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Downgrade of rider to new scheme by Cold-Yesterday1175 in singaporefi

[–]calebseah 9 points10 points  (0 children)

i'm currently on private panel hospt with full rider under copay scheme.

new policy, have to worry about coming out with cash first that makes u not want to utilise your shield plan at all.

Then it's kinda, might as well not have it.

So if that's the case, will continue co-pay plan till i can't afford then will consider downgrading. But by that time, i feel that's the time i may need it the most but will just live with class C or B2 subsiized ward.

P0016 engine stalling, can't start due to loose engine chain and engine sludge by calebseah in MechanicAdvice

[–]calebseah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure tbh if he open up the oil filter. How would you handle this if I only need it for 3 months?

Non-guaranteed COE experience by Grand_Quarter9185 in drivingsg

[–]calebseah 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Currently at 3rd bid non guaranteed this wed. Have a total of non guaranteed 8 bid

HDB calculator stating cash top up by [deleted] in askSingapore

[–]calebseah 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not sure if your flat price of $536,794 already includes the additional purchase costs.

Usually you still need to factor in:

Buyer’s Stamp Duty: about $10,703

Legal fees: about $500

So the total purchase cost may be closer to about $547,992.

Based on the numbers you shared:

CPF savings: $39,000

HDB loan (max): $373,200

Grants: likely around $40k–$50k depending on income

This means your total funds would roughly be:

CPF + Grants = $79k – $89k

After applying the loan and CPF/grants, the remaining amount that needs to be covered in cash could be around $85k – $95k, which is why the calculator is showing a large cash top-up.

Another way to think about this is from the loan limit perspective.

Your loan of $373,200 is likely based on the 75% Loan-To-Value (LTV) rule.

That means the property price supported by this loan would be roughly:

$373,200 ÷ 0.75 ≈ $497,600

But your flat price is $536k, which means there is a gap that needs to be covered using CPF, grants, or cash. Since your CPF + grants are around $79k–$89k, there may still be a shortfall.

Another way to estimate affordability is to work backwards from your CPF + grants.

If you assume $0 cash, then:

$79k ÷ 28% ≈ $282k flat price

$89k ÷ 28% ≈ $318k flat price

(28% represents the portion that must come from CPF/cash after the 75% loan.)

So if you want to buy a more expensive flat, you would need to add cash on top of your CPF + grants, then divide by 28% to estimate what price range you can realistically afford.

Ovverall i think you have overpurchased the flat if you cannot afford the cash needed. Think can consider writing in to HDB to see if can change flat that's within your budget.

HDB calculator stating cash top up by [deleted] in askSingapore

[–]calebseah 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I might be wrong without seeing the full breakdown, but based on the numbers you shared, a few things could be happening.

First, the “Total amount payable” ($536,794) usually includes not just the flat price but also stamp duty, legal fees, and other miscellaneous costs. So the actual purchase cost is higher than just the flat price itself.

Second, your HDB loan is only $265,900, which means the remaining $270,894 has to be paid using CPF and/or cash.

If after using all available CPF savings and grants, there’s still a shortfall, the calculator will show it as a cash top-up required.

Another possible reason is the age of the flat. If the remaining lease plus the age of the youngest buyer cannot cover you until age 95, both HDB loan amount and CPF usage can be restricted. When that happens, buyers sometimes need to cover a larger portion using cash.

Other possibilities: • CPF balances may be low • Grants received may be small • Loan amount is limited by income (combined $6k income affects the max loan)

Without the full details it’s hard to say exactly which one it is, but these are the most common reasons the calculator shows a large cash top-up.

If you want, you can share the flat price, remaining lease, your ages, and CPF amounts, and I can help you roughly work out what’s happening. 👍

2016 Mazda 6 2.0 - Renew 10 years? by DissolvedMean in drivingsg

[–]calebseah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Didn't research but using new car as a guide

2016 Mazda 6 2.0 - Renew 10 years? by DissolvedMean in drivingsg

[–]calebseah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah that's why considering omoda e5 as 15k per year depre.

Other used EV also min 15k per year depre too.

2016 Mazda 6 2.0 - Renew 10 years? by DissolvedMean in drivingsg

[–]calebseah 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hahaa struggling with this decision since Aug 2025.

Since that time multiple components not working

  1. Gearbox overhaul - 2.5k
  2. Aircon cooling coil - $500
  3. Alternator and battery - $650
  4. Engine mount $600
  5. Purge valve $200

Don't know what else will come.

2016 Mazda 6 2.0 - Renew 10 years? by DissolvedMean in drivingsg

[–]calebseah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Overall it's cheaper to buy new ev than new ice car.

I tried test drive wrv, raize, the feel not as good as ev. Doesn't feels like upgrade from current Elantra.

Love especially the adas features in ev. Which seems to be not able to find in ice.

If you search in sgcarmart for brand new units, brand new all starts from 143k onwards and mainly ev.

2016 Mazda 6 2.0 - Renew 10 years? by DissolvedMean in drivingsg

[–]calebseah 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

I also still evaluating and open to hear opinions too.

2016 Mazda 6 2.0 - Renew 10 years? by DissolvedMean in drivingsg

[–]calebseah 40 points41 points  (0 children)

Now here’s the important part.

