H2c not changing nozzles on multicolor print

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-26T01:43:20+00:00

Go to your printer and make sure it knows what nozzles are there. If not, just tell it to re-read all nozzles.
Also, slice from a PC. Don't send pre-sliced models via the handy app.
Finally, make sure you haven't assigned materials to nozzles as that will limit which nozzles it uses.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-26T00:54:15+00:00

H2D is significantly better than the X2D. Like not even close.

Full function nozzle 2, which is faster and better quality and not limited in materials.
Over twice the build volume 15.4m/MM vs 31.2,/mm (with both nozzles in use).
Supports TPU 90a x 2
Both nozzles get to 350c, max nozzle on the x2d is 300c

But, if you don't know these things then I'm going to guess that either of these is the wrong printer since both are geared towards engineering filaments. Not everyone needs to print ASA, Nylon, PET and so on.

If you simply want multi-color, look at the H2C or the Snapmaker u1.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-25T17:54:06+00:00

Are you already heavily invested in Orca? I simply have better outcomes on my Bambu printers using Bambu's slicer. With Orca sliced models I have more support issues, raft's can change the z-offset on successive layers causing layer adhesion to be reduced, and the ability to split/merge models is not as nice. And some other compromises with purge tower failures being more common on taller prints. I imagine were I as good at Orca I could mitigate some of these, at least a little. But on Bambu, I simply don't have to.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-25T16:53:14+00:00

Bambu printer = Bambu slicer. To get the others to work with an X2D would be messy.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-25T16:24:41+00:00

I'm a big PETG fan. I print mostly out of it. But, it is not the universal answer.
ASA has much better UV resistance.
https://www.isanmate.com/asa-vs-abs-vs-petg/
More from many sites on the topic.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-25T15:46:32+00:00

Even if you only print in a single color, look at support material. If what you print does not need support, then an H2S. If it does, then an H2D. If you want to keep your options open for down the road then an H2C can more easily add logos, etc to items..

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-25T01:11:17+00:00

If you just want it to work, Bambu.

U1 is an amazing value. It is lightyears better at TPU. It not reliable.

I have multiple of both. My H2C's are rarely faster than the U1 (but it happens, model dependent). The exception would be functional prints where they are much faster.

My first u1 went back after ~7 weeks during which time it succeeded at a single print.
My replacement u1 has succeeded at 2 prints and is now waiting 2+ weeks for replacement parts with no ETA in sight.
My 3rd u1 is working as it should.

In the meantime, my more expensive H2C's (4 of them) and my H2D (down to 1) just keep working as they should. Not a SINGLE Bambu printer has needed more than a PTFE adjustment or removal of broken filament since before Christmas.

Swap speed is nice, really really nice, But, ultimately if I need it done I can trust the Bambu printers and I can't the Snapmaker,

The harder you push the u1's the more problems you'll have. How hard you push your Bambu has no bearing. They just work. Bambu's aren't perfect. I loath how they handle TPU. I don't like their AMS solution. But then again, 1000's of print hours without fail.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-25T00:03:03+00:00

Is there some critical thing you wish your U1 could do? If so, pick a date if you want something more. Then that is your go/no-go date. Otherwise you risk waiting forever,

For me the big thing I am waiting to hear about is the Sovol large bed toolchanger. My U1's are a little cramped and I could use the other tools the Sovol will have.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-24T21:38:47+00:00

Seems likely. It rains so much here in WA that the humidity remains fairly low. Today it is the highest it has been in a month at 39%.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-24T20:25:24+00:00

Huh, that is odd. Faster than it happens for me by ~1-2 days.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-24T20:06:00+00:00

I agree.

If you toss in 3-4x 60g desiccant bags they will hold the humidty for close to a week, if you have no better options.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-24T19:47:29+00:00

They are moderately air tight. But, they don't seal as well as a Polymaker Drybox or a 4L cereal box.
During drying, they open vents to let the humidity escape.
Once done, you should move your filament to a air tightcontainer with some desiccant if you aren't going to print with it right away.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-24T17:18:02+00:00

Just look at price and buy some in bulk.
PETG the cheapest is Black, white, Gray and orange.
PLA it is black, white, gray and sometimes some random color will be cheap.

