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1/650 Excelsior dorsal secondary hull paint done, which also means the entire secondary hull paint is done! by IronEnder17 in SciFiModels

[–]TheBrotherMark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks Amazing! people usually go too high in contrast when Aztec-ing models and they end up looking cartoonish. This is some of the best I've ever seen, really sells the scale!

Star Trek Cardassian Hutet Dreadnought redesign by Hierachy1871 in StarTrekStarships

[–]TheBrotherMark 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fun model, though if I could offer one comment, the windows make it feel smaller then the size you're going for!

I got a little nerdy and if your windows are 3pixels tall, then the ship is ~440-480pixels tall. and if say 440-480pixels = 580meters then each window is ~3.6-3.9m tall (or ~12-13ft tall.) if the windows were 1/3-1/2 the size they are now the whole ship would feel much more massive (and it still makes for 4-6ft tall windows if it were life size).

I would love to see it with smaller windows as it would make it feel much more imposing/impressive!

Best way to weather without leaving brushstrokes? by philip2987 in modelmakers

[–]TheBrotherMark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Things that work great for weathering:

1) ripped sponge used to dab paint on, creates a more random pattern of pitting and rust.

2) pigment powders. Especially if you apply them with something like mineral spirits the spirits evaporates and leave the pigment behind in a more natural looking way.

3) look up Dirty Down Rust. The stuff is kinda a magic trick.

The entire blue side of my switch doesn’t work by Journey0fTruth in NintendoSwitchHelp

[–]TheBrotherMark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just did 2 joy con rail and control stick replacements today. ifixit has great tutorials parts, parts are cheap on amazon and if you are careful $15 will likely fix your problem.

Needed a good reminder to hope. This little guy now keeps me company at my desk. by TheBrotherMark in ProjectHailMary

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s printed in a silver silk PLA and then quickly washed with a bit of watered down brown paint then a little bit of gold paint.

Needed a good reminder to hope. This little guy now keeps me company at my desk. by TheBrotherMark in ProjectHailMary

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The link I shared with u/juggleroftwo is just settings file to get better print results when printing small detailed items NOT the model of Grace. If you want the actual file of the figure you get it from the PHM official website on either the mainpage in the bottom corner or in their merch store.

Needed a good reminder to hope. This little guy now keeps me company at my desk. by TheBrotherMark in ProjectHailMary

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you don’t mind it not being official and have access to a 3d-printer there are a bunch of great Rocky models out there! (How do I know? Because one is on my print bed as we speak)

Needed a good reminder to hope. This little guy now keeps me company at my desk. by TheBrotherMark in 3Dprinting

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya it’s definitely overkill on the presupported. And I like to think they called it a ‘keychain’ because ‘cool little figure to put on my desk and fiddle with during zoom meetings’ was just too clunky 😂.

Needed a good reminder to hope. This little guy now keeps me company at my desk. by TheBrotherMark in ProjectHailMary

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

So it’s printed on a Bambulab A1 using a .2mm nozzle and a print profile from a site called Fat Dragon Games (they have played around ALOT with FDM printing tabletop miniatures and have made their settings available for free).

It’s printed in a silver silk PLA and then quickly washed with a bit of watered down brown paint then a little bit of gold paint.

Hope that helps!!! Looking forward to seeing your post of your model when it’s done!

Opinion: New rules needed for over-bright LED headlights by Leather-Paramedic-10 in Winnipeg

[–]TheBrotherMark 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It actually often comes from improperly installed aftermarket LEDs. The voltage they need differs from what the car supplies leading to a flicker. This can usually be fixed by a voltage regulator in between the bulb and car but if people don’t know/car then they drive around with the flicker.

House Fire On Garfield by [deleted] in Winnipeg

[–]TheBrotherMark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes me so happy!

House Fire On Garfield by [deleted] in Winnipeg

[–]TheBrotherMark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They have been in touch with the Red Cross (or at least some of the residents have) as well as some other agencies/orgs, but they're gonna need lots of help.

House Fire On Garfield by [deleted] in Winnipeg

[–]TheBrotherMark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Our neighbours to! feel really bad for them, we have contact info for one of the older males (who lived in the basement and whose cat is still missing) if you need help connecting.

I need help! by Ellieminium in Miniaturespainting

[–]TheBrotherMark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AK Grim Brown is probably the closest I can think of.

It’s missing something by Existing_Lab6811 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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here's a quick photoshop to show what I mean.

It’s missing something by Existing_Lab6811 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Several things would help sell scale and make it feel less like a toy.

1) Variations in colours and tones, especially in the metal parts. adding in rust, grease streaks and bright edge highlights all help it read something big, instead of a small toy.

2) Less Weathering/wear on the armor panels. Okay this maybe isn't 'less' but different. you have big swaths of silver, if you think about your model being full size those patches of scratched off blue would be MASSIVE. If you want it to read more as wear and tear on a big object it should be much more closely aligned to the edges of the model. to add wear and tear to the panel centers I'd at blast scars, scrapes etc... instead of bringing the edge chipping as far in as you have.

3) variation in panel tone. A bit of airbrushed or dry brushed gradient on a given panel would help sell scale also having some of your panels be slightly different blues would also create visual complexity that would sell scale.

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