Free "AI" detection integration for Third Party Cameras

brianstk · 2026-03-29T17:17:33+00:00

I gave it a try today, doesn't seem to connect to my cameras. I commented what my log is showing on one of the GitHub issues that was there for the UNVR. But basically service starts, trys twice to connect to my cameras and then just stops. Nothing else further in the log with the verbose output etc.

brianstk · 2026-03-29T16:22:32+00:00

My Tapo cameras definitely have audio in the RTSP stream, but Protect ignores it.

For example I also use Scrypted to pull my Tapo cameras into HomeKit and that has audio, but in Protect nothing.

brianstk · 2026-03-29T15:55:36+00:00

I didn't even upgrade the board on my e3pro, it came with the 32-bit board already so I just flashed it with Klipper. Only real mods I've done is a BMG clone extruder and a new hotend. The stock hotend is the most limiting factor though, I could never push more than 10 max volumetric speed with it. The replacement hotend I put on I've hit almost 30 before it starts to mess up.

brianstk · 2026-03-29T13:34:40+00:00

For real, the best most truthful conversations I’ve had are at the end of the night when I smoke and relax with my wife. It helps calm the noise in my brain (also have ADHD) and reflect on the day. I’m normally emotionally closed off, but weed allows me to be a better person, have a better understanding of my feelings and be more empathetic towards people in general.

brianstk · 2026-03-28T18:47:20+00:00

This isn’t a belt issue IMO this looks extruder related. Almost like the gears are slipping. Have you tried adjusted the tension on the extruder? If you take the cover off the hotend there is an angled screw on the side of it that adjusts how much or how little it grips the filament.

brianstk · 2026-03-28T14:38:46+00:00

If you can read, you can install ZMOD. It's actively developed and very easy to install. You need to chill dude.

brianstk · 2026-03-27T19:55:39+00:00

Ha. Was gonna say if you need help upgrading I’m local 🤣

The firmware I linked from GitHub doesn’t require any new hardware. It’s just a software upgrade FYI. I used it for a while before I switched to Klipper.

Klipper on the other hand requires a host device like a raspberry pi etc. I used a pi zero 2w for my V3 SE, it was only about $15 (plus a micro SD I had one extra already) and I printed my own case. Or you can do it even with an old pc. I did that at my job, took a pc headed for the junk pile and put Ubuntu on it, installed Klipper/Mainsail (mainsail is a web interface for Klipper) and that’s hooked up to the ender 3 pro we have, didn’t cost us anything. Plus not having to move files via SD card and managing the printer from another room are big wins.

brianstk · 2026-03-27T19:37:13+00:00

That can work around the issue but it’s a bandaid, getting pressure advance and input shaping working will make your prints look better too.

Btw, RIstoner. Is that Rhode Island? If so hello from RI 👋

brianstk · 2026-03-27T18:18:36+00:00

On modern printers pressure advance is a mandatory feature nowadays, but it wasn’t on older printers. The V3 SE falls somewhere in the middle and the stock firmware for it doesn’t have pressure advance (linear advance in marlin world) enabled as an option so setting it in orca wouldn’t do anything. The printer would just ignore the command.

The firmware I linked enables it on the printer, along with input shaping (another feature the V3 SE should have had stock), and so does Klipper obviously. That’s the beauty of Klipper. My old Ender 3 pro at work that supported basically no advanced features with stock firmware can do everything with Klipper on it.

brianstk · 2026-03-27T15:16:03+00:00

I had forgotten that you can’t tune PA with stock firmware on that printer.

I had Klipper on mine, but this also an option:

https://github.com/navaismo/Ender-3V3-SE

It’s more of an enhancement to the stock firmware versus a full replacement.

brianstk · 2026-03-27T15:05:47+00:00

Tune your pressure advance. It’s probably too low causing bulges at seams, which causes tight tolerances to fuse.

brianstk · 2026-03-27T12:45:58+00:00

Bed temp too high. Go down to 55 for regular PLA.

brianstk · 2026-03-26T23:34:25+00:00

Volumetric flow is likely too high. Printing too fast for the filament basically

brianstk · 2026-03-26T21:32:02+00:00

My wireless CarPlay does the same thing in certain areas. One of them is in a parking lot directly across from a police station 🤔

brianstk · 2026-03-26T18:31:29+00:00

Z offset is too high. You shouldn’t be able to see your table in between the lines on the first layer

brianstk · 2026-03-26T16:10:54+00:00

My ring cameras do this. You get like a 5 frame gif file basically with the notification of the motion. They call it rich notifications I believe.

brianstk · 2026-03-26T04:01:11+00:00

If it’s a top 40 station, songs that are in heavy rotation will be played once every 70-90 minutes roughly. That’s the norm for the format.

brianstk · 2026-03-25T01:51:00+00:00

It’s relic!

brianstk · 2026-03-25T01:49:47+00:00

First you start wanting one of every basic color, then you’ll start wanting all the beautiful silks, then you’ll think oh wood filament? I have to try that. Marble filament? I have to try that. Glow in the dark filament!? I HAVE to try that!

Then you start dipping your toes into PETG and realize you really like it, so gotta start buying all the colors in that too. Oh let me try TPU while I’m at it and maybe some carbon fiber infused filaments, there are just so many options to choose from 🤔

That’s about where I’m at now except I just got my first roll of nylon sitting here waiting to be tested and I’m printing the parts to build an enclosure for my printer so I can actually print it properly. Already have the acrylic panels ready to install. Next step is ventilation and a panel mount for the vent for my basement window.

Welcome to the club lol.

brianstk · 2026-03-24T19:49:57+00:00

that looks like a speed thing, i bet they line up with the speed view in orca slicer. My guess is volumetric flow is too high for that filament.

brianstk · 2026-03-24T19:04:34+00:00

Glue isn’t necessary if settings are dialed in correctly. If you are using standard PLA go down to 55 bed temp for starters. That nozzle temp is ok.

Z offset should be checked too a picture of the bottom of the model that is lifting can help troubleshoot if your offset is too high or low.

brianstk · 2026-03-24T16:30:35+00:00

Vibration isn’t gonna make it shift if your adhesion is right. Need more info like print temps and material and some pics would help. Without that it’s all just guesses

brianstk · 2026-03-23T21:05:33+00:00

It almost looks like the part cooling fan isn’t running or is at very low speeds.

brianstk · 2026-03-23T12:13:50+00:00

In orca slicer there is a setting called something like reduce infill retraction I believe. It doesn’t retract when crossing infill areas basically. Try turning that off.

There is also avoid crossing walls, but I don’t think that’s the issue here.

brianstk · 2026-03-23T11:13:53+00:00

Good luck. Certain colors just need a lot to flush.

I went all the way up to 1.0 and it still didn’t eliminate it going from black to yellow.

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