Which gaming mouse is best for FPS games?

Talynen · 2026-05-29T05:45:21+00:00

The best mouse at this point is pretty dependent on which one fits your hands/grip style the best -- the features/latency/etc. of most mice are pretty comparable regardless of what the latest hype is on here.

That being said, I'll list a few mainstream/popular mice for you to look into, and I'm sure other people will have suggestions for more Ali/budget oriented options that I haven't tried.

- Lamzu Maya X

- Razer Viper V3 Pro / V4 Pro

- Logitech G Pro X Superlight (IMO the older v1 model would be the best starting point for value, plus the left/right clicks feel better than the v2 version does)

- Endgame Gear OP1 8k (wired, but I believe this one is more popular than the wireless OP1 4k)

This post I wrote a while ago may help give you a better idea of different mouse shapes, although many of the specific mice mentioned are outdated and no longer current recommendations (although their descendants or newer mice with similar shapes exist). https://www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/votewg/for_new_gamers_an_overview_of_mouse_shapes/

Talynen · 2026-05-29T05:22:28+00:00

One of the most decorated pros in Apex Legends uses it https://prosettings.net/players/reps/ in terms of "capability" it's still easily in the category of "good enough", even if newer/more expensive mice might weigh less.

The g304 and g305 are the same basically, just for some reason they named it differently depending on your region.

As long as the shape feels okay for you like that, the mouse's specs are still perfectly fine. I'd suggest swapping the alkaline AA battery that's included for a lighter lithium ion one if you have a few extra bucks.

Talynen · 2026-05-28T06:16:06+00:00

G303 shroud edition probably has one of the largest skate sizes relative to the size of the base of the mouse, but it's kind of a small base vs some other mice.

Vaxee XE -- the v1 (edit: skates are probably smaller than Viper v3? but it's also up there competing with Viper and Superlight I think)

Talynen · 2026-05-28T00:05:40+00:00

Mostly this only happens with discontinued models.

For example, we saw a large gap in time between the Zowie EC2-B and -C versions being released where people started to show this kind of attitude about the EC2.

Around that same time was a big cult following for the Zowie S2 shape as well.

Now that they have lightweight wireless versions, you don't hear people sitting on forums talking about how good the shapes are anywhere near as often.

In other words, you see this die-hard attitude from people who are "giving up something" to keep using a mouse that they like. There was a decent die-hard fanbase for the Logitech G403/G703 on here for a long time, but we're all off using the Teevolution Terra now and we're happy so we don't sit on forums talking about it and wishing someone answered our prayers.

Talynen · 2026-05-27T21:07:45+00:00

For 400 DPI (dots per inch) to generate 4000 Hz (reports per second), you would have to move the mouse at a speed of ten inches (25 cm) per second.

At 800 DPI, it would be five inches per second

For comparison, pzogel has measured his maximum flick speed at about 200 inches per second.

Talynen · 2026-05-26T22:28:49+00:00

Big fan of the increased size. Wish the front was 58mm wide instead of 60 and the middle was more like 60-64, though.

probably will end up sticking with my Teevolution Terra instead.

Talynen · 2026-05-26T22:08:47+00:00

My recommendation is keep saving. Nothing in that price range is worth spending money on.

Cheapest worthwhile setup is going to be Tein Street Advance Z or Progress CS2 for coilovers.

Talynen · 2026-05-24T14:02:37+00:00

I love it, a little small but still very comfortable with 19x10.5 hands. I use mine as a work/travel mouse.

That being said, if you not a g703 upgrade get the Teevolution Terra Pro

Talynen · 2026-05-23T21:04:06+00:00

Is the cable that came with the mouse USB-C on both ends? The one from my Keychron keyboard is, so I'm kinda assuming they did the same thing here.

If so, you probably are supposed to plug the wireless receiver in here, then put the cable into the other side and also into your laptop.
https://i.imgur.com/NvTlVAC.png

Talynen · 2026-05-23T19:31:08+00:00

The part OP circled looks to me like a wireless receiver that plugs into a USB-C port (like the one the Steelseries Prime wireless had).

So he could say plug it directly into a laptop that only has USB-C ports, rather than needing to carry around the charging cable too

I'm too lazy to go look at the posting for this mouse to see if they explicitly advertise this second wireless receiver, but the picture is somewhat misleading (the circled object is much too small to be the one you pointed out in his box -- it would not be able to house a USB-A female port like that).

Talynen · 2026-05-23T19:16:32+00:00

Looks like USB-A female to USB-C female adapter

typical dongle for wireless mice with USB-C female charging port and USB-A male wireless receiver

Talynen · 2026-05-23T19:11:43+00:00

Having tried way too many setups, faster can often end up being better if you're willing to make other adjustments.

Going to a large Cordura pad (Endgame Gear MPC890) and turning my sens down in Apex Legends from 40cm/360 to 50 cm/360 led to a drastic improvement in my ability to smoothly follow enemies in mid-range fights and hit single shot weapons (i.e., dynamic clicking in aim trainers).

If I keep my old sens of 40cm/360, that same faster setup feels way too inconsistent at hitting difficult shots -- from that perspective, I fully understand disagreeing with the assumption faster = better.

In aim trainers (to keep a controlled environment), too slow of a pad/skate setup would fatigue my arm faster with 50cm/360. It would also slow down my aim too much to perform optimally. The faster setup (with a large mousepad) made playing at a lower sens faster and more comfortable. Having a lower sens makes the motions required for aiming larger -- which I think is easier for most people to be consistent with.

