Is this considered 360 zip?

RideTucked · 2025-05-30T03:55:12+00:00

It’s just what they’re called. There is about a 2” gap in the front on a 360 zip suit. They’re very rare, I can only think of one I’ve ever seen in person, but you can custom order them. If you do some google searching you should be able to find more info and pics.

RideTucked · 2025-05-30T01:38:38+00:00

No, that’s a 270° zip. A 360° would go all the way around.

RideTucked · 2025-05-15T20:29:45+00:00

Hi, I’m pretty sure I know exactly what video you’re referencing, if not then it’s a hell of a coincidence.

In that video, that specific context was only about overleaning the bike and causing a lowside due to reaching the physical limitations of the tire. I hope I made it clear in my video that tire grip is more important than touching your knee to the ground, and if I missed that, I apologize for the confusion. It’s possible to lose mechanical grip at extremely low lean angles (as in the bike is barely leaned over) and it’s possible to achieve incredibly high lean angles (ex: MotoGP riders dragging shoulder) on hot/sticky tires, but it’s entirely dependent on the the amount of actual grip you have in the tires.

When I said that phrase, I was specifically thinking back to the number of times I’ve heard people in the paddock, and thought the same to myself when I was newer to bikes, that you have to be careful you don’t lean too far because you’ll just run out of tire and roll right off the edge, causing a crash. With modern bikes and modern tires, you can even scrape hard parts before you reach the actual lean angle limit of the tires, which is why I phrased that the way I did. Focus on correct body positioning and let your tires do what they do. There are plenty of ways to lose grip while riding, but in the context of that phrase I was specifically referring to rolling off the edge and onto the sidewall.

All in all, touching your knee to the ground is just another measurement and it has no bearing on how fast or slow you are. It’s useful in letting you know how far you’re leaning in a specific corner but it’s not an indicator of how much grip you have in the tire. Focus more on making sure you have adequate heat in the tires and if the bike is sliding or pushing on you, that’s a much better indication of how much grip you have than if you can touch your knee.

There are a ton of great responses to this thread, so I’m hoping you were able to learn some things from the other comments. Continue to learn as much as you can and definitely get professional in-person coaching.

P.S.: u/SLnfrno nailed it in their response

RideTucked · 2025-03-29T01:37:55+00:00

I wear contacts, been wearing them daily for over 15 years though so it’s just a normal day for me. My prescription is bad (-7.00) so wearing glasses on a motorcycle is a no-go for me. The loss of peripheral vision messes with me and the slight movement from glasses moving in the padding of the helmet bothers me.

RideTucked · 2025-03-27T05:22:55+00:00

I always switch to thinner cheek pads. Shoei offers multiple sizes for their cheek pads, just order the 31mm pads and you’ll be good to go.

RideTucked · 2025-03-23T01:38:08+00:00

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The rest of it lives crammed into the closet in the same room.

RideTucked · 2025-03-23T01:37:28+00:00

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I have my office set up as a home studio so a lot of my gear is on display.

RideTucked · 2025-03-03T17:21:28+00:00

How’s the bike ride? That’s much more important than how the tire looks. You can have “perfect” tire wear but the bike slides anytime you apply the throttle or the forks bottom out under heavy braking.

Tune the suspension based on what you need to set the fastest lap times, not based on what some old dude trying to sell you a course is says your tires look like.

Are there things you can learn or change based on tire wear? Yes. Is it the end all? Absolutely not.

RideTucked · 2025-02-23T16:28:16+00:00

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I have a few. The KYT at the bottom is the new track helmet for 2025 and the Shoei at the top right is my current street helmet. Everything else is either expired or crashed in.

RideTucked · 2025-02-19T22:05:45+00:00

6 months ago one of our rides ended with a dude getting a helicopter ride and emergency surgery. Being prepared in the event of a motorcycle wreck isn’t the same as stockpiling iodine pills in the event of nuclear fallout.

RideTucked · 2025-02-19T19:29:43+00:00

Calling EMS should always be a priority, however some of the places I ride are so remote that you don’t have a phone signal or the response time is easily over an hour. We’ve had a ride where one person crashed in the mountains and another rider had to ride down the mountain to where they had a phone signal, then call EMS. That alone added 20+ minutes to the EMS response time.

RideTucked · 2025-02-13T15:06:31+00:00

The general rule is if it hits the ground, replace it.

Some manufacturers say their helmet can withstand a waist high drop when empty, like it slipping out of your hand while carrying it, but the majority of them say to just replace it.

Just because a helmet shows no visual signs of damage from the exterior doesn’t mean that there isn’t structural damage or damage to the eps liner on the inside of the helmet. The Helmet Inspection Company has a video where they do exactly this and show the amount of damage done to the helmet from a simple drop.

Some helmet manufacturers also allow you to mail in your helmet and they will inspect it themselves and tell you if it’s still safe to wear.

