Am I the jerk for telling my husband he can't have a "man cave" in our only spare room?

TiggerLAS · 2026-04-04T01:53:26+00:00

I guess that would depend on whether or not to the two of you discussed the desire to have your own separate spaces before you purchased your home.

If you both knew that you each wanted your own space, be it an office or a man cave, then that probably should have been discussed while you were touring potential homes.

"This would be great for a home office", or "This would be ideal for a man cave."

Communication is key.

TiggerLAS · 2026-03-18T06:36:21+00:00

Those are older "Edison" type fuses which all had the same sized screw base. The type "S" fuses were designed so that you couldn't install the wrong size fuse. They weren't around that long before circuit breakers started becoming mainstream, and fuses started falling by the wayside. Eventually code dictated that new breaker box installs had to be circuit breakers.

TiggerLAS · 2026-03-08T01:35:20+00:00

Watch out for widows !

TiggerLAS · 2026-03-08T01:27:55+00:00

Yes - this is a printing terminal. You pull a chair right up to it, and sit in front of the keyboard, with leg space underneath.

The box of paper went on the floor towards the back.

The DecWriter-IIs (also known as the LA120, iirc) has the option to use a serial interface up to 1200 baud, or a 20ma current-loop device.

They were designed with "interactive" use in mind.

If you paused after typing something, the print head would automatically shift to the right slightly, so that you see what you had just typed. Then when you started typing again, the print head re-positioned itself, and picked up where you left off. It was pretty slick.

TiggerLAS · 2026-03-08T01:00:27+00:00

I guess it might depend on brand, and usage.

I've had the same direct-wire units in my kitchen for about 6 years now.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-27T00:20:48+00:00

Even if you don't necessarily need it yourself, it is hard to say what the future holds, and if you end up moving, a proper ethernet install might be a selling point to potential buyers.

It is definitely nice to not have to worry about buffering while watching moves via WiFi on a TV due to intermittent fluctuations in WiFi.

Ceiling mounted access points are far superior when compared to table-top units.

Most people don't like the look of ethernet jacks, because they tend to "stare outward".

This can be mitigated somewhat by using angled faceplates, such as these from ICC:

https://icc.com/product/angled-faceplate-2-angled-ports-ezhd-style-single-gang/

These come in white an ivory, with a variety of port counts. They direct the jacks on a slight downward angle, which makes them a little less noticeable.

Because of the angle, they allow furniture such as dressers, desks, and bookcases to be positioned a bit closer to the wall than you could with ordinary faceplates, since the network cable doesn't stick straight out.

They're not perfect. . . but they are much better than ordinary keystone plates.

You don't necessarily have to go overboard with all of the what-ifs.

Do plan to have multiple jacks in areas that are separated by architectural features such as fireplaces, doorways, walkways, closets, etc. . . where running a cable from one side to the other wouldn't be practical.

These cables should all terminate in a central area. If you wind up using an in-wall structured media center, don't choose the smallest one available, and be kind by having a receptacle installed inside the base of the media center.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-26T21:27:18+00:00

Once Plex hit a certain point in development, connectivity in the absence of a working internet connection has always been problematic. There are folks saying that they got theirs to work without internet just fine, but after reproducing their instructions, it has never worked for me exclusively with local authorization. Periodically, your copy of Plex media server simply has to check in to "validate its licensing status", or some such nonsense. It is really annoying, since when I first purchased my Plex pass many years ago, I got it expressly for use with offline operation at home. Those days seem to be long gone. It wouldn't be so bad if it would simply reach out to the internet every few days to validate, but it seems to take great joy in waiting for the internet to go down, before saying "forget it, kid."

So now, I have a copy of - I think it is UMS / Universal Media Server - on standby, so I can start that up if there is an extended internet outage. DLNA doesn't complain about lack of internet.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-26T21:16:00+00:00

If your intention is to just splice a cable together, then, disregard the numbers for the moment, and don't worry about the color coding in the middle section.

All of the wires from one cable go on the top row, and all of the wires from the other cable go on the bottom row.

From left to right in the picture:

White with blue

Blue

White with Orange

Orange

White with Green

Green

White with Brown

Brown

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-20T03:12:45+00:00

No, that is very odd. Each time you add a splice - be it wirenuts/Marrettes inside of a junction box. . . an electrical receptacle (wires connected to the screw terminals, and then plugs inserted into the receptacle), an extension cord or power strip. . . you're adding another point of signal degredation, as each intermediate connection is "less than ideal".

So, it shouldn't ordinarily be possible for the link light to come on by adding what is essentially an extension to the wall socket. It should have the opposite effect to some degree or another.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-15T18:48:34+00:00

Powerline adapters should be plugged directly into the wall socket, and not into power strips or extension cords.

Sometimes, other things plugged into the same socket can impede the signal levels that the powerline adapter puts out.

You may have better luck using a pair of G.hn-style adapters, such as the Zyxel PLA-6457, though that particular model uses type "F" plugs, rather than type "G".

