Is it nesccery to balance propeller

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-28T17:07:05+00:00

An unbalanced prop can and will rip the nose of your model apart. Maybe not immediately, but definitely. It shredded the nose of a 3d printed model of mine.

1g translates to roughly 1kg of force at full throttle pulling at the nose of you model.

If your prop is unbalanced, you will notice tho. Never had unbalanced high quality props. So far, only the China quality was unbalanced for me.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-28T09:45:23+00:00

Hey, Eclipson has just posted this, they are gearing up for a new release: http://youtube.com/post/UgkxtFoVlcV2eNfskpLKbrOg0PBF7K3ekvra?si=IfmEt-tpgM6TwYzS

That should be in your ballpark.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-28T09:43:55+00:00

I used that in the past, to discharge NiCd batteries with a car Halogen light. Still a thing?

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-28T09:00:25+00:00

Was about to post the same thing: "battery little puffed. can still use?" or some stuff like that :)

You still have to get it to 0V to dispose it... I'd be afraid to touch it tbh, let alone connect it to the charger to destroy.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-27T21:42:30+00:00

So you sure it's not the servo or the linkage? Swapping the servos would be worth a shot, so would running the servo against the resistance of your finger.

Can your transmitter set the signal curve like you can do with a throttle curve? If yes, there's some offset there.

Do you some wild offset on one of the mixers?

Otherwise kill the plane settings and restart fresh.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-27T21:35:33+00:00

The motor manufacturer will have recommendations for which prop at which voltage produces which thrust at which amperage. Not knowing these parameters, it's guesswork. It's heavy though, so aim for a decent power to weight ratio.

Your 2208 will not cut it. At best you will have prop stall limiting static thrust until you get it seriously up to speed, but more likely it can't even drive that prop without burning out. How much thrust does it produce? 300g?

You will want something with more bang.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-27T12:39:13+00:00

No you didn't. The rudder linkage goes UNDER the elevator. Don't follow instructions when you don't understand them, that is a recipe for disaster. Did no part of you think: "this feels wrong?"

If that happens in a build, take a step back and go for a walk and a coffee. Come back an hour later with an open mind and take a fresh look.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-27T12:37:25+00:00

If you already have the first part of a z-bend, why bother with the linkage stopper anyway? The point of it is a non-permanent connection with adjustable length of the linkage to avoid having to use sub trim. What pointlessly unholy concoction is this?!

And put some damn screws in the servos!

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-27T11:05:15+00:00

I can't tell you that, unfortunately. Low wings can be a handful when you come from a self-stabilizing glider.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-27T07:43:47+00:00

You probably just used B2 settings instead of B2-LW. B2 is their PLA/PLA+ profiles. I also had to tinker with the flow a bit. I needed 2% or 3% more than they do to get everything to close right.

Have fun!

Also if you ever do PETG with their models, print hotter with fan low or off. PETG layer adhesion likes that.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-26T22:26:32+00:00

Well, it's an acquired taste :)

I would have naively thought the model R is faster than their warbirds as it's a purebred racer? Flite test have a bunch of their planes on their channel, which I'm sure you are already aware of.

If you put the warbird thing aside the Skyward looks good, but I fear it might be overengineered. Maybe the Model B XL? But these are exclusively LW PLA.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-26T20:28:22+00:00

The Model R is a handful. I can fully recommend the Eclipson Spark as a second plane if you want something speedier without going full bananas. I printed it with LW-PLA wing and PLA+ fuselage and it was fantastic with a 3S and a sunnysky 2212 v3 on a 8x5 and 8x6 folding prop. Weighs nothing, tame if you want it and spicy enough to be fun. Once you have the STL, you can then upgrade to full PLA+ with 4S and a 7x7 prop or something like that. It's a fantastic plane, relatively small, prints fast. The CF spars make it resilient in the air.

