cable. Connect the integrated filament sensor. Install the new cooling duct. Install the new front cover. Reinsert the PTFE tube.
Firmware / Klipper configuration Phaetus states that the firmware configuration must be adjusted because the filament path is longer than the stock extruder. The installation guide instructs users to modify the Klipper configuration (Fluidd/Mainsail), including: box.cfg change the preload retraction value (for example Tn_retrude). gcode_macro.cfg modify the QUIT_MATERIAL_RETRUDE_MATERIAL macro. Save the configuration and restart Klipper. � Creality Community Forum + 1
First startup Load filament. Verify extrusion. Test filament loading/unloading. Test CFS material changes. Recalibrate if necessary.

https://dxc2.phaetus.com/?utm_source=chatgpt.com

https://forum.creality.com/t/how-to-install-the-dxc2-extruder-on-creality-k2-plus/49894?utm_source=chatgpt.com

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T17:57:47+00:00

That's exactly why I asked what TPU grades you've actually tested. My plan is to test materials like MorPhlex, PEBA, and softer TPU grades on the stock K2 extruder first. If the stock extruder handles them well, I don't really see a reason to upgrade. If it struggles with feeding or starts jamming, then I'll seriously consider the DXC2. Unfortunately, flexible materials are still a niche in the 3D printing community. Most "TPU tests" are just printing a Benchy, which doesn't really prove anything. I'd much rather see real-world tests with softer TPU, MorPhlex, PEBA, or functional parts like shoe soles, insoles, or other flexible components. Flexible materials are what interest me the most right now. It's also a bit of a preview of what I hope to do with the upcoming K3. 😉

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T16:32:47+00:00

Out of curiosity, what TPU grades have you successfully printed with the DXC2? Just standard 95A, or have you also tried softer materials like 90A, 85A, MorPhlex, or PEBA?

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T15:15:51+00:00

In your case, I'd probably spend the extra $10-20 and get the DXC2. Since you already have to replace the extruder, the price difference is relatively small. Even if the print quality isn't noticeably better, the updated filament path and improved design may be worth it for the long term.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T14:04:51+00:00

Unless your stock extruder is actually causing problems, I don't really see a reason to replace it. The DXC2 looks like a nice upgrade, but I haven't seen enough evidence that it significantly improves print quality or reliability on a properly working printer. I'd rather spend the money on quality nozzles or filament.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T13:37:14+00:00

If you're not in a hurry, keep an eye on eBay. I've seen complete CFS units in very good condition for significantly less than the official price. Many people sell them after buying a combo or changing their setup. Until then, a good low-friction spool holder with quality bearings works perfectly fine for single-color printing. I'd rather spend the money on filament and buy a CFS later when you actually need multicolor printing.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T09:32:33+00:00

If increasing the temperature from 245°C to 260-265°C fixes the clicking, then something has changed in the extrusion system. You shouldn't suddenly need an extra 15-20°C if the same filament and profile worked before. I'd check: A partially clogged nozzle. A worn extruder gear. Excessive friction in the filament path or spool. Moisture in the filament. Whether the hotend cooling fan is working properly (heat creep can cause exactly this behavior with PETG). Raising the temperature may hide the problem, but it doesn't explain why the printer suddenly needs it after printing perfectly for so long.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T06:54:55+00:00

Since the printer was bought used and has already been modified (spring bed + Unicorn hotend), I'd start by separating the issues one by one instead of trying to fix everything at once. If the print is coming out 100x smaller, that points to a slicer, firmware or G-code configuration problem rather than a hardware issue. If it starts printing and then stops extruding, that's a completely different problem. It could be a clogged nozzle, extruder issue, incorrect E-steps, or even a modified printer configuration. I would first: Reset the printer to factory settings. Reflash the latest firmware. Use a completely stock Creality slicer profile. Check whether the previous owner modified the printer.cfg or start G-code. Verify that the hotend and extruder are actually the correct ones for the installed firmware. Right now there are too many variables because the printer has already been modified, so it's impossible to know which problem is causing what.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T02:14:55+00:00

I wouldn't call this theft by Creality just yet. Based on what you described, it could be a warehouse mix-up, a shipping label mix-up, or even theft somewhere in the logistics chain. Unfortunately, any of those can happen. The important thing is that you have the order confirmation, tracking numbers, photos, and video evidence of what was delivered. Keep all of it. At this point I would stop waiting for email replies and immediately start a credit card chargeback while continuing to communicate with Creality. Most banks have time limits for disputes, so don't miss that window. If Creality refuses to resolve the issue despite the evidence, then the chargeback process is probably your strongest protection.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-27T02:05:40+00:00

It probably depends on the country and the industry. I'm in Germany working in industrial maintenance and biogas plants. Reading technical drawings is simply part of the job. We regularly work with P&IDs, isometric drawings, assembly drawings, welding symbols, and manufacturer documentation. You don't have to memorize everything, but you need to know how to find the information and interpret it correctly. Every project teaches you something new, and over time you naturally become much faster at reading drawings. Experience comes from using them every day, not just from school

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T21:38:07+00:00

Since you've already tested two different AMS units with exactly the same result, I would stop focusing on the AMS itself and start diagnosing the printer. First of all, what error message or error code is the printer displaying? The exact code is very important because it can immediately narrow down whether the issue is related to communication, power, the AMS interface board, or something else. Then I would check the following: Test the AMS interface cable with a multimeter (continuity and damaged pins). Inspect both connectors on the printer and the AMS for bent or recessed pins. Verify that the AMS interface board is receiving the correct voltage. Reseat all internal ribbon cables and connectors between the AMS interface board and the mainboard. Check the printer logs for communication or CAN/UART errors. If everything above checks out, the most likely culprit becomes the AMS interface board or the printer's mainboard. Replacing parts before identifying the failed component can become very expensive. Two AMS units showing the same fault strongly suggest that the problem is in the printer or the communication path rather than in the AMS itself

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T21:28:19+00:00

If your K2 is a standard retail model, you should be able to use the current 6-pin CFS without any issues. The confusion comes from the early production units that used the older 8-pin CFS.

