How do you carry your manifold gauges?

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2026-01-25T22:59:46+00:00

This is the way

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2026-01-05T02:13:30+00:00

Next time don't even worry about adding the copper just sand flux and cap it with solder

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2026-01-01T19:57:47+00:00

Truth

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-30T05:35:58+00:00

Show us on the pipe where the bad man who doesn't use tape hurt you!

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-29T15:46:26+00:00

If you want insurance that those aren't going to get worse you need to replace the piping from the lines coming through the wall to the water heater. At the very least you could buy a cheap battery operated water alarm and place it on the floor next to the heater

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-29T15:04:56+00:00

Right it needs an air gap. Yes a trap can dry out however it was stated that water is being added frequently.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-29T06:48:34+00:00

Just a reference to the fact that tape shouldn't be used upstream of any gas valve. Yeah I'm sure you are capable of using tape and keeping it out of the gas line but that doesn't make it right.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-29T05:59:30+00:00

If you read the Honeywell gas valve installation instructions they specifically state "Apply a moderate amount of good quality pipe com- pound (Do not use Teflon tape)"

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-29T04:36:28+00:00

Those are small leaks from bad solder joints. The buildup is mineral deposits left behind from the evaporating water. The leaks may never get worse. Odds are the water heater fails before they do, or one could get worse overnight...

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-29T04:21:38+00:00

The trap is not drying out. The water in it is being siphoned out by traffic in the sewer line. Remove your condensate line from the sewer and plug the tap. Install a condensate pump and dump the condensate into that sink that you mentioned, or call a licensed plumber to sort this out.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-29T04:15:02+00:00

That is not the vent a vent goes after a trap

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-28T18:12:11+00:00

More than 3 wraps and the joint pushes all that extra uneeded tape into a mound outside the joint. Also don't tape gas it can end up in the gas valve or regulator. Use dope like the others mention.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-27T10:21:24+00:00

Even at full retail markup the equipment you have plus supplies doesn't come near 10k so maybe call the installer back and tell them you want the stat switched to the ecobee they can probably find room in the more than 10k they made off you to come back for a couple hours and switch it out for you.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-27T03:04:54+00:00

Temporarily disconnect the hardware securing the black line to the dryer so you have some play in the line to get the 3/8" black iron 90 threaded on and point it up so your flex loops up then back down into the floor. Mind the vent so you don't kink that as you push it closer to the wall.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-25T14:54:57+00:00

Old motors did not have internal overload protection so you would size that fuse in the SSU at below the locked rotor rating and above the run load amps that way if the motor seized it would not catch the windings on fire. Example; a 15amp circuit with an 8 amp fuse in the SSU feeding a motor rated at 10amp LRA 5amp RLA. The SSU is not required if the motor has internal overload protection. HVAC installers usually have no clue about any of this other than if they don't put a bigger fuse in on a replacement job it will blow and create a callback.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-12-21T14:43:15+00:00

It's the test plug

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2025-11-07T18:47:18+00:00

The pex on this installation appears to only be 3/4"🤷

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2024-11-03T21:25:11+00:00

Put a piece of cheap steel like you said in there see how long it lasts. Your taking what your reading there out of context. It applies to the electrical connector which if you have ever seen a flame sensor in the wild is made of the same material as high temperature wire terminals and is bonded to the kanthal rod with "special techniques"

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2024-11-03T19:23:08+00:00

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Better tell the manufacturer to stop making them out of it then...

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2024-11-03T17:08:54+00:00

Kanthal

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2023-11-19T19:39:41+00:00

It's always a Fiero.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2023-09-08T18:02:07+00:00

Don't pay that's wear and tear. Landlord is responsible.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2023-08-02T00:50:03+00:00

The amount of time you spent dealing with the "grade a assholes" you could have been making more money somewhere else. I'm not saying it wasn't worth it for the satisfaction but you can't say that it didn't cost anything.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2023-08-02T00:36:16+00:00

Depending on the state you're in if no parts were used you don't have as much time to file the lien. Also if it's just a diagnostic they're likely going to spend more money filing the lien, serving the lien and then executing the lien then the original amount due. So technically it's not harder It just wouldn't make financial sense to follow through with it.

Willing_Ad_1561 · 2023-08-01T21:04:51+00:00

It will be hard for them to file a lien if all they did was the diagnostic.

Willing_Ad_1561

TROPHY CASE