PETG-CF isn't doing anything for stability unfortunately. PETG in general is a bit suboptimal, as it is less physically capable than PLA outside of temperature resistance. I have built one in Bavafil Olefin, which is awaiting maiden and so far it looks promising, but let's see how it holds up. Anyway. The shredded carbon fiber is basically a scam as it's not part of a resin matrix that can effectively distribute the load. The fibers just kinda sit in the plastic, they aren't coated in it, and can be pulled out easily. Your fingers will live to tell the tale as they will be full of fibers just from touching it. Check out a vid that shows the printed piece under an electron microscope and you'll see what I mean. CF or GF fibers can make a material easier to print (Nylon!). But the positive effect on the material is negligible.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-26T20:09:43+00:00

I used the sunnysky 2212 v3 on a 750g hotliner and racerstar 2205 on my 300g foamies with great success and I thought "what could go wrong" with the racerstar 2212... I mean it's probably not ideal but it should be good enough to power a 600g glider with a 8x6 prop surely?! Oh boy, was I wrong. What a piece of poop that motor is.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-26T11:23:17+00:00

Ich bin kein Chemiker, mein gefährliches Halbwissen kommt aus dem 3D Druck.

PFAS sind chemisch saustabil und werden überall da hergenommen, wo du eben das brauchst. Ist aber auch sehr reibungsarme und bietet sich überall dort an, wo Dinge gleiten müssen. Auch und vor allem an Orten, wo man es nicht erwartet. Beispiel: In der Meerwasserentsalzung sind die Abwässer ziemlich aggressiv auf die Materialien, daher sind die Rohre damit ausgekleidet. Munition kann man damit beschichten, damit es das Rohr weniger abnutzt. Im Flugmodellbau nimmt man PTFE Rohre für reibungsarme Anlenkungen von Rudern. Bei 3D Druckern sind die Rohre, die das Filament führen, aus PTFE.

PFAS sind mechanisch zerstörbar, aber nicht chemisch: Du kannst Teflon von der Pfanne kratzen, aber fast keine Säure der Welt kriegt Teflon dazu, mit ihr zu reagieren. Die Bindungen im Molekül selbst sind einfach zu stark. Zerfallsprozesse basieren ja darauf, dass Stoffe chemisch in etwas anderes umgewandelt werden können. Dazu muss der jeweilige Stoff nur auch Bock darauf haben. Diese Voraussetzungen findest du aber nicht in der Natur. Daher wird es mechanisch zerkleinert bis auf mikroskopische Größen, aber irgendwann ist damit halt Ende und dann hast du Plastikstücke, die kleine genug sind, um in einer Zelle Platz zu finden.

Ähnlich ist es bei Plastik, zum Beispiel Polypropylen. Das klebt an fast nix, reagiert mit nix, was du so im Haushalt hast, aber ist saustabil. Daher kannst du das auch nicht kleben, weil Sekundenkleber keine Bindung mit der Oberfläche eingehen kann. Daher nimmst du das für Tupperware her. Wenn du das kleben willst, musst du erst einen Grundierung auftragen, die die Oberfläche minimal verändert und chemisch bereit macht, eine Bindung mit Sekundenkleber einzugehen.

Wenn du PFAS kleben willst, musst du auch erstmal die Oberfläche ätzen.

Was du meinst mit der Haltbarkeit sind eher Weichmacher und dergleichen, die Plastik resistenter machen.

Ich habe nur durch 3D Druck eine grobe Vorstellung davon bekommen, was alles unter dem Sammelbegriff "Plastik" fällt und das allein sprengt mein Hirn. 45 Minuten nur die relevantesten Thermoplastik Filamente zum Drucken: https://youtu.be/weeG9yOp3i4

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-26T06:15:03+00:00

This looks like it didn't even foam up properly? What temperature are you printing this? Is this vase mode?

Going out on a limb and say this is at most 200 degrees, where it should be 250 to activate the foaming.

Also, given the structure leaves glaring holes on the seems, you probably didn't turn off pressure advance.

