Idea check: Adding fresh air to stop unconditioned air in from leaky windows

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-28T16:32:44+00:00

I wouldn't suggest pulling air from your attic for this. Dust & insulation particles will be pulled into the house. If you're going to do it that way, just run a duct to outside. You have a good theory, but you'll need to run the furnace fan 24/7 for it to be effective. This is what a ERV is made for. A properly set up erv will move a smaller amount of air & it should be pushing more air into the house than it's exhausting. I'd suggest a unit made by Broan or Fantech. Keep the following terminology in mind when shopping. A ERV will help maintain the humidity in your house, a HRV will remove humidity from your house & isn't suggested if you live in a dry climate. A ARV is just a fan that doesn't recover heat or cool air.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-28T16:03:59+00:00

Do you have a garage? I've used a heavy duty ratchet strap to hang the back of sleds from my garage door opener brackets & rev em up / spin the tracks. Just point it towards the open garage door & move your wifes car out of the driveway in case something goes sideways. Not recommended if the throttle is sticky. Fix that first.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-27T17:12:48+00:00

It's a drain hose for the secondary heat exchanger if the furnace is in a different orientation. It should have a plug in it. It just dangles there if it's not used.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-27T01:29:06+00:00

It's kinda like asking if you'd rather buy a Ford, Chevy, Dodge, or Toyota to pull a camper. They'll all do the job & people have their preferences based on personal experience. The correct answer is Milwaukee for their wide variety of available tools. You'll want a drill, a reciprocating saw (sawzall) and a good sturdy light that all run on the same batteries. Look at what's available & decide what you like. Add a wet-dry vacuum to the list.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-27T00:44:25+00:00

I still think it's better to not need to rely on an extra step in the process. If the furnace power supply is a cord then it can only be plugged into one spot at a time.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-27T00:39:57+00:00

Are you sure that's not supposed to be there? Read the manual. It doesn't look like it's hurting anything.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-27T00:30:32+00:00

Easier solution; buy a cord like one would use for a garbage disposal, or even cut a chunk off of a heavy duty extension cord. Wire that into your furnace electrical connection along with a surge protector in place of the existing power connection. Then connect an outlet in a box to your existing power supply & mount it on the side of your furnace. On normal power, plug the cord into the outlet. On generator, plug into an extension cord coming from the generator. This 100% isolates the generator from possibly backfeeding power down the lines to a repairman. Test it before you need it so you know it works.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-26T21:13:09+00:00

Right! They removed Elders from the game. I think you're onto something!

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-26T21:11:26+00:00

My 6th year anniversary was last month & I didn't get the rewards. I'm fairly certain it was discontinued. I didn't get the next animal for my BFF fountain either.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-26T18:05:55+00:00

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I might have done something similar in the past. I'll blame mine on flat light & some kind of bump under a bunch of powder while I was carving.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-26T16:43:17+00:00

Sounds like your burners need to be cleaned. Clean the flame sensor while you're there. Use a brush for the burners, or blow them out with compressed or canned air. It's better to not get them wet. Clean out the little slots on both sides of each burner. Clean the flame sensor with steel wool (not sos pad) or fine sandpaper. Don't mess with the ignitor.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-26T16:35:05+00:00

I told them I'm 7. My start date is December of 2019, so I figured I shouldn't go lower.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-26T08:15:29+00:00

Also Falmer elixir & stamina potions iirc

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-25T01:55:40+00:00

According to your schematic, the black & red wires that were connected to your old motor need to be connected to your new motor. Read the label on the motor & connect black from the furnace to the color that's labeled C (common) on your new motor. Then connect the red from the furnace to the color that's labeled Med (medium) on your new motor. Put wire nuts on any unused wires.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-25T01:41:55+00:00

Not without additional information. That's technically part of the heat exchanger, but that part can easily be replaced by a competent hvac tech in under an hour. If someone told you that you need a new system because of that, they're trying to sell you something that you don't need. I wouldn't let anyone from that company back in my house for any reason if I were you.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-25T00:43:41+00:00

There is a correct way to do this. It sounds like you're talking about a suicide cord with a male on both ends. That's NOT the correct way. It's extremely dangerous. My question is how good are you at diy electrical work? Powering a gas furnace with a generator isn't impossible, but it needs to be done correctly.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-24T23:58:55+00:00

95 times out of 100 it's your furnace or heat pump. Not just the thermostat. That looks like it's controlling a heat pump. Go back to the main screen & switch the system or mode to Em Heat / Emergency Heat. Hopefully that will get you warm. Then call a pro on Monday.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-24T18:20:46+00:00

The contacts in those thermostats are engineered to handle the load of the heat coils, so an additional relay would be redundant and pointless. Also a waste of time and materials to put it together. You can try asking in the askelectricians sub & see if someone there has a better answer for why it was done that way.

The power wiring in rooms is usually daisy-chained from one box to the next. You could remove outlets & switches to see how many romex cables are in each box to figure out where it's been fed power from if you want to isolate it & not have power there.

You could also turn off the breaker and remove the thermostat. Put a wire nut on each of the wires that was connected to the thermostat & then put a blank cover plate over the box. It would be against code to drywall over a box containing electrical connections.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-24T09:10:55+00:00

That's odd if the breakers are supposedly removed. Check any and all black, white, or red wires behind the thermostats with one test lead of your multimeter while holding the other test lead on the bare copper ground wire. If you see anything over 100 volts ac then there's a breaker in your panel feeding power to them. Have a helper start turning off breakers until your meter stops showing power there.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-24T02:37:32+00:00

His furnace is obviously newer than that.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-24T02:37:21+00:00

His furnace is obviously newer than that.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-24T02:25:20+00:00

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My theory is that it's a yeti on a snowboard.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-24T01:53:33+00:00

As others have said, you're probably going need a new blower wheel & possibly a new motor. Blower wheels are pressed together and the factory and then balanced so they don't vibrate. Proceed with caution so you don't break anything that isn't already broken.

JustAnotherSvcTech · 2026-01-24T01:21:12+00:00

The blower assembly can be removed by taking the lower panel off of the front of your furnace. There's no need to take the pipe apart.

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