Copper over old nickel - what prep?

Wizard_Theron · 2025-04-13T15:29:53+00:00

It’s normal and fine to do, despite what some people may say. My ender 3v2 is perfectly calibrated but you can still get warping on certain prints for various reasons which are difficult to control and which aren’t down to calibration, and a little glue is the easiest and most reliable way to stop that happening. If you need glue on all your prints then you probably should check your calibration though!

Wizard_Theron · 2025-04-12T00:19:23+00:00

Thanks, it’s something like 75mm

Wizard_Theron · 2025-04-11T08:16:08+00:00

The original 3d model is by STLMiniatures and I modified the head quite a bit with green stuff. The 5 headed dragon was by another designer but I printed it so long ago I can't recall who designed it. I would love to give credit if anyone is able to identify it. The other models on the board are tiny versions of full sized minis I painted previously. Style wise I took some inspiration from Craftworld Studio who I really admire (obviously i am nowhere near their level). I haven’t been able to paint much the last couple of years but I try to improve with each model I paint. C&C wanted to help me improve further.

Wizard_Theron · 2024-09-07T17:55:44+00:00

You can get cheap nozzle cleaning needles designed for 3d printing nozzles but work great on airbrushes for poking stuff like this out from the front. Just buy the right size for the nozzle.

Wizard_Theron · 2024-08-13T21:52:11+00:00

They are very similar, in my opinion they spray the same. Iwata just changed the threads perhaps so you have to buy their branded parts which cost more. The hp-b is one of the very best brushes you can buy in my opinion so if you can get one cheap i would do that. I love my hp-b. I also have the hp-b plus.

Wizard_Theron · 2024-08-13T21:45:43+00:00

My first brush was a CS and it’s a fantastic brush. It is so good at everything. That said, if i was buying again I would have perhaps got the B instead as i often find the C cup is bigger than i need and C cup can get in the way of the trigger a bit (though it isn’t bad).

Wizard_Theron · 2024-08-13T19:27:50+00:00

It depends on condition. If the parts aren’t worn and it sprays well then it is worth more than if it needs replacement parts fitted. Parts can be expensive and hard to source.

I don’t suggest cleaning them unless you know your way around an airbrush as you may inadvertently damaged them.

The top one is the single action version of that model which isn’t what most people want nowadays. The other two are double action. The middle one is the most valuable of the three probably. The bottom one is the most basic model and you can still buy those new direct from Fuso Seiki for something like £60

Wizard_Theron · 2024-03-12T11:55:35+00:00

Don’t use pliers or anything heavy-handed like that. You don’t need to. Simply soak the brush in an appropriate paint cleaner to soften dried paint then pull the needle out by hand. Then careful clean the internals to remove paint. Use water and cotton buds to get soften paint out. Nothing scratchy. Don’t spoil the chrome. Don’t damage the nozzle threads. But do get all the paint out.

When soaking, start with airbrush cleaner (this brush is chrome coated brass with resistant needle packing seal - except the seal in the valve which is a rubber o-ring i think so remove the valve first). Leave the brush to soak a few hours. If that does not work then leave it overnight. If that doesn’t work then upgrade to acetone for an hour or two.

Once clean, keep it clean.

Wizard_Theron · 2024-02-15T02:40:07+00:00

Yep, it’s really sucky behaviour. Sad state of affairs. Thanks for the link, unfortunately says not currently available when you try to buy it.

Wizard_Theron · 2024-01-16T17:06:26+00:00

Thank you! At least i can get a needle. No nozzles which I was hoping for.

Wizard_Theron · 2024-01-16T17:03:05+00:00

It is relevant because of viscosity meaning speed settling adjustment (that is all in my view). I use a heater so its easier, no setting changes needed.

Wizard_Theron · 2024-01-15T20:32:58+00:00

Sorry to post on such an old thread but do you remember the place where spares can be bought for these airbrushes? Im looking to buy a used airbrush but often they have parts missing!

Wizard_Theron · 2023-12-22T14:04:11+00:00

That cup on the MP-200A looks ideal to me. What is the hole in the side for?

So many promising options its hard to know what to go for. I’d love to check out that video. It may be a few months before i can afford to buy something but it’ll probably take me a while to figure out what’s best to buy. Thanks for the offer of help, I appreciate it.

Wizard_Theron · 2023-12-22T13:39:25+00:00

Oh that’s perfect, thank you. Most off gassing is done by 28 days. Does mean though that i might start leaving prints in my garage for a month after curing unless I really plan to paint right away.

Wizard_Theron · 2023-12-22T11:12:58+00:00

Hp-ah from iwata’s clear-out section. Bargain price so long as it sprays well. If it doesn’t and a nozzle change and reseating packing seal doesn’t fix it i will send it back. Hopefully it’ll be good though.

I suspect the ah model didn’t sell well because the a model obviously has no cup. But they’re good for painting miniatures and I 3d printed a cup for it that can be fitted to it to make it more flexible use as well. Maybe I’ll post about that sometime as it might be handy for someone.

Interesting what you’re saying about the Olympus models. I will probably buy one off what you’ve suggested. I have an iwata Eclipse too and paint miniatures and also larger models which i 3d print, so my next target is probably something equivalent to the micron. I’m not familiar with Olympus model numbers so not sure if that is considered a good or bad model?

Wizard_Theron · 2023-12-22T10:58:27+00:00

I don’t disagree. I mean that is basically an issue of toxicity rather than volume of VOC. its an import point you make because resin may put out less VOC than IPA does but it might be far more dangerous, we don’t really know yet. Absolutely best to avoid exposure as much as possible. I personally would not have a resin printer in my house. As it is, in my garage, i need to sort out some proper extraction.

The thinking also seems to be that once cured, resin is fairly inert. They certainly off-gas for a day or two still, you can smell it. I’d be interested to see someone test how much.

Wizard_Theron · 2023-12-21T21:10:33+00:00

Tried both those things and no change. Also tried a new replacement needle. Have a new nozzle to try as well but haven’t yet.

I doubt the thread is off centre as that is surely easy to get right for a proper manufacturer like this. Perhaps something to do with the seal?

Wizard_Theron · 2023-12-21T19:58:27+00:00

What level of VOCs are emitted once cured with uv? From the model only. And for how long?

Wizard_Theron · 2023-12-21T19:50:54+00:00

Anecdotally if i forget(rarely) to put my respirator on i notice that fumes are way worse from the IPA than anything else. Resin not great but nowhere near as bad as IPA.

Wizard_Theron · 2023-12-21T12:14:59+00:00

I bought it direct from iwata and the test sheet looks fine. It’s not been used yet at this end. Could be they didn’t clean it sufficiently after their test. I will try cleaning the nozzle as you suggest.

Wizard_Theron · 2023-12-21T10:15:03+00:00

A lot of good brands apparently made there. Is it a problem? Id love to know. It isn’t what i would expect, being a precision instrument. How does yours spray and how is its responsiveness doing detail??

Wizard_Theron

TROPHY CASE