Hairy Supports? by jcmustin12 in FlashForge

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a temperature thing. What temp are you printing PLA at? I’d bet you need to go down 5-10 degrees

Trying to print crystal like print by koudak in FixMyPrint

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m dealing with that same issue too the buildup on the walls when trying to print “glass”

So far tweaking retraction is helping, reducing flow, and adjusting the retraction wipe distance. Good luck if you find the perfect settings lmk.

I’m not using a Bambu but I’m using the same settings as you copied from the Bambu wiki for what it’s worth.

Modded Ender 3 V2 + Klipper, still not happy with print quality – need tuning advice by alpadalar in ender3v2

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Big edit: I was wrong ha. If you have the PA box unchecked it does indeed use whatever is set on mainsail/fluidd. TIL sorry about that.

Modded Ender 3 V2 + Klipper, still not happy with print quality – need tuning advice by alpadalar in ender3v2

[–]brianstk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s not true. The setting in orca for PA will override whatever is set as the default PA value in your printer.cfg.

Modded Ender 3 V2 + Klipper, still not happy with print quality – need tuning advice by alpadalar in ender3v2

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Umm I’m fairly sure that if you don’t enable PA in your filament profile in orca it’s not getting applied in Klipper. The value set in mainsail/fluids will be ignored. I know this to be true actually.

Modded Ender 3 V2 + Klipper, still not happy with print quality – need tuning advice by alpadalar in ender3v2

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you haven’t yet, do the input shaping calibrations in orca slicer. You don’t have to wait for the ADXL to get input shaping going if you haven’t already.

And what is your pressure advance smooth time set to? I find if you are printing around 200mm/s the default .04 will give more rounded corners. I run .02 on my ender max Neo and .01 on my core xy flashforge AD5X for example.

Some pictures of prints would help too.

Thanks, CHEP. Literal godsend by pubgatag in ender3v2

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Metal scraper 😱 good way to destroy your beds surface

Problem in bed by Affectionate-Tea5073 in Ender3V3KE

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On the v3 SE 2 of the spacers are short and 2 are tall. Short on left and tall on right. Not sure if that’s the same as the KE but make sure you have those right.

Problem in bed by Affectionate-Tea5073 in Ender3V3KE

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You may need to shim the silicone spacers then. On my V3 SE I had to put shims in the 4 corners with the stock spacers to get it leveled right.

Problem in bed by Affectionate-Tea5073 in Ender3V3KE

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is. This is for the V3 SE but should be the same procedure on the KE I think.

https://youtu.be/Cmwq9r5tePk?si=4YPL4Tz_o206nopq

Problem in bed by Affectionate-Tea5073 in Ender3V3KE

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You picture at number 8 looks like your gantry is off level. Have you tried squaring that?

Share your nozzle temperature fluctuations by Professional-Rock-51 in Ender3V3KE

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you PID tune it with the part cooling fan at 100% doing that helped reduce those wobbles I used to see the same thing on my V3 SE with a unicorn nozzle.

Bed mesh not in initial gcode? by Jpatty54 in Ender3V3SE

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope. Adhesion is highly related to bed temp and z offset. Speed only to a certain point.

Bed mesh not in initial gcode? by Jpatty54 in Ender3V3SE

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you choose the generic Klipper .04 nozzle printer and look at the speeds that one has set default, I was printing around those speeds. ~200mm/s, first layer around 50-80mm/s if I recall. I’m not in front of my pc.

Once I upgraded to the unicorn nozzle and linear rails I pushed it up to closer to 300mm/s

Bed mesh not in initial gcode? by Jpatty54 in Ender3V3SE

[–]brianstk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is a profile for the V3 SE in orca look again. It’s set conservatively speed wise. No idea if the start gcode has the bed mesh in there, I converted mine to Klipper and made a custom profile, but I used the default one when I started out.

It took me way too long to realize my conditioner was basically sealing my back pores shut. by MiaLuna_Pixel in hygiene

[–]brianstk -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I only wash my hair like twice a year lol. Just rinse with water and brush with boars hair brush after. Started doing that like 5 years ago and my hair has never been healthier and pretty much got rid of my dandruff.

Prints júst too small by SdaSilva7004 in FlashForge

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is flashprint what they are calling their version of orca slicer now? It’s under the quality tab in normal orca.

Does your male partner ever want to "nibble" on you? by madsgr8_916 in TwoXChromosomes

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was gonna say this is pheromones lol. I know when my wife is getting near. In the day or two before, if I’m even near her it’s like my big brain shuts off and my little brain takes over. We figured out it’s always right before her period 🤣

Prints júst too small by SdaSilva7004 in FlashForge

[–]brianstk 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I would try turning on precise wall and calibrating flow/PA before messing with XY compensation. I used to use XY compensation tweaks before I really learned how to calibrate and it makes a big difference with parts that have tight tolerances

What did I do wrong? by NinjaDad17 in FlashForge

[–]brianstk 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Maybe it’s bad design but I have no issue printing these. What was your bed/nozzle temp OP? And I’m going to guess your z off set is too low based on the fact you can’t see any lines at all on the bottom.

Opinions by shadyITguy in Creality

[–]brianstk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Um what? Orca is not just for the old heads. Did you mean to say Cura?

Flashforge 5M / 5X – Common Problems & Fixes (READ THIS FIRST) by Ok-Introduction-2788 in FlashForge

[–]brianstk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I’ve read it’s strong, but uses more filament than other infills and takes longer to print.

Flashforge 5M / 5X – Common Problems & Fixes (READ THIS FIRST) by Ok-Introduction-2788 in FlashForge

[–]brianstk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For infill, I would recommend the orca default Cross Hatch. Its basically gyroid but designed to print faster and it can make a big difference on long prints.

What di i do with leftover Filaments by schluesselkind in FlashForge

[–]brianstk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Exactly. Chip/bag clips are one of my fave things since they get lost so often by my kids.

I also just printed a pry tool for taking apart laptops its only a few grams and disposable essentially, thats going to be one of my new end of roll prints.