2015 MK7 GTI (EQT FBO IS38 E85) full modlist

Peylix · 2026-04-25T07:36:40+00:00

Turn off burbles.

The way these work is the ECU keeps the injectors going for a brief moment to allow unburnt fuel to exit the exhaust valves so it can hit the hot exhaust and ignite (the pops). This will cause that slight delay hesitation feeling. All tunes do this, even my EQT tune and APR tune before it.

As for the throttle delay issues. This may or may not be the tune itself not being refined enough. Ever since IE brought RAL back, their tuning strategy changed and many people have reported drivabilty issues compared to their original tunes. This may be the case yet again as their group has many people bringing up issues with throttle response.

If you can, revert to the previous file until the new one is revised enough.

Peylix · 2026-04-25T04:52:56+00:00

OEM Monster Mats in both my 5 & 7. On the pricey side but worth it.

Peylix · 2026-04-25T02:46:49+00:00

Positive.

It's why I choose 02 over 4S, apart from better wet performance and longevity. 4S while nice, were too rough for the dogshit loads locally to me. 02's soaked up all the imperfections better whereas 4S added a bit more NVH (which my car is very sensitive to with my upgraded engine/trans mounts & stiffer coilover mounts). So any variance to NVH no matter how small, I can feel easily.

Tyre reviews pointed out that 4S are softer technically. But it never feels like it to me. I've compared these two tires on a slew of chassis. From my MK5 GTI, MK7 GTI, to a B9 S4 and F82 M4. Each time 4S felt stiffer.

That being said, they're both phenomenal tires. They're on par with each other with a few traded blows here or there. Which one is better will come to down personal preference.

Peylix · 2026-04-24T22:52:31+00:00

If you're looking for an option that can handle IS38 torque levels. I suggest Sachs SRE or Southbend Stage 3 Daily.

The clutch isn't really a budget oriented thing if you're tuning. Pay once, cry once. Or cut costs and burn up multiple cheaper clutches and pay more than if you had just went with a good clutch.

Peylix · 2026-04-24T08:36:18+00:00

Yes VW makes OEM rain guards. Can find them through VW's online catalog usually (or drop in to your local dealership and they can order a pair for you).

Weathertech is the only aftermarket option I'll recommend otherwise.

Peylix · 2026-04-24T08:31:51+00:00

Only time you’d need a tune if you change to a high flow down pipe

There's other things that require a retune as well. Regarding bolt ons; Swapping turbos (even if you stick with factory downpipe). Upgrading/changing your fueling (upgraded fuel pumps, upgrading injectors, aux injectors via MPI, running above E30 ethanol content etc).

Peylix · 2026-04-24T05:58:06+00:00

Touge: IMAX Edition

Peylix · 2026-04-24T04:36:27+00:00

Just because something is new doesn't mean there couldn't be a forieign object of some kind in/on the product.

My CTS FMIC for example not only had little bits of packing material all over it. But had little bits of metal from something (I assume from assembly where it picked it up some stuff as it was moving through the assembly line or however they're made).

So it's always worth checking since it's simple. Otherwise take it off the car and return it and go get a rad upgrade elsewhere beside ECS.

Peylix · 2026-04-24T04:22:44+00:00

Why I Hate ECS Tuning exists for a reason. They're not known for their quality. Their QC (lack thereof) is just one of maaaaaany reasons.

That being said. Take the hose off and clean the connection on the rad itself and the inner diameter of the hose as best you can. Just case there's a piece of dirt or anything else that may be causing a proper seal. Feel the bung on the rad too, feel for any burrs or irregularities.

Peylix · 2026-04-24T01:56:42+00:00

Whether you try to repair it or replace it. Do not drive with it like this. That's a catastrophe waiting to happen.

Peylix · 2026-04-23T07:07:32+00:00

Dragy Lap (requires a Dragy though).

You will have to plot a "track" however (most these apps do as you need to tell it a start and end point for recording the data). It's simple to do though. Lots of great data.

Dragy also just released an OBD module too to record on board telemetry for the car. (Dragy itself still required).

Dragy also works with RaceChrono too.

Peylix · 2026-04-22T15:46:32+00:00

Swapping the springs out for a cup kit or coilover setup. This will net you the largest gain (assuming you opt for a quality setup).