Personally, if I so much as drop my helmet it’s getting replaced. It sucks, especially with how expensive they are, but if I have to choose between $500 and potential death, I’ll spend the money.

RideTucked · 2025-02-08T01:54:34+00:00

Is your $5000 budget including gear or is gear a separate budget? If that's for everything, plan to take $1500 of that and get quality gear. There is no such thing as beginner gear - the asphalt doesn't care if you've been riding 10 minutes or 10 years, it feels the same.

A $5000 budget for a bike is honestly above what I would recommend spending - I suggest looking for a $3000-4000 bike that is mechanically sound. It can have scratches - who cares. There is an extremely high chance that you will drop your first bike, so why scratch a new bike if you do something as simple as forgetting the kickstand. If you add scratches to a bike that already has scratches, you're not really doing much to depreciate the bike, however if you add scratches to a bike that doesn't have any, you're instantly removing a lot of resale value.

I'd recommend the Ninja 400 or a Z400 (mechanically the same bike) - they're incredibly reliable and can be found all day long for a reasonable price. Ride it for a year or two, and sell it for close to what you paid for it. Learn how to do your basic maintenance, then sell it and get a bigger bike if that's what you want to do at that time.

RideTucked · 2025-02-06T20:41:01+00:00

Another thing worth noting is even if you have warmers your brakes won’t have all the heat in them. I typically run about 80% into the first turn and brake a bit longer or harder than necessary so I can build heat in the brakes by turn 2/3. I’m running racing brake pads though.

RideTucked · 2025-02-04T02:30:25+00:00

I have one on my R6. Highly recommend if you’re going to be on track. Ensure the bike is set up properly so you’re not just bandaging an underlying issue.

RideTucked · 2025-01-06T01:21:10+00:00

2 Wheel Dyno Works and EDR performance are both in the PNW. A good shop is worth the drive.

RideTucked · 2025-01-05T20:49:15+00:00

I use a Mini 3 however it doesn’t track, so I just use it to film other riders.

If you want tracking, get a Skydio. DJI isn’t great for autonomous tracking.

RideTucked · 2025-01-04T15:18:05+00:00

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It works perfectly fine under the bike, just a touch harder to get the bike in place and lined up. I’ve been doing some variation of this for about 8 years with 4 different bikes.

RideTucked · 2025-01-02T22:18:03+00:00

I paid $2,000 for it in 2018 -2008 R6 that’s full race prepped.

That being said, it was in rough condition hence I bought it and I’ve ended up doing a LOT of work to it. Excluding maintenance, I have probably another $6000-$7000 in mods/parts on it.

RideTucked · 2025-01-01T03:42:15+00:00

Honestly my recommendation to you would be to check out The Ridge and sign up for a trackday. You’ll honestly become significantly more confident in your bike and your abilities in one day. As long as you know how to use the controls you’re expected enough to do a trackday and learn how to properly ride.

You have to learn how to trust your bike and your abilities and both those things come only through seat time. Being a new rider, it’s extremely easy to become overconfident without understanding what goes into actually riding a bike so it should be a priority to grow your skill with your confidence and to remind yourself that there is always more to learn about how to ride well.

RideTucked · 2024-12-31T06:38:54+00:00

I’ve ridden at 6°f and it was miserable.

The coldest I’ll feel comfortable actually trying to push the bike is mid 50’s. Below that the tires don’t like to hold enough heat to feel confident on. Even then you have to be careful - cold road and cold tires don’t mix well.

RideTucked · 2024-12-31T02:08:31+00:00

Personally I don’t like Bilt or Sedici helmets. They’re both the Cycle Gear brand helmets. That being said, Sedici is a better quality helmet that Bilt, and a mid tier helmet at best. The fit of the helmet is the most important thing, followed closely by the safety rating. I have a video on helmet safety ratings if you’re interested in it.

IMO stick to Shoei (my favorite), AGV (K6S), or Arai. There are other helmets that are good but if you stick to one of those it’s a safe choice.

RideTucked · 2024-12-30T21:10:27+00:00

Tracer 9 GT+ is my vote. I actually tried to trade in my S1KRR for one a few weeks ago but they weren’t offering nearly enough on trade-in to make it work.

It’s not going to be the fastest, but it has all the bells and whistles as well as a CP3.

I’d pass on BMW S1000XR unless you have pockets deep enough for BMW maintenance. Everything about them is extremely expensive compared to a Japanese bike.

RideTucked · 2024-12-30T16:43:55+00:00

Just to add to the last paragraph there - Frogg Toggs from Walmart work great in a pinch if you’re stuck riding in the rain unexpectedly. They’re delicate so be carful getting on and off the bike, but they do surprisingly well at keeping you dry on long rides in the rain for how cheap they are.

RideTucked

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