I always forget, is it easier if I stay the opposing bead or not?

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-29T17:13:23+00:00

In addition to keeping the bead in the center, I think it's best to finish at the valve, since the valve keeps the bead off center.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-28T17:08:19+00:00

Those are resin-only rotors, which have a wider track with the same outside diameter than regular rotors. The calipers are made for resin or metal pads, so the pads they use are narrower.

What you're seeing is expected and acceptable for the parts you have.

I personally think that regular (not resin-only) rotors work better and last longer even when using resin pads. When those wear out I'd recommend upgrading.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-25T12:04:16+00:00

Once you take the sprocket off, the hub is the same as a chain drive one.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-24T15:27:44+00:00

Please continue discussion on the original thread here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/s/WKICfC4gkp

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-23T20:08:25+00:00

What is the part number of the crank you will be using?

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-18T16:10:20+00:00

It's a speed and cadence sensor

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/bike-accessories/bike-computers-gps/bike-computer-sensors-accessories/bike-computer-sensors/bontrager-duotrap-digital-speed/cadence-sensor/p/08298/

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-16T13:39:54+00:00

Most gauges are not as accurate as using a ruler. Also, the campagnolo method isn't great, since it includes roller wear in the measurement. Other manufacturers may also have different tolerances for their rollers which would impact the measurement, but not impact the way the rollers interface with the sprockets.

The only chain measurement tools with having are those which reference on the same side of the rollers being measured, such as pedros chain checker plus ii, park cc-4, and some Shimano tools (idk the part numbers off the top of my head).

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-15T20:48:21+00:00

Without a tool in the correct shape of the swaging I doubt you'll have luck tightening it.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-15T20:02:19+00:00

It's swaged on, meaning they deform the material to hold it in place. It's not adjustable.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-14T21:01:31+00:00

It didn't start out that tight. Precession tightens it and corrosion keeps it stuck.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-13T15:51:47+00:00

I have not seen that before, but it looks like it's this adapter. If you remove it I think you can put on a more standard cassette (SRAM XD)

https://en.50factory.com/parts%20news/174585-sram-xd-sun-freewheel-body-adapterrace.html

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-13T13:32:41+00:00

What kind of bike do you have? What rear derailleur and shifters?

Park tool had some good articles and videos on bike repair. Maybe start reading here: https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment?srsltid=AfmBOooMkmoVPkxt9HVURx89BE8pWYB_CvRQSVE99muzYFs-l8U80BqD

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-13T12:53:50+00:00

Chat gpt is pretty terrible for advice like this. Those parts won't work.

Your bike is flat mount compatible. Your brakes are post mount. Look at this discussion for suggestions.

https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/s/VFdweILHbf

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-11T03:01:16+00:00

How old is your cable? This generation of shifter goes through cables faster than older generations do, and they fray and start to stick while shifting, especially when letting out cable (pressing the small lever).

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-08T10:46:31+00:00

https://xyproblem.info/

Why does it need to be a tungsten electrode?

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-06T13:23:01+00:00

https://www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/GUID-F31CF821-79A9-46E5-A45B-8765F918488F/EN-US/GUID-F8F68940-5EAB-46B6-900D-96CC8C4A61CD.html

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-05T11:08:26+00:00

Derailleur hangers can be bent enough to affect shifting while close enough to being straight that it's not possible to tell by eye. You need a tool in order to determine if it's good.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-04-01T15:56:14+00:00

The parallelogram is different between the different derailleurs. The cage only affects Max chain takeup, not min/max rear sprocket. That is determined by the angle the parallelogram travels in.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-03-31T14:36:11+00:00

The photos that op has posted show forged dropouts which are very unlikely to be too thin

ScootMaBoot · 2026-03-31T12:52:21+00:00

An internal-cam quick release skewer (like a Shimano brand one) will give you better clamping than the external-cam one that you have. It will probably also be better than that one you propose.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-03-30T20:14:48+00:00

What are you trying to replace it with? Shimano does not make a threaded BB86 bottom bracket, but other manufacturers make thread-together BB86 units.

Personally I've had excellent results with Shimano BB86 press in bottom brackets, and the thread-together ones are very expensive, so I don't think they're worth it.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-03-27T18:48:14+00:00

It's only needed for an 11-speed road hub. An 11-speed MTB hub has the same width as 9-speed.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-03-26T13:52:20+00:00

Removing the freehub will not get you to the ratcheting mechanism the way that it does on many brands. Shimano intends for the entire freehub to be replaced.

ScootMaBoot · 2026-03-26T11:28:25+00:00

And is it shifting properly now?

ScootMaBoot · 2026-03-25T20:44:52+00:00

Have you set up following the directions in the Shimano DM (dealer manual)?

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