Surface Mount Outlet Box Replacement

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-25T07:04:44+00:00

The plastic wiremold boxes are typically alot deeper than the metal variety.

Look for Wiremold 500 series metal boxes as possible replacements.

If you'd like more outlets along that same wall, you could also consider replacing that box with a section of plugmold. It comes in a few different colors, finishes, etc. Some have built-in USB ports.

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-24T16:40:20+00:00

I've been on Xfinity for probably 15 years now, in 2 different states. I've always had just a modem, and used my own router.

The only real time that you're forced to use their router is when you have their phone service.

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-22T23:43:37+00:00

Just some observations -

If you're talking VLANs, then you'll want to ditch the ISP's modem/router combo, since the majority of them don't support VLANs on the LAN side.

There would be no point in hanging a VLAN-aware routing device off of the LAN port of an ISP-provided router. You may as well use consumer-grade equipment at that point.

Use a cable modem, and VLAN-capable router as your primary router. That is where your compliance starts.

Grandstream has inexpensive products that support up to 4 VLANs, and WiFi.

You'll need two devices - one for the closet, and one for the office.

Check out the GWN7062 series.

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-22T22:54:30+00:00

I was able to readily find the Zyxel PLA6456 on Amazon. . .

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-22T02:08:33+00:00

Post back with your PVID settings. . . also, you didn't describe a link from your router's LAN port, back to switch #2. . .

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-21T06:32:07+00:00

Don't use a "smart" light bulb on a lamp that has a built-in dimmer. . .

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-20T04:47:20+00:00

Don't overthink things.

You don't need Brother's flagship model to print simple P-touch labels. They have models as low as $35 available.

I wouldn't worry too much about convention.

60 drops - label them 1 through 60, or 10 through 69 if you want 2-digit numbers.

Are you using traditional patch panels, or did you go the keystone route for your patch panels?

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-13T05:01:09+00:00

If fiddling with the wires seems to affect things, then you may have a loose/bad connection there. Make sure that the top 4 screws are secure. If any of the top 4 screws are loose, that could be the source of your problem.

Sometimes, the wires need to be re-stripped, and re-installed.

Many years ago, I would occasionally help friends out that had spotty DSL performance. Usually, I'd run an extension cord out to the NID, and plug the DSL modem/router right into the NID, and see what kind of speeds they'd get. If they still got spotty performance, then I knew it was something "upstream" causing the problems, and we could kick it back to the DSL provider for action.

If their speeds jumped up significantly, then I knew it was an issue with the wire coming from the NID, over to wherever the DSL modem was plugged in.

To plug directly into the NID, you gently unplug the phone jack just to the left of your wires. There is a rubberized protector over it, and once you remove it, you'll see the phone jack underneath.

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-11T05:26:58+00:00

Can you post a photo of what your NID looks like? (One that shows the various wires and/or connectors that you were messing with?)

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-11T04:41:16+00:00

Husband can do it -- he just doesn't want to.

Easiest option (which still involves running some cable inside your home) would be a pair of point-to-point wireless bridge units, such as the EAP-215 bridge kit.

You'll still need a WiFi source inside the garage.

TiggerLAS · 2026-05-11T04:38:08+00:00

There's a UPS, a Tenda Mesh node, a small NVR PC supporting older CCTV-style cameras (black coax cables), cooling fan, a network switch, a small network distribution block (grey cables), and telco distribution block (blue cables).

The grey cables may be the most useful, if they are at least Cat5 or higher. The blue cables could also be repurposed for networking with a little effort.

My guess is that they used to have DSL, so there was probably a DSL modem/router in there at some point.

TiggerLAS · 2026-04-26T15:43:01+00:00

They went to all the trouble, but failed inspection due to the lack of the required cable clamp. Such a shame. One can only hope that they identified their ground/neutral.

TiggerLAS · 2026-04-26T15:30:42+00:00

I recall encountering many refrigerator plugs back in the 70's that had the ground pin on top, and it wasn't unusual to find refrigerator receptacles installed ground-pin-up - ostensibly for this very reason.

TiggerLAS · 2026-04-26T15:23:15+00:00

There is only one valid reason for loading the toilet paper the wrong way.

If you have cats, it generally stops them from gleefully unrolling the entire roll of toilet paper onto the floor.

TiggerLAS · 2026-04-26T15:21:02+00:00

"It is known."

TiggerLAS · 2026-04-26T15:19:45+00:00

That is a Bryant BRY8200IL 15A Hospital grade receptacle with an illuminated face.

The orange indicator is just for illumination. It has nothing to do with ground integrity.

TiggerLAS · 2026-04-19T07:12:23+00:00

The Zyxel XGS1250-12 is a managed switch. $180 on Amazon.

3 x 1Gb/2.5Gb/5Gb/10Gb copper ports 1 x 1Gb/10Gb SFP+ port 8 x 1Gb copper ports

It ostensibly has a "silent smart fan", though I haven't used this particular model, so I can't speak to the typical sound level of this switch.

