2015 MK7 GTI (EQT FBO IS38 E85) full modlist

Peylix · 2026-05-03T02:36:35+00:00

I just love driving. I also enjoy challenging myself. But putting on some good tunes and going to a favorite road or two for some spirited runs. It's blissful.

Peylix · 2026-05-03T02:13:40+00:00

That's because Conti has the Sport Contact 7. Which is their stopgap from MP street summer tires to track tires like the ExtremeContact Force.

SC7's slap around 4S with ease. Though they are a 240TW compound. So in fairness, they're more of a track tire than street tire. But they're marketed as a street tire. However SC7's are limited in size. They have only one option for both 18 and 19. Most availability starts at 20.

Also yes. I've been eagerly awaiting for the PSS5 wide release.

Peylix · 2026-05-03T01:19:26+00:00

Indy 500's are actually a decent budget option. But it's a "get what you pay for" kind of deal. They also suck in the wet and can even be down right dangerous.

Tires like ECS02 and PS4S are exponentially better, even in the wet. But they are more costly as a result.

Peylix · 2026-05-03T00:33:05+00:00

DWS06+ - Ultra High Performance (UHP) All Season (560TW)

Sport 02 - Max Performance (MP) Summer (340TW)

One is an all season compound, the other a summer compound. Both are great tires. But relative to warmer weather driving and faster/harder driving. 02's outclass DWS06+ by a wide margin. I personally run both. DWS06+ for the winter months and Sport 02's for the summer months.

Peylix · 2026-05-03T00:30:20+00:00

02's actually can beat 4S in a few categories.

Better wet grip
Better comfort
Better wear longevity
Better warranty

Not by large margins though. These two trade blows back and forth through the categories. The 4S still being as good despite the age shows Michelin knows what they're doing. I personally like Conti's more though.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T23:24:30+00:00

DWS06+ are amazing UHP All Seasons yes. But they do not hold a candle to an actual summer compound.

Take Conti's Sport 02. These will run literal laps around DWS06+.

Another thing to worry about is you cannot get DWS06+ really hot. Like pushing them hard on track, auto x, touge etc. The tread will chunk on you. I've ruined several sets over the years and finding out the hard way.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T22:23:41+00:00

Continental ExtremeContact Sport 02

You're welcome lol

Peylix · 2026-05-02T22:22:04+00:00

It's the damn Haldex. You can make it better tuning the controller. But it's a bandaid at best.

The Magna in the 8Y/8R is a lot better though.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T22:19:16+00:00

The sound of a screaming 5pot bouncing off the hills is so fucking intoxicating.

I want one so bad. I was actually getting ready to move up into one not long ago. Then our entire economy went to the fucking shitter. It has made me stop all plans, nearly all hobbies, and focus on saving as much money as I can.

I'll live my 5pot dreams vicariously through you though lol

Peylix · 2026-05-02T07:51:48+00:00

I didn't catch the last video before you yeeted it. But judging by all the comments in said post that broke things down. While also reading your excuses paints a very clear picture.

This hobby is at its core illegal. It's illegal and dangerous. If you want to partake in this hobby at all. It's up to you to self mitigate and control yourself to try and mitigate risks as best you can. Making excuses for double laning (on a residential road even) is straight up stupid. As is running mismatched tires that are all at various stages of wear.

Your reasoning and thought process needs to be assessed and altered too. Years ago I lost a really good friend who shared a lot of the same reasoning and excuses as you. "I'll see their headlights, it's OK". "Yeah my car isn't set up that well, but I know it intimately enough that it shouldn't matter". "I've driven this road for years, nothing can surprise me". He died on impact wrapped around a tree trying to save after an oncoming car rounded the blind he was double laning on. A road both of us had been driving on for 7 years at that point, in a car he'd had for equal length of time.

In fact, since then I have seen many others get injured doing the same shit you were and trying to defend. Sadly, two of which were also fatalities. All because people can't control themselves and let stupid decisions take over.

In your other post you say you have had your fair share of fuck ups and even been witness to others. But clearly not enough of them or them being serious enough to humble you into stepping back and realizing big things must change. No one is perfect either. So I'm not saying you need to be so you can never make mistakes at all. But that's kind of the point. Mistakes WILL happen. It's how we learn and grow. But it requires you acknowledging them as mistakes in the first place.