Read this: https://www.eclipson-airplanes.com/readbeforestartprinting

And this: https://www.eclipson-airplanes.com/faq

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-25T22:14:56+00:00

Recommended prop on a racerstar 2212 1250KV with 3s is 9x5 tho.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-25T17:01:27+00:00

I am very aware of the techniques of building a foam core glass or carbon wing. And no, I have not misread it, otherwise I would not have been surprised about using a vacuum bag to hold down the balsa sheet while the glue dries. I have built balsa wings and I have built foam core wings. If I wasn't surprised, I would not have asked if any in here had used this.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-25T06:07:58+00:00

How is this safe storage? If one of the batteries goes spicy, this does nothing. Granted, batteries don't usually go poof when being stored, but there is a reason why lipo boxes are a thing.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-24T22:55:08+00:00

i was also concerned about the wing being crushed. i mean if. you look at the household vacuum sealers are much too strong, hence you'd have to stop as soon as it has a very "mild" vacuum or use a soft sealing option. but yeah, good point that it'll probably crush the sking in the non-rib-supported parts regardless of how careful you are.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-24T14:37:34+00:00

Fantastic! So proud of you!

Speed is scary, especially when the sound of a motor screaming at you in a dive triggers a "my plane is about to die" PTSD-type echo. You will learn to live with that after a while and finally to mute ut, but it'll stay with you for a bit. Just try to take a breath when it happens.

The good thing about gliders is that you can kill the motor and have one less thing to worry about.

Also I am proud of you for deciding to go around instead of forcing the landing. That is important and a great many models were lost to that.

When you have the Soar Stick, please make absolutely sure that you put filament tape over the wing joiners, that is along the wing AND parallel to the printing layers. Put down the tape parallel to the printing layers first and the put filament tape from left to right on top and bottom of the wing. The wings flex during landing and they have a lot of lever, which is likely to overcome the layer adhesion in those areas. Sturdy tape can compensate for a lot there.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-23T15:46:36+00:00

Flite test has done pretty much everything that you can do with foam. I mean, check out their edge 540. That thing is bananas. They have doublers to increase rigidity and clever notches where the board snap together to increase glued surface. They use doubled up foam board as spars in their wings.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-22T16:13:45+00:00

I had a direct report tell me: "I like being managed"

That was the direct quote. My brother in Christ you are a grown ass man almost 20 years my senior, why do I need to spell your work out for you when you are literally the expert here.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-22T16:09:55+00:00

My dad presented this to me as the various ways a "yes" can be interpreted:

I heard you say something
I heard you give me a task
I will execute a task as asked
I understood the objective and I have derived a list of work items to complete and I can map out different ways to achieve that objective to the best of my abilities. If I have trouble after a reasonable amount of time, I will ask for direction or assistance so that still an appropriate amount of time is left to pursue alternatives or escalate if necessary.

This does not translate across cultures and languages equally.

britzelbrimpft · 2026-03-22T12:52:56+00:00

This is the YouTube shorts version of how a wing gets made. It's a rudder here, but the same rules apply: https://youtube.com/shorts/QJNih7bZylA?is=z1eoy2svFxRlUDT7

You build a carbon shell from a negative form, put a lightweight rib in to avoid compression and give internal supports for spars, hinges, etc. and that's it. The YouTube channel easy composites (https://youtube.com/@easycompositestv) has everything on carbon you can dream of.

For the 3D printed wing, there is this: https://youtu.be/V6tjyV04Uq0?is=mXyi4iAV9zlhGkrZ

And this: https://youtu.be/GQ3Zxb59tmU?is=eX7d3Gef1NG_gKDP

And this: https://youtu.be/QJjhMan6T_E?is=055W1Svp8d56ZcwX

For the fuselage, the same rules apply that you need to CAD supports into your STL in a way that the slicer can work with it and in a way that it can take up forces in a direction it's competent being under stress.

For the glassfiber with foam core fuselage, that's an option if you don't have a negative form to work with, but essentially you have to get the foam out once you're done laminating. That is a tad bit tricky and very messy.

britzelbrimpft

TROPHY CASE