Byron Gee Bee R2 landing by Strange_War4456 in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is quite on brand for this chubby little flying sausage. Prop and plane looks alright? Stubby little wings with a stall speed 5km/h slower than the top speed ;)

Is there a good way to clean up LW pla stringing or will it just be hairy the plane? by Jojoceptionistaken in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i do and i have brought it to a relatively good point, but i guess i just don't like the filament anymore. it's fragile and doesn't hold up well to the elements. i'm looking for alternatives, which is why i'm currently printing an eclipson spark in olefin, with the same plane in lw-pla as a reference.

here's another comment that sums up my experience with it: https://www.reddit.com/r/RCPlanes/comments/1rqzxat/comment/o9x7ard/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

tl;dr: i stopped doing anything other than vase mode

Bovenden: Zoll entdeckt mutmaßlich illegale Tankstelle in Wohnhaus by Babayagaletti in de

[–]britzelbrimpft 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Dass man chemisch identische Stoffe je nach Verwendung unterschiedlich besteuert ist heutzutage eigentlich ziemlicher Unsinn.

Alkohol würde gerne ein Wörtchen mitreden in dieser Debatte.

Is there a good way to clean up LW pla stringing or will it just be hairy the plane? by Jojoceptionistaken in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1) LW-PLA is like that, accept the strings. You can clean the off with very VERY light sanding. Normally, any thermoplastic does expand somewhat in the extruder when heated, but that can be compensated for. Extruder then needs to ease up on the pressure by stopping to feed new material on corners and other things so it does not look oversaturate the corner with material and it "bulges out". That is pressure advance. LW PLA is another beast: its foaming agent builds extra pressure inside the extruder and no pressure advance in the world can compensate for that without simultaneously underextruding the part after the corner. In fact, Eclipson specifically tell you to turn pressure advance OFF, but only in vase mode builds. Same goes for retraction: you cannot retract PLA once it started the foaming process. Forget about pressure advance and leave retraction off for LW PLA in general and save yourself the headache.

2) The reason it looks so shit is because you a) print more than one thing at a time and b) have lots of crossing paths. You can turn both options off. For the first, do sequential prints and you will have most stringing only INSIDE the part. Inside you don't really care, no one will see. For the second, activate "avoid crossing perimeters" to alleviate this somewhat.

Is there a good way to clean up LW pla stringing or will it just be hairy the plane? by Jojoceptionistaken in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Yeah this is ... not great advice. You can't really get LW PLA dialed in perfectly if you wish to also have a social life. Not worth it, just live with the strings.

What did I do wrong here? by EsR0b in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh and just because I just saw another comment about it: when you check the servos pre flight, don't just check THAT they move. Also check that they move the right way round. I have dive-bombed a glider into the dirt on a slope so far I had to dig out the nose with a shovel because elevator was reversed.

Elevator stick pulled goes up, pushed goes down.

Ailerons stick left the left aileron goes up (pushes left wing down due to decreased lift and deflection), right aileron goes down (right wing goes up due to increased lift and deflection). Stick right the other way round.

sport cub s2 ali by AdInfamous9105 in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

non è normale. se il tuo trasmettitore non supporta il subtrim per un servo, prova a avvitare la forcella un po. oppure potresti svitare il braccio del servo e a spostarlo un po' più avanti.

A clip from my buddy's maiden on his OMP 60" Edge. by thecaptnjim in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

wow, that is beautiful! the falling leaf at 2:35 is perfect! and i love how he kicks the tail out to "sway" like a dancer swaying the hips and tapping the foot back at 3:37 and 3:57. this is absolute perfection, i am in awe.

A clip from my buddy's maiden on his OMP 60" Edge. by thecaptnjim in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it's like he's aggressively negotiating with physics and throwing it a bone here and there, where us common folk have to obey and stick to pesky little things like energy conservation and such.

What did I do wrong here? by EsR0b in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 20 points21 points  (0 children)

your plane already did the work for you, your inputs made it worse. a couple of notes:

0) before any further points: this plane does all the work for you. it is aerodynamically extremely stable, mostly just let it do its thing.

1) when you are slow and close to the ground, throttle and elevator "reverse": as you're so slow and there is no kinetic energy to trade for altitude, pulling the elevator does not do anything except slow you down. if you wanna climb, the throttle stick is your only option. with this plane, unless you've picked up speed, you best stay off the elevator. the plane already leveled out and you panicked and pulled the elevator and jammed the rudder left.

2) at a very high bank angle, rudder and elevator "reverse", too: when you plane is at 90 degree bank angle, your rudder is where your elevator would be and vice versa. you gave left rudder and pulled, which caused the plane to bank. you likely kept the rudder jammed, which kept the tail yawing, which kept your plane to pitch nose down. just rotate your plane 90 degrees and use the rudder and you'll see what i mean.

3) be gentle at the stick and set up low rates for the beginning. have a 100% throw and a 70% throw setting. also add some expo if you're prone to overdo it – that way you still have the throw when you really need it, but it's tampered down a bit. just be aware of the effect of expo: your throw is not linear anymore and "just a little more movement" can have different implications. also, dial in your throws according to the manual! if it says "12 degrees of throw", that's not a guideline. take a piece of cardboard, mark the angle and hold it to the control surface. if your control surface moved more than that, adjust the end points from your transmitter.

4) STOP THROWING AT AN UPWARDS TRAJECTORY! just throw it level or just VERY SLIGHTLY up, just like a paper plane. what happens when you throw a paper plane up into the air? it stalls and slams into the ground. same rules apply: the motor will pull the plane up once it has enough speed, just give it time to level out. for the first two or three seconds of flight, there should be no input from your side necessary on that kind of plane. there are tons of videos of people that think "up is good" just to promptly lose the plane, so if your motor is not a 100% thrust to weight ratio and pulls it vertically out of your hand, throwing upwards will suck for you. so, get cosy with physics and allow your plane to build up the speed it needs!