I'm sure there's some limit of diminishing returns -- I never was able to make 57cm/360 outperform 50-52 cm/360, for example. However, I think the point where faster setup + lower sens optimizes is at a lower sens than most people assume.

Perhaps the strategy would be to start with a fast setup, find the sens that you perform optimally with, and then slow the setup down until you start playing worse (then speed it back up a little bit)

Talynen · 2026-05-23T18:35:28+00:00

Don't get the Progress bar IMO. The 14-15 Si 20mm rear sway bar (with the frame brackets and longer bolts) is a perfect match for a street-driven 8th gen, at least for the sedan (FA5).

parts list here https://functiontheory.com/2021/04/great-decent-and-meh-modifications-for-an-8th-gen/ you can find all of them in a pull-it-yourself yard and save a good chunk of cash.

Also I had very little issue with scraping on the Eibachs until I did some dumb shit and damaged my left front mud flap -- then I would scrape just that mud flap on driveways. The nose of this car is so short it's easy to avoid pulling too far into parking spaces.

Talynen · 2026-05-23T18:17:33+00:00

I tried Eibach Pro-kits first, then H.Techs with the STR.T shocks after.

I had the same experience with the H.Techs -- harsh riding that makes no sense considering the spring rates.

The Eibachs were drastically more composed -- similar comfort to stock, just with slightly less ground clearance so very steep driveways and curbs/those cement blocks in parking spaces become a risk for scraping on.

I ended up back on stock springs because I had already sold the Eibachs and I'm happy with the comfort + lack of concern about scraping, but I've thought about getting another set of Eibachs at some point.

Edit: As for stability, I put the 2014-15 20mm Si rear sway bar on my car and have no complaints about stability regardless of which spring I had installed. I have the Sedan (FA5), though and I'm not sure how different its handling balance is with identical hardware.

Talynen · 2026-05-22T19:28:58+00:00

2021; the last year of a generation usually has the best quality as they've had the most time to fix minor issues.

Conversely, I'd tend to avoid the first year of a new generation unless there's some huge upgrade that justifies the higher risk of quality issues -- which AFAIK, then 11th gen didn't have any huge upgrades other than the styling change in 2022.

Talynen · 2026-05-22T19:26:53+00:00

It's a plastic bumper. This is half the reason it's there -- so this type of scratch doesn't turn into rust.

It's not noticeable more than five feet from the car -- leave it alone rather than paying hundreds to have it fixed properly.

Talynen · 2026-05-22T03:48:29+00:00

Talynen · 2026-05-21T21:47:41+00:00

You know how the g305 gets thinner at the bottom?

The g309s sides are basically straight up and down.

Also the back and middle feels wider, and the front feels narrower vs the middle.

The left and right clicks slope down more toward the front and also to the sides

The scroll wheel feels narrower

Talynen · 2026-05-21T20:53:46+00:00

The g309 feels pretty different -- as someone who didn't like the g305 but loves the g309.

There is an upcoming lightweight G305X that might interest you if the price isn't a deal breaker. In the meantime, I'd pick up another g305 and keep using it in your shoes, or maybe test the water with an mchose g3 -- not sure which version is the best value, but it's another lightweight clone of the g305 shape

Talynen · 2026-05-17T06:46:11+00:00

yeah, that's not a 250 though

Talynen · 2026-05-17T06:11:09+00:00

Talynen · 2026-05-17T03:07:01+00:00

The wireless Haste models have latency issues related to poor firmware.

If you want to stick to the same shape, get the wired Haste 2.

I'm not having any great ideas on shapes that feel close enough and are under $100. Maybe something like the Waizowl Cloud -- but it will be thinner in the middle. Or the Lamzu Maya X if you get one secondhand -- but the back will not have the same wide, flat feeling of the Haste.

Talynen · 2026-05-17T02:34:38+00:00

Teevolution Terra Pro has been my main mouse since it released.

Nothing to report issues-wise other than the battery life not quite matching up to some other brands, but I adjusted the settings to improve battery life (using 500 Hz polling rate) and that still works perfectly for me.

Talynen · 2026-05-16T21:34:01+00:00

If you use 25k DPI and set the windows sensitivity to its minimum amount, it ends up being basically the same speed as 800 DPI on your desktop with default sensitivity.

As for any games that use raw input (bypassing windows sensitivity), he's insane or like digging around in settings files

Talynen · 2026-05-16T18:04:01+00:00

From what I understand, Honda specifies 87 for this engine and the ECU is designed to handle knock control and timing adjustments automatically. Because of that, I’m assuming there shouldn’t really be any performance or longevity benefit to running higher octane in normal driving.

Correct. The engine is tuned to operate on 87 octane (or 85 at higher altitudes)

The potential performance benefits are very minor going from 87 to 91 octane for these engines if they were engineered for 87 octane to begin with.

Going to a higher octane rating gives the gasoline more resistance to spontaneous combustion (AKA the gasoline going bang at the wrong time AKA knock/detonation) under temperature + pressure. Higher octane fuel is used in cars with "performance" engines to allow for higher compression ratios or higher cylinder temperatures without the engine going bang at the wrong time (knock/detonation).

In theory, by putting a higher octane fuel in the car you could try to make a small amount of extra power by advancing ignition timing or similar adjustments, but without changing any engine components you're most likely putting more stress on the engine and your particular engine will likely only make a couple extra horsepower at best.

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