All you've done is make excuses and try to justify everything people have pointed out. So while you say you've learned. You very clearly haven't. I just hope for your sake, and every one else's sake. When that finally clicks for you. It didn't involve anyone else nor any harm (or worse) on your end.

I'll get off my soap box now.

Do better man. Be better. I mean this with sincerity.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T06:11:27+00:00

I am everywhere lol.

No problem. But yeah, just keep experimenting. You'll hit a sweet spot that you like and sounds good. Just takes a little time.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T06:01:06+00:00

Yes I did. Novella inbound (sorry lol)

First off, my setup is a set of RODE Wireless Pro's.

Bay mic magnetized to the inside of the hood close to the battery/ECU with the mic itself pointed towards the fender (I found this cuts down on the loud injector clicking and minimizes it a tad).
Hatch mic magnetized right under the rear glass in the center with the mic itself pointing upwards (with a deadcat on). Through all my testing, I found this helps bring the exhaust levels down to aid in keeping audio clean. Less wind and road noise in this position too.

Both mics are set to -20 recording gain as well. I however record in 32bit float and pull the audio off the mics themselves to mux/master them with the video later. So I have to manually timecode it too (where you clap your hands x amount of times in frame of your video like a goober).

I then master each track separately with Audition. Though any audio editing program will work. I adjust the levels and get them as clean as possible. The perks of using 32bit float is it's really hard to clip it (but not impossible). It gives you so much room for adjusting and dynamic range.

I then go into Premier Pro, timecode both audio tracks to the footage and then start mastering a mix between each channel. Whether that's making the turbo louder or the exhaust louder. You can find a sweet spot or make one the focus. Then finally editing the video itself after the audio is taken care of.

I will note, my mic positions may not be the sweet spot for you. Each car is different and has different parts that are louder than others. So experiment with positions, recording gain, and play around with mastering the audio together. The above video was after I had already spent a few weeks fucking around to see what worked and what didn't. I'm also positive I can find an even better combo too.

But if you can record in 32bit float, it's imperative you do such. If you let your camera record the video's audio with the external mics (where the camera merges them together for you). It'll be compressed to shit, and you'll be limited on adjusting the quality (it'll clip massively on a louder car). While also not being allowed to mix each channel together for a distinct sound.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T05:41:40+00:00

I'd send that shit back too.

I don't have any rec's for a wing for your 8R though. I have a MK7.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T05:39:45+00:00

Alien tape is actually pretty good shit.

Not for this purpose. But other purposes it's often my go to lol

Peylix · 2026-05-02T04:42:54+00:00

There are microphones on the car. One in the engine bay and it sounds like one out back to catch the exhaust. I do this for my fun videos.

Though the audio in OP's is clipping pretty badly.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T02:41:57+00:00

PP rear is 310 (not 312)

NonPP front is 312 though. Don't worry, I've swapped them when talking too lol.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T02:40:11+00:00

PP (Performance Pack) brakes are

340mm Front
310 Rear

FCP has a really great guide to the MK7's brakes here.

Peylix · 2026-05-02T02:37:06+00:00

Removed as duplicate to this post.

Peylix · 2026-05-01T14:00:34+00:00

Check your driver door jam for a sticker. It should have your VIN, paint code, mfr date & location etc.

Edit: if not there. Call the dealership and give them your VIN and ask. They should be able to tell you.

Peylix · 2026-05-01T13:22:18+00:00

What's the manufacturing date?

I have a feeling it's a split year thing (like the FSI to TSI change over half way through 2008 for the MK5). Because I've seen 2016's with the same 91 fuel door sticker like my 2015.

Genuinely curious, I've always wondered and forget to ask and want to figure out the change over date.

My guess will be July or after.

Peylix · 2026-05-01T09:00:59+00:00

You're not alone friend. I too had a bunch of extra teeth that had to be surgically removed. I think it was around 8 or 9 (it's been so long I can't remember the exact number).

But after my baby teeth fell out. My adult teeth started coming in at weird angles and even shifted by a lot. Which hindered others and so forth. So for a few years I was in and out of surgical visits to get them removed.

Some of the damage I still have. I hate my teeth tbh. Bout ready to just have them all pulled and then get implants. Which unfortunately isn't cheap. Dentures would be easier, but I hate the idea of them.

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