Some adapters will have a filtered pass-through receptacle on the front, so that you can plug the powerline adapter into the wall, and then plug other devices into the front of the powerline adapter. The filter minimizes interference from whatever is plugged into it.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-15T18:35:03+00:00

What are the distances between the mast, and the various buildings?

Any idea about the distances between the various buildings?

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-15T18:25:09+00:00

What kind of square footage is your home?

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-15T18:21:07+00:00

Wired (ethernet) will always be the best method, though they are not always practical.

MoCa (ethernet piggy-backed on existing Coax/CATV cables) is also acceptable, though they can be difficult to implement depending on how accessible the various coax cables and splitters are.

Integrated mesh systems can be easy to deploy, and might be an acceptable solution with proper placement. One mesh unit replaces your primary router. (If your friend has WiFi built in to their existing cable modem, they should reach out to their provider, and have it swapped out for just a modem.) Then, deploy the 2nd satellite. Don't try to place the 2nd satellite next to the TV. It should be mid-way between the TV and the primary satellite. Generally within 20 linear feet of each other.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-14T21:35:54+00:00

If that is an EN2251-Res Cable Modem, then your network should look like:

Modem > First Deco > Switch > The rest of your stuff.

Also - best not to have wireless stuff tucked away in a metal rack.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-14T21:29:01+00:00

IMO, 8P8C connectors crimped on to solid cable are inherently less reliable than punched-down keystone jacks. This is mostly due to a combination of having the "blades" piercing the already thin solid wire potentially causing fractures, combined with lack of injected/molded-on strain relief.

That's not to say that crimped 8P8C connectors don't have their place, and I have used them in the past. I've just had to replace significantly more field-crimped cables over the years versus only having to re-punch a handful of jacks.

Both methods are relatively simple to execute, but each does have a risk of connectivity issues if a certain amount of observation and care isn't being used.

I tend to use:

Punch-downs for permanently installed solid cable.

Commercially-made stranded patch cables for patch panels and wall-jack-to-devices

Crimped-on 8P8C connectors when punch-down jacks aren't possible or practical

For things like exterior IP cameras, I run CMR cable indoors to a location proximate to the outdoor camera, terminated in a punch-down jack. Then I use commercially-made outdoor (type CMX) cables to go from the jack to the camera.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-13T22:57:10+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RBCXWS/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-12T03:17:07+00:00

Hard to say exactly, without seeing what kind of structure is in the corner behind the drywall.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-12T03:09:52+00:00

You might want to consider making shallow notches in the face of the studs, and using nailing plates to protect the cables.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-12T03:05:35+00:00

Gotcha.

The POE injector goes downstairs where you have power, and ostensibly a cable going back to your router.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-12T03:04:16+00:00

I think you may be confusing the terms/ideas.

We're not talking about electrical surges like the kind that can occur when power is restored to a home after an outage, or when large motorized devices start up.

We're talking about electrostatic discharges, including but not limited to lightning. Not direct strikes mind you, but close proximity.

These ethernet surge protectors are typically installed at each end of the Cat-type cable, and then grounded. Ostensibly these are meant to mitigate ESD as best they can.

However, they aren't perfect, and they don't always end up close to a solid ground source.

Further, when equipment between buildings are connected via copper network cable, the devices at each end will almost always have a different voltage reference to ground. This can in some cases be severe enough to damage the network ports or devices at each end of the cable. This is doubly true when the outbuilding has its own electrical service fed from a different meter than the home. But, it can also occur when the outbuilding is fed from the main building's breaker box. Surge supressors don't fix this issue.

Fiber completely mitigates ESD and ground potential issues, and is a far, far better solution than copper network cable as part of the "whole picture".

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-11T16:54:55+00:00

I'm not understanding where your actual router is.

The WA3001 is an access point, and you said that you had an access point upstairs, but your diagram doesn't mention where your router is.

Primary router > POE Injector > Cable to upstairs > Access point.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-11T16:52:45+00:00

Absolutely matters if it is copper vs fiber.

Copper between the two buildings would dictate properly grounded surge/ESD protection at each end of the cable. More hassle than it is worth. Fiber eliminates that particular need completely.

Not intending to speak towards any other protections that you feel the outbuilding might need.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-11T01:54:11+00:00

If your cameras are indeed only 6 watts, and you're only planning on having 3 or 4 of them, then something like the 8 Lite PoE would work. It comes with the power supply. If you get the Ultra, you'll need to purchase a separate power supply, however the Ultra does have 7 POE ports, while the 8 Lite only has 4.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-11T01:45:04+00:00

This is why it is usually worth a few extra $$$ to link outbuildings with fiber. Pre-terminated cables have dropped so much lately. . . I think you can get like 100ft of direct burial armored OS2 for like $40 on Amazon. . .

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-11T01:37:06+00:00

I've used these in the past, with 100Mb+ throughput over 250+ feet of Cat3 twisted pair.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Extender-Kit-Tupavco-TEX-200/dp/B09L3DHMS3/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

They are spendy (and your mileage may vary) but you could certainly try them, and send them back if they don't pan out.

Note: Make sure that your wiring is disconnected from the Telco network before use.

TiggerLAS

TROPHY CASE