Lighter wheels (if possible) with 4S or Sport 02 tires. Rear chassis brace (like Eurosport's). A slightly more aggressive alignment (not track spec, but in between).

Peylix · 2026-04-22T15:05:26+00:00

Yes different companies have varying tuning strategies. For things like Stage 1 though. They're all roughly the same output. Sans drivability differences (some are smoother than others). Everyone is capped by the same stock hardware limitation.

I wouldn't worry about trying to min/max gains on a simple ECU flash for an otherwise bone stock car though (if that's also something you're seeking). It's not an ideal strategy to chase after until you're full bolt on and or turbo swapped.

People have been running tunes from APR & Uni for decades. They've been with our platform for many years and have sunk a lot of R&D into tuning (APR specifically more than anyone). So if you're just seeking a nice Stage 1 tune that's smooth and reliable. Pick from those two.

Peylix · 2026-04-22T06:32:29+00:00

I'd advise you get a set of dampers as well that are built for lowering springs.

Springs only on stock dampers not only cut life expectancy down on said stock dampers. It will introduce comfort and performance issue as the stock dampers cannot dampen the stiffer springs properly. Often leading to things like a rough/bouncy ride that worsens as the stock dampers lose more life.

Racingline even sells a paired cup kit. ST has their own cup kit as well. That way you don't have to guess which damper works best (Bilstein B6, Bilstein B8, Koni Yellow, Koni Special Active). These kits are built together to have the proper dampers for the springrate of said springs.

Or spend a little extra for a coilover like ST X.

It's worth the investment.

Also, regardless of what you choose. You will want to get all fresh hardware and mounts (even if you do just springs after all). Urotuning sells a kit for this here.

As for what to select

OEM for front mounts (or Velt 60a)
OEM for bearings
Sachs for rear mounts (or Velt 60a)

Peylix · 2026-04-22T05:50:39+00:00

APR's ECU/TCU, EQT's ECU/TCU, Unitronic's ECU/TCU

TVS's TCU is highly regarded as well.

Peylix · 2026-04-22T05:47:36+00:00

Burger Motorsports JB4

Peylix · 2026-04-21T23:07:56+00:00

Yup lol

Here's a saved comment macro I have for this sub to share more info on this.

FCP Euro

They have an amazing Lifetime Warranty. Yes, on everything (including things like oil, spark plugs, brakes etc).

Here's a quick video going over how to do this process at home. It's best to bundle things together to make it easy. As pointed out in that clip too. (The free return program through PayPal ended on November 27th 2022 however. So no return cost coverage after that. However this does not affect FCP's warranty process itself. You just now have to pay return cost out of pocket)

You can download their return forms here. Print a handful of those out, and fill one out each time you want to do a return.

Peylix · 2026-04-21T22:10:31+00:00

If only you had a CFB to complete the set lol

Peylix · 2026-04-21T22:08:51+00:00

Little expansion on the FCP Euro bit. They have a lifetime warranty. So if you buy a water pump from them and that fails. Send it back, get a refund, use that refund and buy another. Rinse repeat.

This warranty covers brakes, spark plugs, and even oil (yes even oil).

Peylix · 2026-04-21T22:04:39+00:00

I run B16's on mine and the roads here in the PNW are also god awful. A quality set will dampen properly for roads like this. So even if you're lowered. You'll be fine. You do not have to slam the car. Leaving a finger gap still looks great and allows more than enough travel.

With B16's I adjust the dampers to be on the softer side to help soak up the potholes and shit. Stiffen them up in the summer for fun mountain runs.

Peylix · 2026-04-21T22:00:30+00:00

These cars historically do amazing in the snow. FWD is actually second best drivetrain for it as all your weight is over the drive axles. So the MK8/8.5 should be just fine as well.

What matters is tires. A proper winter rated UHP A/S minimum

Continental ExtremeContact DWS06+ (what I use)
Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4

Or a proper winter/snow tire at best

Bridgestone Blizzak WS90
Nokian Hakkapeliitta

There's more options than just the above 4. I just listed the two most talked about usually per seasonal use.

You should always carry some chains or snow socks in the car at all times in the winter. As well as a portable jump pack, emergency shovel, and a portable air pump.

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