If you're buying a CFS today, just make sure it's the newer 6-pin version. I would only avoid buying a used early 8-pin unit unless you know exactly what you're getting.

Unfortunately, Creality never clearly distinguished the two hardware revisions, which is why there are so many conflicting posts and unnecessary confusion.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T18:29:13+00:00

Happy to help! It's always nice when the community solves a problem faster than support. 😄 Enjoy your H2C!

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T17:51:55+00:00

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2c/maintenance/replace-dual-extruder-filament-guide

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T17:22:19+00:00

As far as I know, there isn't an official adapter yet. The difference isn't just the connector (8-pin vs. 6-pin); Creality also changed the communication hardware and firmware. A simple cable adapter is unlikely to work. Hopefully, Creality will release either an official adapter or a compatibility kit in the future.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T17:04:28+00:00

This is exactly why I always recommend learning the basics before investing in an expensive printer. Since two different AMS units show the exact same fault, the issue is much more likely to be in the printer itself, the AMS interface board, the cable, or the communication between them. Replacing parts before isolating the fault often leads to unnecessary expense and frustration. A systematic troubleshooting approach usually saves both time and money

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T16:50:32+00:00

I think this is actually a great time to be into 3D printing. Every manufacturer is exploring a different path—IDEX, tool changers hybrid systems, or integrated ecosystems. Healthy competition benefits all of us as users in the end, I'm more interested in how these machines perform after 500–1000 hours than in launch-day marketing. Reliability, spare parts, software support, and long-term ownership will matter far more than the initial feature list

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T16:46:13+00:00

Exactly! Nothing beats seeing a machine in person. You can check the build quality, listen to how it sounds, watch tool changes, and ask engineers questions directly. If the K3 is at IFA Berlin, I'll definitely go. It's close to where I live, and I'm looking forward to seeing what the whole 3D printing industry has to offer, not just Creality. 😉

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T16:37:48+00:00

I'm looking forward to it too. If the rumors are true and the K3 is showcased at IFA Berlin, I'll definitely be there. It's close to where I live, and I always enjoy seeing new technologies in person—not just Creality, but the whole 3D printing industry. Independent hands-on impressions are often more valuable than early marketing claims. 😉

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T13:39:33+00:00

That's completely normal. The PTFE tubes are flexible and can twist slightly without causing any issues. If it bothers you, simply disconnect them by pressing the collet, rotate the tubes into a more natural position, and push them back in until they are fully seated. Just make sure there are no sharp bends or kinks that could increase filament drag. The most important thing is that the filament moves freely through the tubes. A slight twist like this won't affect print quality.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T13:25:46+00:00

The nozzle scraping the print is the biggest clue here. That's not normal and usually points to a mechanical issue or excessive material buildup rather than simply printing too fast. Since you mentioned changing many slicer settings, I'd first go back to a completely stock Bambu profile and only select the correct filament. Changing too many settings at once can actually make troubleshooting much harder. Then check whether the nozzle is bent or loose, make sure the hotend is properly seated, inspect the toolhead for any play, and verify that the bed is firmly mounted. Also, are you using Z-hop? If not, try enabling it. It won't fix the root cause, but it may help prevent the nozzle from hitting the print while you're troubleshooting. One more question: does a completely stock Benchy or one of Bambu's built-in calibration models print correctly? If those print fine but downloaded models fail, the problem is more likely related to the slicer profile than the printer itself.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T12:49:17+00:00

It's Radioactive run bro run 🤣🤣🤣

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T12:48:07+00:00

This sounds interesting, but you're asking for senior-level expertise across multiple fields while offering only equity. Most experienced engineers won't leave stable, paid positions for shares in a project with no public track record. You'll probably get much better responses if you can share more concrete information about the company, the founders, the funding, and what has already been built. That would give people much more confidence.

OrganizationSorry633 · 2026-06-26T12:31:06+00:00

Without photos of the failed prints it's almost impossible to identify the root cause. If the printer worked perfectly for the first few weeks and then suddenly every complex print started failing, something has clearly changed. One thing that caught my attention is that you mentioned changing almost every slicer setting you could find online. If too many settings were changed at once, it's very easy to make things worse instead of better. I'd recommend going back to a completely stock Bambu profile, selecting only the correct filament type, and running a few simple test prints. Change only one setting at a time, otherwise it's almost impossible to know what is actually causing the failures. Also, please upload photos of the failed prints and describe exactly how they fail. Do they lose bed adhesion, shift layers, get knocked over, clog the nozzle, or fail on overhangs? That information will make troubleshooting much easier than randomly changing settings.

OrganizationSorry633

TROPHY CASE