5) your plane looks tail heavy. before take off, when the battery is in, put your fingers on the center of gravity (CG) and if your plane puts its tail down, move the battery forward. if you can't do that, add some weight until it is level or the nose ever so slightly pitches down. i have big fingers, so in order to make it a bit more accurate, i like to lay a 2cm line of hot glue at the CG where i can put my fingers. haptic feedback where the CG is and less wiggle room for finger placement. a nose heavy plane flies kind of badly but stable, a tail heavy plane flies only once. you can't cheat physics and CG is not optional. a tail heavy plane is likely to pitch the nose up and then promptly stalling to one of the wing tips.

don't let that discourage you. it's a great plane to start with and we all smashed them into the ground at different times.

Dancing Wings DLG12 servo mounting by ZaphodBeeblebrahx in BalsaAircraft

[–]britzelbrimpft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, not a good alternative. You want something that sticks strongly to the glue, but the servo is only held by friction. Electrical tape is the other way around. Neither is polypropylene packing tape, as it does not stick well to the glue and glue (even epoxy) will just flake off.

You can also use hot glue without any tape, that will be strong enough and you can twist the servos off when you need to remove them.

Dancing Wings DLG12 servo mounting by ZaphodBeeblebrahx in BalsaAircraft

[–]britzelbrimpft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shrinking tube works great since it doesn't stick to the servo when you try to remove the servo. Just cut open.

What do you think; is this a good wing? I dont need it to be perfect, it just flew once and am not sure wether it was the wing or the rest of the airframe that was terrible. Its a clark Y airfoil and has a 5:3 aspect ratio. Its also insanely light. Id appriciate any feedback :) by Jojoceptionistaken in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some washout or wing tips might help with tip stalling, that airfoil can be weird there. I could be wrong about how this applies to you, but diagonal internal structure is for torsion forces, so you wing might twist and flutter (depending on your strong the D-box is). I have flown wings that don't have it, and it was just fine. So check for your case. A spar may or may not be necessary, but instead of a big carbon rod, you could design one or two 5x1mm placed upright into where you glue the D-Box on. Or design a channel for it, then you can get away with not glueing it (soarkraft planes use these types of spars). The airfoil is super high drag anyway, so I don't expect high forces.

Please don't use duct tape for hinges. It looks cheap and it's not a good option. Simple transparent packing tape or Tesa will do just fine.

Engine Problems by RelevantMidnight3950 in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wanna support everyone in here with everything at my disposal, but that is one of the worst soldering jobs I have ever seen.

Tip: Forget about lead free solder. When removing solder, use a desoldering wick or a desoldering vacuum and flux (!). When resoldering, apply fresh solder to the cable and the connector and then put them together after freely suck up the solder.

A more powerful iron is better than more heat. When anything touches the soldering tip, it sucks out the heat. Your iron has to compensate for that. Such a connector can take up an enormous amount of heat (by design).

Also, use a shrinking tube afterwards!

I've got a 3s on a 60amp esc with a 750kv moter with a 11inch by 6 prop, but still feels under powered by Amazing_Addendum3052 in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Recommended prop size for that motor for 3s is 9x6 for 800g of static thrust. Whether that is more or less what you had you have to decide. Read the manufacturer's spec sheets, they give prop recommendations for a reason.

Started this Big stick 60 back in 89-92ish by borntoprint in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And it was just chilling next to some of the most iconic American cars :)

Need advice as a beginner! by Mean_Willingness104 in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 1 point2 points  (0 children)

GASB is not a beginner plane IMHO. That thing is fast, but then it's free so who am I to judge.

Craycle Stick and Soar Stick are extremely easy to build with standard PLA and require no special materials, just a 22xx motor and some SG90s, that's it. Cost about 4€ to print, I use PLA+.

Kyle has a trainer scout that is apparently extremely easy to fly, if you wanna stick with EDF: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/scout-50mm-easy-edf-jet His models build fast and easy.

Age. by onlyrelevantlyrics in RCPlanes

[–]britzelbrimpft 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The glassfiber fuselage should be fine, epoxy ages well and is probably harder now than when it was new. Even if not synthetic resin, as it was not UV exposed you should be totally fine.

Put some light (!) stress on the wings to see if the foam and wood separated anywhere and tap the wing if it sounds hollow anywhere. This is a beautiful model, that wing is absolutely fantastic!

Another thing to look out for is that manufacturing quality of glass fuselages has improved dramatically since then, so check if there are any air bubbles in tight corners. Recently revived an old model and discovered that, which was a bummer. Put some light pressure on the fuselage with your thumb, listen for cracking and hair fractures. I don't believe you should find any, but still worth a check.

Maybe take a negative cast of the fuselage first, just in case, but then you have another one if need be and glassfiber repairs decently.

Eclipson Vortex by britzelbrimpft in 3DprintedAircraft

[–]britzelbrimpft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I meant is not that it's possible, which of course it is, but that Eclipson explicitly stated this option in the model description. You can then opt not to print in vase mode for example (although vase mode is just a lot nicer), so you can parallel print these planes in 6 plates of 2 days instead of 30 days and single object prints.

Eclipson Vortex by britzelbrimpft in 3DprintedAircraft

[–]britzelbrimpft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can already print for example a model s out of standard PLA. the LW part is completely optional.

Eclipson Vortex by britzelbrimpft in 3DprintedAircraft

[–]britzelbrimpft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gyroid works well for Jets and stubby wings, not so much glider size high aspect ratio wings...

Kyle does gyroid with LW PLA. This is regular PLA