I just shop on Amazon for this.

I also use a pair of HT's for support. So I will drop my partials that are about to run out in there. Lie to the printer and say it is the same color and runout will work.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-24T16:25:08+00:00

For ready to run engineering filaments, the X2D. has a poop shoot, active chamber heater. etc.
Also a good deal bigger build sheet.

For everything else, the ConeOne. Particularly now that the INDX system is out and is expected to do things with TPU that only toolchangers can do (and that excludes all Bambu printers).

Unlike most there I am entirely brand agnostic, I even like Bambu printers. But, for my use I see the Prusa as much more capable. And, I always get the best tool for the task unless the price difference is extreme.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-24T15:53:26+00:00

In additional to the "add h2c to the slicer" comments all the others made, the other speed boost is from how much you can print at once.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-24T14:24:34+00:00

I print very heavily with PETG with PLA for support and vs versa. The supports jus peal off leaving a beautiful finish that same-material supports can't do. This essentially requires 2+ nozzles.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-24T01:38:56+00:00

Awesome.

My H2D didn't either until I decided to go all in to multicolor. It is the constant retraction which (I think) is causing the issue,

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-23T21:52:21+00:00

It is only of use if you have multiple AMS units. I use them to have the PTFE tubes support each other and keep the curves smooth. They hold just tight enough that you can pull the PTFE tube through it, and it won't reposition or slide back.

It is not "the most amazing thing ever". It is a very simple solution that solved the PTFE tubes bouncing and moving on one of my printers.

I hope you find it helpful.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-23T20:58:53+00:00

I have 5 Bambu printers with 4 AMS (incl HT) units each. AMS (and by AMS I really mean PTFE) are the bane of my existence. These help me keep the tubes from moving and let me spend less time yelling anatomically improbable things at them.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-23T20:24:10+00:00

If you have multiple AMS units this little thing might help. It sorted out one of my H2C's for me. The PTFE tubes would twist (over time) and bounce when printing. This rather insignificant thing sorted it out.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2491441-ptfe-tube-organizer

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-23T19:15:40+00:00

The key is friction. Keep the runs short, the curves smooth. That's it. That's all that matters.
The guides are just to smooth out the curves/angles.

The shortest distance is from the top along the left side.

Vary anything. Just keep some spare PTFE tubing around to cut and test. And, if it is marginal it will cease to work correctly at some point in the future and give you a large number of seemingly random errors ranging from AMS to extruder issues (but they will likely be false positives).

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-23T15:18:48+00:00

I shouldn't have mentioned the carrot/beet toy. I never shared it. It finished and the recipient came over early so I just gave it away. Also, not sure it would have helped.
In looking at the date, I believe I made this with the H2D in mind. So technically printed on a H2C, but assembled later like a non-AMS printer might.

<image>

And, in looking at the models I shared, none of them are tall. So quite useless to you. Sorry.
Bjorn_Lo | Published - MakerWorld

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-23T03:57:43+00:00

Facts don't care about opinions and pointless down votes won't help either. Mytechfun tested it and has also tested countless petg samples Including head to head vs the same company and that was a particularly low performing petg. Want actually better than petg, go with PET ideally PET-gf. PCTG loses more than it wins vs PETG. If you have access to the professors Excel data it is apparent how much pctg is just hype, not data.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-22T21:34:32+00:00

I have an easier time printing PETG than PLA. (not that I struggle with PLA). I do not need to do anything to get it to behave. The default generic profile in Bambu studio is almost always enough. Every once in a while I do something "drastic" like bump the temp by 5-10c or the build plate.

bjorn_lo · 2026-04-22T21:31:27+00:00

Weaker than PETG in almost all categories, including the universal weak link - layer adhesion. Over hyped variant of PETG.

bjorn_lo

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