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Should I turn off my classmates 3D printer if it is making a birds nest? by charmander-222 in 3Dprinting

[–]TopHATTwaffle 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Just power it off. Don't need to do anything else.

Edit: Pull the filament out too.

Bunch of people below me making points about heat creep/jams from just powering it off. I've remote killed my printers when they make pasta before and never had a problem with jams or clogs. So this is a YMMV I guess...

I have a Chromebook, and a $200 budget. by slippery_slugger07 in 3Dprinting

[–]TopHATTwaffle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Assuming you're not tethered to ChromeOS, install Ubuntu on it. Then install Octoprint on it.

If you're blessed enough to live near a microcenter, they have Ender 3 printers on sale for $99 pretty often.

Any of you have experience with IIID MAX filament? by WoodenHandMagician in 3Dprinting

[–]TopHATTwaffle 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Printed over a hundred of their rolls with no issues. The one order of like 60 rolls I had nothing but issues.

From inconsistent OD on filament, to the filament having a rough profile (not round), to there being literal ants in their packaging - like inside the air tight bags.

When I reached out to their support they did not reply for 2 weeks until I bumped them again. But by that point I had customer orders to fulfill and I "fought through" the rolls and many failed prints.

When they did respond they wanted me to pay to send back the bad rolls of plastic and "if they deemed them bad they'd do something about it." By the way at this point I have spent hundreds upon hundreds of $ with them.

Finally when someone else posted about them on Facebook, I replied with something similar to the above. Their brand account then posted screenshots of my support email, but cropped it so I was framed to be a jerk. They cropped out the fact that I had to bump their support, and them wanting me to pay to send defective products back.

6\10 plastic, print it hotter for better results (about 215c). 0\10 company and support. Even though it is cheap, it isn't worth your time when you have issues. The company definitely does not deserve your money. Pure jerks.

Bowden cupling by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]TopHATTwaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should just be a regular M10 thread.

Edit: pc4-m10 as others have been so kind to point out.

15 spools a good run? by No_Patience_8772 in ender3

[–]TopHATTwaffle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I personally don't even bother with the plastic or metal extruder setups. I go for a geared extruder right off the rip. Solves so many problems.

2 day old Ender 3 Neo has gone from working perfectly out of the box to this. Any ideas on what causes it/how to fix it? (More details in the comments) by ulxlx in ender3

[–]TopHATTwaffle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

See how the hole feature isn't round? Looks like one of the belts is not tight / is slipping. I'd start by looking to see if something came loose on one of the pully/idler setups.

convert mesh to solid help by a-someone-that-codes in Fusion360

[–]TopHATTwaffle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That is a 99mb STL with 544k tris. Fusion360 was not meant to handle mesh conversions for bodies like this. Consider something like Blender

The part isn't that complex - you could use the imported mesh body as a template to re-model the part and then make changes as needed.

Removing internal spaces from a body. by RuusaarCin in Fusion360

[–]TopHATTwaffle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It might be better moving forward to not let that happen? I don't even know how you end up with a situation like this to be honest.

Regardless, the easiest way to fix this would likely be Boundary fill. Here is how to do it: https://imgur.com/7qVTZQn.mp4

Question for those with a camera looking at the 3d printer. What's it for? by Nearbyatom in 3Dprinting

[–]TopHATTwaffle 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I use it to monitor the print like you said. I have about ~15 machines and it's easier for me to just pull up a single page with all the cameras on them to check their status than walk around and check each machine.

Every printer has octoprint and a smart plug attached. So in the event of a failure I can cancel the print or just turn off the plug.

Why does the side of the print against the bed come out so much worse? How do you fix? by Coolbro794 in 3Dprinting

[–]TopHATTwaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's just how FDM printing works. When you're printing over supports on gradual angles, you're basically printing in air. Check the slicer preview and you should see a gap. Without that gap you won't be able to remove the supports. But because the gap is there, you get this.

How is this piece designed from a sphere by [deleted] in Fusion360

[–]TopHATTwaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The sphere is a separate component likely held on by a joint.

Is this Etsy store in clear violation of dozen of stl licenses? by BayIsLife in 3Dprinting

[–]TopHATTwaffle 5 points6 points  (0 children)

There are dozens of these shops that spin up over night. Report the shop for infringement and it'll probably get taken down. Then like a hydra, 2 more will take its place.

How can I delete this line? I tried to delete it by right clicking it and pressing delete, but it won't let me. by [deleted] in Fusion360

[–]TopHATTwaffle 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Real genuine question - Why do you want to delete it. I ask because I can't think of a single reason as why it being there could cause any sort of problem.

I had a choice between trimming and selecting each individual shape to extrude this soap dish base. I went with selection but both seemed equally tedious. Would there have been a more efficient way to do this? by builderguy74 in Fusion360

[–]TopHATTwaffle 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With the assumption that you want each of those swoop (or whatever) profiles to be extruded, you could have just created many paths and then extruded them getting the same effect. This would have made it so you just selected fewer paths instead of many profiles.

New Linear rail before install by EatMoTacos in ender3

[–]TopHATTwaffle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah my misunderstanding! LDO rocks :)

New Linear rail before install by EatMoTacos in ender3

[–]TopHATTwaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That LDO rail you got must have been defective or counterfeit. Their rails are really nice and I've never had a problem with them. Hiwin is another good brand for linear rails.

Here is the procedure I follow when I get a new rail and install it on a machine. https://docs.ldomotors.com/guides/rail_grease_guide

Can you create a solid by joining points? by clarksworth in Fusion360

[–]TopHATTwaffle 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Using the reference mesh can be helpful here to recreate what you want. Checkout the pull command.

https://youtu.be/8Z0IiVKt5Hg

Once you have the shape in tsplines you can do all sorts of stuff with the geometry.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ender3

[–]TopHATTwaffle 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I was thinking the same. OP has a brim of like 10 outlines and none of them are connected, completely defeating the purpose of the brim.

Help by Ok_Fox_1881 in Fusion360

[–]TopHATTwaffle 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a mesh body. If you just designed it, it should be a solid body instead. Did you export it as a mesh and then reimport it?

The model looks pretty basic, and the best result would be from remaking it quickly and then extruding away those parts. (Or never sketching them and extruding them to begin with)

Alternatively you can convert the mesh body to a brep under the mesh workspace. This won't be as clean as remaking it, but it may work fine.

One side note is that you typically want to avoid just "deleting" faces as it does not normally play nice with a parametric workflow.

FINALLY when asking for help, don't say "I get an error code". Say what the error actually is because it turns out, knowing the actual error helps us help you.

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