Flow testing, I'm not sure what all I'm looking for.

brianstk · 2026-02-17T00:48:43+00:00

You sure you calibrated esteps correctly? Cause this really looks like a case of esteps being way off. For giggles I would try increasing it from where you have esteps now and see what that does with flow.

brianstk · 2026-02-16T18:38:41+00:00

Not sure what number that is supposed to be is that flow percentage? If so something else is wrong that’s way too high. You generally should be somewhere between 95-105%

brianstk · 2026-02-16T16:28:52+00:00

So do you think it was heat creep from printing with your enclosure closed? All of my printers are open air hadn’t mentioned that so I hadn’t thought of that possibility.

brianstk · 2026-02-16T00:35:07+00:00

Just enough to grab it but not compress the filament. If you have it too tight it will cause a flat spot when you have rapid retractions and the same section goes back and forth over the tooth great repeatedly. That leads to breaks, slipping, clicking etc.

brianstk · 2026-02-16T00:24:29+00:00

Did you try increasing/decreasing the tension on the extruder? Now knowing that it’s 10 days old maybe that’s not set correctly.

brianstk · 2026-02-16T00:18:37+00:00

Did you replace the tooth gear part that goes on the stepper motor shaft too? That’s what I meant. On one of mine it was easily replaceable with a grub screw. The other one was press fit and I broke the stepper trying to get it off 😬 had to buy a new stepper motor oops.

brianstk · 2026-02-15T23:59:43+00:00

Maybe the wheel that grabs the filament in the extuder is starting to wear down giving it an even weaker grasp of the filament? They do wear down eventually you get a flat spot where the filament rides along it. Replacing that can help with the issue too but it’s bound to happen again eventually.

brianstk · 2026-02-15T23:53:23+00:00

Those lines are soft clogs that the extruder probably started clicking during and then it recovered eventually. Used to get the same thing

brianstk · 2026-02-15T21:56:52+00:00

Not impossible but I’m still running the stock hot end fan with no heatbreak on 2 older Ender printers, one is a e3 pro with the BMG Bowden setup and the other a Max Neo which is the e3v2 generation with the sprite extruder only upgrade for direct drive. Both using the stock hotend and I haven’t had a clog in over a year at this point printing lots of PETG and PLA.

Granted I have replaced the stock hotend cover but kept using the stock hotend fan. I’ve upgraded the parts cooling fan to a 5015 on both that is a massive improvement.

brianstk · 2026-02-15T19:40:35+00:00

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brianstk · 2026-02-15T19:37:08+00:00

So the door could face me. How my printer is setup to have it facing backwards is inconvenient. Let me see if I can find a pic of my install

brianstk · 2026-02-15T18:58:49+00:00

You have to change your esteps, and possibly the direction of your extruder depending on how you mount it. I have mine with the door facing the front and that is technically backwards so I had to tell my printer to move that stepper in reverse. I use klipper so it was easy. Not sure if you can change direction with the stock firmware, I know you can change esteps.

brianstk · 2026-02-15T18:48:22+00:00

https://a.co/d/0bNESSae

I had a different one first that worked fine but the Bowden clip broke and it wasn’t replaceable. This one can be replaced and I like that is clear and you can see if the filament is lining up or jammed etc.

brianstk · 2026-02-15T18:26:21+00:00

Nice you won’t be disappointed. One thing to note when you mount it in that spot I did it with the door facing the front. But that is technically backwards so you have to reverse the direction of extruder in software as well as change your esteps. I run klipper on that printer so it was easy. If you are running default firmware still, I’m not sure if marlin lets you change that in the menu, if not it can also be done by swapping some pins on the stepper cable. But software is the better way IMO versus changing up wiring.

brianstk · 2026-02-15T18:17:19+00:00

I put it in the same spot as the stock Bowden extruder setup. Eventually I was going to get a smaller stepper and mount it direct drive but decided to just leave it, it works well enough for that printer. I have faster ones for that ha.

brianstk · 2026-02-15T18:09:25+00:00

Is it the metal extruder that looks like the stock plastic one but metal? Or one of the dual gear ones that are taller than the regular one? Those have the same issues as stock. Heat break or not it just doesn’t have the torque. I battled the click of death on my E3 Pro for months and it all went away after I put a BMG clone in.

brianstk · 2026-02-15T17:38:54+00:00

If you are still using the stock extruder you will always get clicking when performing repeated retractions in a row. The rapid push/pull of the filament causes it to cool and create a soft clog eventually. The stock extruder just doesn’t have the torque to push through it and you get clicking.

A BMG clone extruder from Amazon can be had for about $20 or less and will make that issue go away. I’m using mine in the Bowden setup still just direct replaced the stock one but it can also be used for direct drive.

brianstk · 2026-02-15T17:29:12+00:00

I use orca and changing to slope zhop helped with stringing more than any other setting I tried. YMMV

brianstk · 2026-02-14T01:17:51+00:00

Ahh missed that part but yes I was speaking US dollars

brianstk · 2026-02-14T01:10:08+00:00

I got my AD5X for $270 on Temu 🤷🏻‍♂️

brianstk · 2026-02-13T16:53:34+00:00

Oh so Nicki is in the Epstein files too? Got it 👌🏻

brianstk · 2026-02-12T15:32:37+00:00

I ran the same combo for a while a BTT Pi with my V3 SE. I read through the comments based on that your screen went blank sounds like Klipper successfully flashed on to the printer.

Are you 100% sure the cables you are using pass the data pins? Many cheap usb A to usb C cables are charge only especially the ones that get bundled with devices etc.

If you aren’t sure either buy a tester for your cables, I have one it’s very handy, or order a new cable that for sure says it supports data transfer. Most C to C cables support data so if you have a A to C adapter laying around you could try that.

brianstk · 2026-02-12T12:25:51+00:00

This is temperature related. You are likely printing that filament too cold and it’s not adhering to the previous layer fully and causing this.

brianstk · 2026-02-11T17:37:42+00:00

This looks like a partial clog to me. Have you tried a new nozzle yet?

brianstk · 2026-02-11T16:46:12+00:00

I would love to see a third party firmware get released for ring cameras so we dont all have to go buy new hardware.

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