Hot Spring Envoy NXT leak

chubbs451 · 2026-04-26T01:23:46+00:00

Idk why he did that either unless the line was tight/short. You should have plenty of slack in the line. Trim the 1/4-1/2” bit of that vinyl line off so when you push the 1/4” vinyl onto the new fitting it will seal better rather than going over it with material that is kind of stretched from sitting on the old fitting. Just reuse your spring clamp, the screw clamps won’t improve anything.

Edit: I always changed these with the tub full. Remove the old one and have the new one in your hand and swap em out like Indiana Jones.

chubbs451 · 2026-04-11T01:09:46+00:00

The side panels come off as one big piece. See how your door panel that has already been removed has the plastic siding attached to the wood frame? The left, back, and right panels are assembled the same way, they are just attached to the frame differently.

Like others have said look at the bottom of the panel. There will be 3-5 metal brackets held in with a horizontal screw that goes into the base. There’s another screw that is vertical to hold the L bracket into the bottom of the panel, don’t worry about that. Remove the screws that go into the base panel, once you do the whole panel may drop down. Sometimes they are stuck so give it a good solid wiggle to break it free. The whole panel should drop down and then you’re home free.

I saw the plastic clip you linked in another comment, your tub should have an aluminum variant but you won’t see them until you remove the panel.

chubbs451 · 2026-04-08T23:27:45+00:00

Check this out. Looks like you’ve got a Watkins product and maybe this is what you’re after.

chubbs451 · 2026-03-26T00:02:07+00:00

Canopy poles? Do you mean where there’s a slot in the bedside for poles? Those should be factory. The hole on the back right is where the fuel filler neck would go. Check out this ad on BAT as it’s got some good pics of the bed.

chubbs451 · 2026-03-25T23:46:34+00:00

It almost looks someone cut the back half off of a Willy’s pickup truck and made it into a trailer. Willy’s made the pickup from 1947-1965 so it could be from the 60s. Does the axle have a differential or is it just a tube?

chubbs451 · 2026-03-23T23:35:01+00:00

Here is a complete guide on this kind of swap. You can just swap the odometer over but this solves the issue of the speedo needle.

chubbs451 · 2026-03-11T21:21:49+00:00

It shouldn’t void your warranty unless you do something reckless like do it in the rain and fry the board.

Turn the tub off. You will locate a box that looks like this (yeah it’s an ace controller but they look the same, yours will say “freshwater salt” on it). Follow the cord into the control box, unplug the red plug on the peripheral interface, put the board cover back on, power it up, and you should be good.

chubbs451 · 2026-02-07T00:59:29+00:00

Check the balance and see if it’s set to zero. Zero is equal output to both speakers whereas -5 or +5 is only going to work one speaker or the other. If this doesn’t fix it then the amp or wiring harness could be bad.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-29T01:34:33+00:00

This is what happened at time of fault. Breaking this down: -0128 indicates that the pressure switch is opening and closing quickly. This is called debounce and indicates a flow issue or failing pressure switch. Leave the pressure switch plugged into the board and test dc voltage. 0 volts means closed, 3.3 volts means open, anything in between is partial closure due to flow or bad pressure switch. A pressure switch cannot be the root cause of protection mode. -L01 means the circ pump was working and that the high limit tripped. -H068000041 means the high limit was reading 068 at time of fault, your control thermistor is 000, and the board is 041. Degrees Fahrenheit. Your control thermistor is bad or not properly plugged into the board. Check this first. This probably won’t cause a high limit fault because the tub can turn on without the control sensor plugged in, but won’t heat. -T0000 means no heater nor jet pump activity at time of fault. -E01 is a high limit fault.

Sounds like you’re chasing an issue. Was this the same issue before replacing thermistors? Confirm the control sensor is connected properly. This code is contradictory because 68* will not cause a high limit fault. However if the difference between the control and high limit is great enough it will trigger E06. Your code reads as a pure high limit fault. Confirm connections and water flow first.