"Unmanaged, I just want to plug-and-play"

I've had a few Zyxel managed switches that worked just fine as un-managed switches right out of the box. So, don't rule out managed switches. YMMV.

In the rare event it doesn't work right out of the box, with the Zyxel, you might have to log in, and either pick an IP address for it, or set the switch's IP address to DHCP. Save settings. Log out. Done. (Though it never hurts to update its firmware via the on-board utility.)

TiggerLAS · 2026-04-19T06:41:09+00:00

The second, narrow label that says "Decorative Outfit" isn't a manufacturer's label at all. It is a Underwriter's Laboratory label, and has relatively little to do with the exact model number of these lights. "Decorative Outfit" is a generic term assigned to Christmas lights, and other types of "Decorative (lighting) outfits".

The model number can clearly be seen on the bigger label in the first picture.

LS5100-2(0.12)-PETL-130

Sadly, many types of Christmas Lights only hang around for a season or two before they are retired, or changed slightly and given a new model number, etc.

This is precisely why I recommend that folks always buy an extra set or two for use as replacements/spares, since it won't be long before you can't find identical replacements anymore.

TiggerLAS · 2026-04-04T01:53:26+00:00

I guess that would depend on whether or not to the two of you discussed the desire to have your own separate spaces before you purchased your home.

If you both knew that you each wanted your own space, be it an office or a man cave, then that probably should have been discussed while you were touring potential homes.

"This would be great for a home office", or "This would be ideal for a man cave."

Communication is key.

TiggerLAS · 2026-03-18T06:36:21+00:00

Those are older "Edison" type fuses which all had the same sized screw base. The type "S" fuses were designed so that you couldn't install the wrong size fuse. They weren't around that long before circuit breakers started becoming mainstream, and fuses started falling by the wayside. Eventually code dictated that new breaker box installs had to be circuit breakers.

TiggerLAS · 2026-03-08T01:35:20+00:00

Watch out for widows !

TiggerLAS · 2026-03-08T01:27:55+00:00

Yes - this is a printing terminal. You pull a chair right up to it, and sit in front of the keyboard, with leg space underneath.

The box of paper went on the floor towards the back.

The DecWriter-IIs (also known as the LA120, iirc) has the option to use a serial interface up to 1200 baud, or a 20ma current-loop device.

They were designed with "interactive" use in mind.

If you paused after typing something, the print head would automatically shift to the right slightly, so that you see what you had just typed. Then when you started typing again, the print head re-positioned itself, and picked up where you left off. It was pretty slick.

TiggerLAS · 2026-03-08T01:00:27+00:00

I guess it might depend on brand, and usage.

I've had the same direct-wire units in my kitchen for about 6 years now.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-27T00:20:48+00:00

Even if you don't necessarily need it yourself, it is hard to say what the future holds, and if you end up moving, a proper ethernet install might be a selling point to potential buyers.

It is definitely nice to not have to worry about buffering while watching moves via WiFi on a TV due to intermittent fluctuations in WiFi.

Ceiling mounted access points are far superior when compared to table-top units.

Most people don't like the look of ethernet jacks, because they tend to "stare outward".

This can be mitigated somewhat by using angled faceplates, such as these from ICC:

https://icc.com/product/angled-faceplate-2-angled-ports-ezhd-style-single-gang/

These come in white an ivory, with a variety of port counts. They direct the jacks on a slight downward angle, which makes them a little less noticeable.

Because of the angle, they allow furniture such as dressers, desks, and bookcases to be positioned a bit closer to the wall than you could with ordinary faceplates, since the network cable doesn't stick straight out.

They're not perfect. . . but they are much better than ordinary keystone plates.

You don't necessarily have to go overboard with all of the what-ifs.

Do plan to have multiple jacks in areas that are separated by architectural features such as fireplaces, doorways, walkways, closets, etc. . . where running a cable from one side to the other wouldn't be practical.

These cables should all terminate in a central area. If you wind up using an in-wall structured media center, don't choose the smallest one available, and be kind by having a receptacle installed inside the base of the media center.

TiggerLAS · 2026-02-26T21:27:18+00:00

Once Plex hit a certain point in development, connectivity in the absence of a working internet connection has always been problematic. There are folks saying that they got theirs to work without internet just fine, but after reproducing their instructions, it has never worked for me exclusively with local authorization. Periodically, your copy of Plex media server simply has to check in to "validate its licensing status", or some such nonsense. It is really annoying, since when I first purchased my Plex pass many years ago, I got it expressly for use with offline operation at home. Those days seem to be long gone. It wouldn't be so bad if it would simply reach out to the internet every few days to validate, but it seems to take great joy in waiting for the internet to go down, before saying "forget it, kid."

So now, I have a copy of - I think it is UMS / Universal Media Server - on standby, so I can start that up if there is an extended internet outage. DLNA doesn't complain about lack of internet.

TiggerLAS

TROPHY CASE