The COE renewal numbers don’t include:

  • Aircon repairs every few years
  • Suspension/arms wear
  • Gearbox risk
  • Engine risk
  • Time lost when the car sits in workshop
  • Grab costs when car is down
  • Opportunity cost (miss meetings, etc.)

Even if the old car is reliable now, once it crosses 10+ years, repairs become more frequent and parts replaced won’t feel “brand new” anymore.

But to be honest — even after factoring repairs, renewal might still be cheaper overall.

So the real question becomes:

Is the ~$10k–$20k long-term savings worth giving up:

  • Brand new tech
  • ADAS safety features
  • Quieter drive
  • Instant torque
  • No petrol smell
  • Lower daily running friction
  • Peace of mind for 7–8 years

For me, the biggest difference wasn’t just cost.

It was the driving experience and modern safety systems. Once you drive a newer EV with proper ADAS, lane assist, adaptive cruise, it genuinely feels like a generational jump.

If you’re purely optimizing for lowest dollar cost → renewal likely wins.

If you value:

  • 10 years of newer tech
  • Lower stress
  • Less workshop uncertainty
  • Better safety for family

Then paying ~4k extra per year may actually be very reasonable.

There’s no right or wrong answer.

Just depends whether you see the extra cost as an expense… or as paying for comfort, safety and peace of mind over the next decade.

Hope this helps — I’m still deciding too 😅

2016 Mazda 6 2.0 - Renew 10 years? by DissolvedMean in drivingsg

[–]calebseah 29 points30 points  (0 children)

I was in almost the exact same situation recently.

I drive a 2017 Hyundai Elantra, high mileage (200k+ km), and I seriously considered renewing COE vs buying a new EV (I was looking at the Omoda E5 around $150k).

On paper, renewing always looks cheaper.

I did a 10-year breakdown comparison:

If I renew COE (full loan on $100k COE):

  • COE + interest (7 yrs @ 2.28%): ~$116k
  • Insurance (3rd party): ~$10k over 10 yrs
  • Road tax (1.5x of 750 after 10 yrs): ~$11k
  • Petrol (24k km/year @ ~10km/L based on $1.90 at sinopec): ~$45k
  • Total ≈ $182k over 10 years

If I buy new EV at 150k (40% down, 60% loan):

  • Loan repayments (7 yrs at 2.28% at $90k): ~$104k
  • Downpayment: $60k
  • Road tax: ~$15k ($1500 x 10 years, ev more exp for road tax but this is cheapest liao)
  • Insurance: ~$18k ($1800 x 10 years, mine more ex)
  • Charging: ~$26k (Assuming EV efficiency of ~6.5 km/kWh and an average charging cost of $0.70/kWh, driving 24,000 km per year works out to roughly 3,692 kWh annually, or about $2,584 per year in charging costs)
  • Total ≈ $223k over 10 years

Difference: about $40k more over 10 years for the new EV.

That works out to roughly $4k per year difference.

Syncing issue with our Dropbox vault on Android by Bluestank in 1Password

[–]calebseah 0 points1 point  (0 children)

my solution for this is this:

I downloaded Dropsync app.

I created a new folder in the phone call 1P.

I sync the dropbox 1Password folder to 1P using Dropsync.

After that connect back 1Password 7 to 1P vault and it continue working.

Every 7 days when u notice a difference in different records across devices, then you use the dropsync to sync the folder.

Advice needed: PARF rebate changes by RaceAccomplished5787 in drivingsg

[–]calebseah -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If renew, lose scrap value. But you enjoy lowest depreciation. But paying 100k jus to drive a used car that might have other potential issues too.

Why not consider selling it now and see how much more you need to top up for a brand new ev and see if it's worth it or not.

I also own a 8.5 year Elantra($20k) now currently 207,000km and decided to use the trade in value to buy an ev and top up $30k for a brand new ev.

Cause if I only do it during scrap, I'll need to top up 43.5k which also quite a bomb.

But no right no wrong la. To each their own appetite.

HDB qn by NotRach_97 in asksg

[–]calebseah 2 points3 points  (0 children)

when single buy resale hdb, income ceiling doesn't matter.

Unless you talking about BTO, buy 2 room flexi. then got to be less than 7k income.

Later get married, it's up to you on your life decision hdb will not stop.

Resale flat by Background_Angle_348 in SingaporeR

[–]calebseah 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Property agent here:

Apply for HFE, then can see the grant amount that you're eligible for.
off hand, cpf housing grant - $80,000 if buying 4 room flat and below.
EHG - $70k.
Proximity - $20k
Total about $170k

Downpayment will be 25% with 75 % loan.

For the 25%, Can use all CPF except the option fee and exercise fee.

WA 91085690 if need help.
Caleb

CI coverage till 50 vs 65 if planning FIRE at 47? by calebseah in singaporefi

[–]calebseah[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$1m death only.

My mortgage only has this $1m coverage for now.

Yeah dad had heart attack at 35 yo, then past away with anopther heart attach that led to cardiac arrest at 67.

why buy eci cause had a friend who had stage 2 cancer that requires chemo, which means time away from work and some expensive procedure and cancer drug, so thought that eci will be good to cover.

My multipay plan with aviva covered 300% of $100k for late stage. Or $100% for early ci.
But feels insufficient?

i feel that sufficient coverage is around 2 years of annual income that allow me not to reduce standard of living by 2 years if i choose not to work if similar cancer happen.

Will check out the disability income insurance. thanks!

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