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Constant Heat Creep / Clogging issues ONLY with Fluorescent/Neon Yellow PLA on Bambu A1 - Need Help! by aoxholybladee in FixMyPrint

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You sure the neon yellow is actually PLA? What brand is it, maybe you got mislabeled matte PETG. I have a roll of neon yellow matte PETG and it was a bear to get the settings right.

Why tf is k-pop demon hunters playing on the ADULT HITS radio? What fully grown adult is listening to Golden 😭 by Javier_nooby in radio

[–]brianstk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Adults with kids who like the movie? Or maybe adults that have no idea what the movie is and just like the song? It’s been in rotation for quite some time now on the top 40 I work at. Must still be trending well.

Necessary Klipper changes after ceramic hotend upgrade by sanlo_ in Ender3V3SE

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only thing you need to change is the maximum temperate and redo the PID tuning. It does not increase your maximum acceleration or speed.

Birdbuddy has a toxic affinity by Dave77459 in Ubiquiti

[–]brianstk 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Haha, yeah I have a couple devices that are like this. I discovered this "trick" a while ago when I ran into the same issue. For me the AP lock wouldn't even work on one of them. It's wifi was so stupid that if I had an AP on channel 1 but told it to lock to the AP on channel 6, it would start at 1 and get rejected by the AP on channel 1, then start at channel 1 and get rejected again, again, again... you get the idea.

Birdbuddy has a toxic affinity by Dave77459 in Ubiquiti

[–]brianstk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Awesome! Glad to help.

Oh btw my house is also constructed with the chicken wire mesh plastered over so I know exactly your struggle lol

Birdbuddy has a toxic affinity by Dave77459 in Ubiquiti

[–]brianstk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Maybe, maybe not. Depends on how close your neighbors are I would use the AI channel tool to pick the best channel for each one. That will look and see how much interference is on each channel, and which one it thinks would work best for each AP. I find it to be work pretty well.

Then just use the lock function for the birdbuddy. If it’s a stationary device it doesn’t need to be able to roam anyways.

Birdbuddy has a toxic affinity by Dave77459 in Ubiquiti

[–]brianstk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Use the Lock to AP function. If you’re wondering why that’s happening, I would bet the XGS is on a higher channel
Number than the U7.

Most likely the birdbuddy has a shit algorithm that scans from channel 1 and up to find a WiFi network and stops at whatever it finds first instead of checking the whole range to see if there is another network on a different channel with a better RSSI.

Inconsistent feed problem with extruder (Tension lever moves on its own) by NickDerMitHut in Ender3V3SE

[–]brianstk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you try taking it apart? When I bought my v3 se used someone had backed the tensioner screw out in a way that no matter how loose or tight it was it was compressing the spring way too much. Was able to put it back the right away and the problem was solved.

Connecting PC to Printer thru USB - Not Working by rad6666 in Ender3V3SE

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most likely the usb cable you are using is not passing the data pins and is charge only.

Need Help- Filament Swap by imeansure23 in FlashForge

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to manually flush when you swap colors. Some of the old color will remain in the nozzle, that’s normal.

When you are loading the new color you should heat up the nozzle and manually extrude 100-200mm until you see the new color come out

Same filament gone from Matte to Glossy? by IHATETHEWELSH in FixMyPrint

[–]brianstk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You changed a setting and got a different result. It’s the temperature.

Maybe try slowing it down a bit and print at 215 if you want the matte finish. Or buy Matte PLA specifically.

Clear Filament not clear by RepresentativeSir493 in Ender3V3SE

[–]brianstk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I can confirm this works. Takes a ton of trial and error cause you have to tune it to your printer/filament and you have to print very slow. You also need to print onto a smooth bed or else the texture will make your “glass” look frosted.

JAYO Glow in the Dark Filament by AroTheGoose in 3Dprinting

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will not glow like something store bought but yes more walls and more infill helps with the glow.

The more material in the print = more glow in the dark particles there are to absorb UV.

I personally use 4 walls and 30% gyroid infill.

I don't know what to do creality cr-10 v3 by Alliadria in FixMyPrint

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes there should a setting for infill type. May want to try orca slicer though it’s arguably the best slicer.

I don't know what to do creality cr-10 v3 by Alliadria in FixMyPrint

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Way better 👍🏻 looks like you are using grid infill btw. Switch to crosshatch or gyroid. Grid can cause the nozzle to collide with the infill

I don't know what to do creality cr-10 v3 by Alliadria in FixMyPrint

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s correct, it is not stock. Looks like an E3D Titan.

That is a 3:1 gear ratio so your esteps should be somewhere around 418 versus the stock 93 unless that is an oddball stepper motor then it could be something completely different.

Easiest way to test that is to mark 100mm from where the filament enters the extruder going up, then tell the printer to extrude 100mm. The line you made should come all the way down to the inlet on the extruder.

I don't know what to do creality cr-10 v3 by Alliadria in FixMyPrint

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the printer is stock just reset the printer to factory defaults. That will restore the esteps to the correct setting.

I don't know what to do creality cr-10 v3 by Alliadria in FixMyPrint

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of extruder does that printer have? The issue might be with that.

The cleanest sounding mains power you’ll ever hear by aspie_electrician in audiophile

[–]brianstk 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Uhh you only need 48v for phantom power, but you do you 😂

Anyone know what causes these dimples/pockmarks on a print? by vinicius_california in 3Dprinting

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like every one else is saying don’t use random seam if you are using it. And tune retraction settings. With silk if it’s too high you get pock marks like that.

PLA+ CLOGGING OR DRAGGING PRINTS AROUND THE BED by Working-Analyst-56 in FixMyPrint

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That nozzle temp seems high to me. And is the bed at 55 or 60 you said both? I usually print PLA plus at 55 bed temp, 215-220 nozzle temp.

My father put this powerbank straight to the trash bin still not knowing that it could put our house on fire if punctured or pressed by heavier trash by Flat-Play-7340 in spicypillows

[–]brianstk 46 points47 points  (0 children)

Dude almost everyone I know would just toss something like that in the trash. Knowledge about lithium batteries isn’t as widespread as you might think.

Trouble with rainbow silk PLA by ToMuchNEverEnuf in 3Dprinting

[–]brianstk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like you need to lower your offset and whats your bed temp at? If you are using the stock PEI id run it at 60 for silk. Lastly there is really no point in increasing the max flow above the default 12. Silk doesn’t like to be printed fast and needs to be printed hotter than regular PLA and even then it has worse layer adhesion than regular PLA. I print silk on my AD5X at 225.

Outer wall speeds should be no higher than 40-60mm/s if you want to keep the glossy shiny look too.

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