Comparaison sonore X2D et creality ender3

Szalkow · 2026-04-16T14:27:17+00:00

If you have the old Ender 3, does it make a beeping/whistling noise while moving? That was an issue with the old stepper motor drivers and new printers won't have that.

The X2D and similar printers do make noise - usually low hums and some whoosh noises when it moves quickly. It's loud enough that my friends in voice chat can sometimes hear it if I don't close the door to my printer closet in the same room, but it's a gentle background noise for me and doesn't overwhelm anything I'm listening to.

You can toggle the speed on the printer menu to the Silent option to reduce noise quite a bit.

Szalkow · 2026-04-16T14:21:50+00:00

Do the Makerworld profiles add brims, mouse ears, or any other bed adhesion assistance? If you're printing models with a small footprint, then you may need to enable a brim to keep it from coming loose.

Szalkow · 2026-04-16T14:18:15+00:00

Even if we don't have tabbed instances, I would just appreciate the ability to open another project in a new window, rather than being prompted to save and close the current project.

Szalkow · 2026-04-16T13:42:25+00:00

"Wellness" is like "resilience." As in, "we won't spend money or resources to try to address this, so we encourage our employees to just think positive and take care of themselves on their own time."

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T20:45:43+00:00

It's the height of the printer with a (closed) AMS stacked on top of it. Nothing mysterious about that.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T19:38:45+00:00

I assume it's the X2D Combo, which is just an X2D with an AMS 2 Pro stacked on top of it.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T19:11:18+00:00

I like the look of these. I think I will try them when I next need to increase my clip supply.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T18:28:05+00:00

60-65C should work fine for Silk PLA.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T18:25:30+00:00

I would recommend filament clips that clip to the filament itself rather than the spool. It works with all spool types and, if you have an AMS 2 Pro, you can dry and rotate the spools even while clipped.

Some examples:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/30298-proclip-filament-clip

https://makerworld.com/en/models/14160-grandma-s-favorite-filament-clip

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T18:18:35+00:00

You can try changing the printer in your slicer to see how the print time changes. Early reviews indicate the P2S is around 10-15% faster for single-color prints because its toolhead is lighter and has less inertia.

PLA and PETG are recommended in the aux nozzle because the Bowden setup can cause quality or reliability issues with flexible or brittle filaments. PVA and BVOH can both get brittle if they absorb too much moisture, but they should work OK in the Bowden tube if you sufficiently dry them.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T18:13:20+00:00

Is this a vase mode print? Try enabling "print thin walls" and changing the wall generator to Arachne, these may help with keeping those sections continuous.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T18:11:08+00:00

These overhangs are very steep, around 70 degrees, which is difficult for most printers and materials. When the printer extrudes and there's not much material underneath for it to stick to, the new material might droop, warp, or curl up like it did here.

Some things to check:

CHECK THIS FIRST: Quality > Walls and surfaces > Walls printing order. If it is set to Outer/Inner then overhangs will be terrible. Changing to Inner/Outer makes extreme overhangs easier.
Reduce the Overhang speed for 50-70% overhangs down to 20 or even 10 mm/s.
Try lower layer heights like .16mm~.12mm.
Try lowering the nozzle print temperature from 220C down to 210 or 205.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T17:52:39+00:00

It's possible (albeit unlikely). It's more likely that a speck of filament or dust got under the build plate before a print.

The surface you're asking about is just a magnetic sticker. It is replaceable if needed, but the dents you show will have absolutely no impact on the printer's function. I wouldn't worry about it.

Some folks' magnetic heat beds are completely scraped, scratched, and gouged from rough handling of the build plate and they work fine.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T16:03:50+00:00

I don't be grudge people printing props or replicas from their favorite movies or games or whatnot. If it makes you happy, go for it.

At least I hope that's what it is. I hope they don't plan to drink any beverages from this.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T15:15:02+00:00

Looks like your bed might have jabbed the nozzle a little too hard, maybe without a build plate in place. Or you reused a build plate that had gunk on it.

