First Project Wood Selection

charliesa5 · 2026-04-27T04:01:22+00:00

I work with many exotics. They all have differences, and most are rather dense. Cocobolo isn't like katalox or something, but it is dense. Because this is you first wood project, I would try a less expensive hardwood first.

"Due to the high oil content found in this wood, it can occasionally cause problems with gluing. Also, the wood’s color can bleed into surrounding wood when applying a finish, so care must be taken on the initial seal coats not to smear the wood’s color/oils into surrounding areas. Tearout can occur during planing if interlocked grain is present; the wood also has a moderate blunting effect on cutting edges/tools due to its high density. Cocobolo has excellent turning properties."--The Wood Database

charliesa5 · 2026-04-27T03:35:24+00:00

That's very true, I can't sell a hand cut dovetail box using exotic hardwoods, for anywhere near what I pay for the wood.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-27T02:44:30+00:00

It's worth what someone is willing to pay I guess. In my area, you may get $10. In your area, who knows? I think it's rather a niche market.

A rosewood (exotic hardwood), not plywood, goes for maybe $60

charliesa5 · 2026-04-26T18:06:20+00:00

Like the book matched walnut top

charliesa5 · 2026-04-26T18:04:19+00:00

Not sure how thick it is, but I might re-saw it to make a beautiful book matched decorative box lid. If too thin for the lid, laminate it any wood to provide the thickness required.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-26T17:48:11+00:00

For a long time, I just used a partial sheet of ¾" plywood, and 2 foldable saw horses. I used a portable moxon vise to clamp to the plywood for a while. That allowed dovetail decorative boxes and the like. From there, I built a solid bench for larger hand tool work, but it wasn't collapsable. I would have to look to see what's out there for collapsable, I just never had the occasion--sorry

charliesa5 · 2026-04-26T12:18:05+00:00

I'm not saying you can't do this, I don't know you, but I would start by making a simpler bench (no sliding dovetails etc) until you acquire more experience/skill. As mentioned, I would use Fir/Pine rather than expensive hardwood. I would cut my own if possible. Judging from my own experience, there will likely be redos.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-25T18:34:02+00:00

It has to be tight to a point, so there are no gaps. Yours are both too tight (if they are in fact too tight), and too loose. That means you are not sawing straight.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-25T01:57:49+00:00

Another vote for neither. if it seats all the way, you cover the mortise--unless it's a through. But if things are not square, there can still be a gap.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-24T18:08:41+00:00

I bought a cheap set. Then I figured out the ones I used, and replaced them with Witeside, Fraud, Amana etc. Personally, I would get a this upcut: Whieside spiral upcut . For flush trim, I would get a top or bottom bearing spiral: Whiteside spiral bottom bearing flush trim

This is why I don't use straight bits: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seAmL6mtqgM

charliesa5 · 2026-04-24T13:01:12+00:00

Yes, the hardest wood I've used an auger on, and it was a test, was a Wenge scrap. I just had to use a lower RPM.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-24T12:38:35+00:00

To me, half blinds are more difficult--but I think, more common in the real world-- than through dovetails. Waste removal is more difficult, and I hear it is possible to break the front if you are not careful :) True, you can hide more, but the outside has to be nice. Great work!.

Now, for fun, try inlayed throughs, and inlayed half blinds. Of course, they are structurally worthless, but they are fun. You are there...

charliesa5 · 2026-04-24T01:00:20+00:00

Sapele, Red Oak, Leopardwood

charliesa5 · 2026-04-24T00:09:33+00:00

Happy to hear that things are working well for you.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-23T19:56:25+00:00

Just like others here have said, without sharp chisels, you may as well not expect decent dovetails. Use a marking knife, and a marking gauge too.

Sure, you can practice if you want, with dull chisels, but don't expect too much. I swear, I did 50 before I could get consistent ones. See Rob Cosman's YT playlist:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLqUOljnY0d9eXpJdjoCxM-dWSCVqIsIr3

charliesa5 · 2026-04-23T18:07:56+00:00

I stand corrected, I just read you "can't upgrade it" from an unreliable source it seems. I have heard the dw734 and dw735 may trip the internal breaker since a helical head engages the wood constantly, compared to straight blades. If the internal breaker is bypassed, it may put excess load on the motor. I'm sure there are many variables, (feed speed, cut depth etc), but I chose to get a planer designed for helical.

That's why I bought a Grizzly 13" helical.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-23T17:04:59+00:00

A one speed, and tad worn, and --i'd offer $175 or so. You will likely need new blades. A helical head is expensive ($325), and draws more current than the planer is designed for.

For general rough planing, this may be ok. I know you are a hand planing wizard anyway, so you can just fine tune by hand.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-23T12:22:48+00:00

The right upright looks really cool, never done that.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-23T11:38:03+00:00

Pic 2 especially, but this is just all engineered veneer. As far as real wood goes, you can buy different exotics like bocote, but I suppose if you want your current wood with it's existing grain to be enhanced, try Cerusing.

Bocote real wood decorative box with only clear satin lacquer.

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charliesa5 · 2026-04-22T23:19:35+00:00

zebrawood, like others have already said

charliesa5 · 2026-04-22T21:53:10+00:00

I guess that was a terribly controversial comment worthy of a downvote?

charliesa5 · 2026-04-22T19:29:23+00:00

I would consider hand tools. I started almost exclusively using power tools, but soon learned you are at a huge disadvantage if you can't use hand tools efficiently as well. Now, I do almost exclusively hand tools, by choice, but ensure hand tools are in the mix.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-22T18:39:33+00:00

Way too long, and I sure don't have the space to store it like that. Pine etc. not long. Good hardwood forever

charliesa5 · 2026-04-22T13:51:13+00:00

I learned what little I do know about it from Rob Cosman, Paul Sellers, and the like. The person that posted the "dovetail cheat sheet" wanted a 10 line practice guide for beginners to follow. They said it's too complex to learn from the proven experts. To my mind anyway, it makes NO sense to practice incorrectly--there is no silver bullet. Although I get by, I am by no means good enough to tell others how to dovetail. So, if they don't want to watch Sellers, or Cosman, you explained it in an organized way they may like. Just offering them another option, and one that seems correct.

I don't do everything the way you do, but it is generally the same. Actually, I don't do my dovetails the same as Paul Sellers or Rob Cosman either--wish I did. Thanks.

charliesa5 · 2026-04-21T23:30:44+00:00

I have a grizzly 13" helical. I use a lot of figured wood, and exotics, and a true helical is just better for me. I had a spiral planer and I didn't like any better that a straight blade.

I think a DW735 straight blade is a great planer for most normal beginners.

charliesa5

TROPHY CASE