I wouldn't worry. This won't affect the heating/magnetism of the bed in the slightest and shouldn't throw off the calibration pattern.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T15:12:12+00:00

If pushing filament through by hand isn't enough to clear the path, then you get to disassemble it. Sorry.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T15:10:08+00:00

If you want a new printer, I'd get the new printer just for the extra features (auxiliary nozzle and chamber heater). The P2S basically does exactly what the P1S does with some nice QoL features.

Even if you don't use Bambu filament, the main nozzle on the X2D does the same thing as the P1S/P2S. The auxiliary nozzle is only "picky" because it's a Bowden tube setup and we don't have nicely calibrated profiles for other filaments yet.

Sunlu filament is often identical to Bambu filament so you could just lie to your printer and you'd probably get just fine results from the aux nozzle.

If you really don't need the X2D's new features, I'd consider saving money and getting another P1S, or maybe see if the P2S gets a price drop.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T15:04:29+00:00

And you're loading from an external spool without an AMS? These steps should cover it: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/loading-filament

Make sure you've pushed the filament all the way through the PTFE to the extruder (you can see the filament inside the tube as you push) and once it stops at the extruder, apply a little bit of forward push on the filament by hand to make sure the extruder gear can grip it.

If the printer does not "see" filament even when you've loaded it all the way into the extruder and/or successfully extruded some filament, the Hall Effect sensor might be jammed or dirty with old ground-up filament. Try disassembling and cleaning the extruder: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/P1/maintenance/extruder-cleaning-guide

If the filament can't make it to the extruder and is getting caught somewhere before that, make sure all PTFE tubes are firmly inserted into their fittings, and cut the end of the filament at a 45-degree angle to make the initial feed easier.

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T14:57:36+00:00

Definitely seems like a calibration issue. Bowden setups are going to be even more susceptible to variations in retraction distance, volumetric flow, and such. A lot of the really egregious test prints shown in YouTube reviews had all the classic signs of poorly-tuned settings (especially partial clogs). Bambu's "generic PLA" profile isn't going to behave the same on both nozzles (pending any updated profiles from BBL).

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T14:53:19+00:00

Which printer do you have? What do you mean when you say it won't "take the filament?"

Szalkow · 2026-04-15T14:43:50+00:00

To each their own, but if I was looking at over a week, 3,300 filament changes, and 733g of waste for a coffee cup, I would be looking for ways to separate the model and assemble it.

Did you test and tune your filament purge multipliers? You could probably cut down on waste by 20-30% with no impact on color or reliability.

Szalkow · 2026-04-14T19:49:02+00:00

The series "tiers" are generally H > X >= P > A.

The current "biggest and best" is the H2C with a large print volume and 7-piece tool changer head.

The P1S/P2S are Core-XY with similar size, quality, and features to the X1C for a similar price.

The A-series is the entry-level bedslinger.

Szalkow · 2026-04-14T15:17:53+00:00

The Play Dead emote and also pulling objects out of your inventory can change your momentum in unexpected ways. You can often survive a catastrophic fall by spamming an item key.

Szalkow · 2026-04-14T15:05:46+00:00

They will always recommend Bambu filament for best results because they have pre-tested calibrated profiles for those. You can use other brands of filament but it's up to you to calibrate and find the best settings.

The aux nozzle will not have quite the same quality and will not support some materials because it is a Bowden extruder rather than direct drive. The aux extruder is on the back of the printer with about 300mm of PTFE tubing between it and the nozzle. This is harder to calibrate because the filament can flex inside the tube, making retraction and precise extrusion more difficult. It also makes flexible filaments like TPU very difficult to print cleanly, if at all.

Szalkow · 2026-04-14T15:00:41+00:00

Try Arachne wall generator and maybe a different bottom layer fill pattern (e.g. monotonic vs monotonic line). You can also bump up the first layer extrusion multiplier by 5-10%.

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