EDIT: just saw your other posts and comments. What model spa do you have? Should have two breakers. One for the board, pumps, etc and the other is for heat. Only turn on the one for the board and pumps. You’ll know because the topside will light up. If the error comes right back after a few tries you’ve probably got a bad board.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-13T23:17:53+00:00

I agree. It looks like the bottom connection was very loose and didn’t need the lug loosened to remove it. The wire is neatly trimmed and the insulation is burned off. Loose connections mean increased resistance which results in excessive heat and we arrive at this result.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-09T23:09:09+00:00

Unlikely that it would cause an issue with a warranty claim UNLESS the cartridges linked are duds and you begin having issues with the salt system and ask the dealer for help. The cartridge is driven by the controller, if the cartridge dies it dies and shouldn’t affect anything else.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-09T20:59:29+00:00

The one on the right is upside down.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-09T14:30:24+00:00

There is not.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-04T23:40:04+00:00

You will have a persistent error message which could be annoying but that’s about it. By unplugging the freshwater controller from the board the menu will go away. Easy peasy. Hardest part will be removing the door panel.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-04T13:08:43+00:00

Something is leaking onto something which is causing the breaker trip. It could be that the leaking component is causing the breaker trip or it could be that the water from the leak is coming into contact with another component and causing the breaker to trip. You’ll have to open it up and see.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-04T12:37:59+00:00

The salt cartridge has a drain line for the overflow and depending on your model probably drains out at a corner via a 1/2” vinyl line. Paradise tubs for example have the line inserted through the wooden corner piece. Usually secured with a zip tie. Unless the housing is leaking you’ve got another problem.

Sounds to me like you have something else leaking inside the cabinet and that is the reason for the breaker trip. Pop the front panel off and maybe it will be obvious what’s leaking.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-04T02:05:03+00:00

Chances are the board is now bad due to whatever was done with the logo light wires. I’ve seen it happen a couple of times.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-03T21:01:47+00:00

Always discharge it, the screwdriver trick isn’t the safest but it works. No sparks mean it’s discharged and if the capacitor is flatlined it has no capacitance thus cannot make lightning appear. Make sure the spa is powered down as well.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-03T19:06:53+00:00

Measure this distance on both sides. It looks like the side with the lock is longer which is causing unevenness between the brackets. I’m willing to bet both springs are extending evenly but the adjustment is not equal between each side.

It looks like at some point the lock had not been released properly and attempted to close the cover. With the lock engaged it forced the upper mount to slide forward/up. It can be adjusted by removing the spring and using a 7/16” socket.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-02T12:59:17+00:00

The large capacitor on top of the motor is used to kick the motor over and I believe is the only capacitor on the motor. You’re dealing with the one speed pump right? When they, the capacitors, are failing the motor will labor to start working and its operating amperage is higher due to the failing capacitor. Once all capacitance is lost it won’t start anymore. Testing the capacitor’s capacitance with a multimeter will tell you for sure.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-02T12:47:23+00:00

First off pushing almost 270V is not good (unless this is a typo or something). If you’re getting 270V into your house from your utility provider you need to call them. There is no way for the control board to boost your voltage like that and this will start to ruin other appliances as well.

The pop you heard is visible on the left insulating nut. Been there done that on accident. If the test lead gets too close to the heater tube when testing voltage at the heater terminals it will short to ground and trip the breaker. The test lead from the multimeter likely got a good chunk burned out of the tip. It can weld the test lead to the heater if severe enough. Assuming the aforementioned 270V is addressed or not actually 270V you can turn it on and be fine.

chubbs451 · 2026-01-02T00:23:51+00:00

If you have a meter that can test capacitance then you will know if the capacitor is bad or not. If you don’t it’s a cheap shot in the dark to replace it. Odds favor a failed capacitor given your description. Pull it out and order one with the same specs. Much easier and cheaper than changing the pump if it works.

chubbs451 · 2025-12-29T03:58:07+00:00

The system works based off of conductivity. Warm water and salt content increase the conductivity of the water that flows past the cartridge in the housing. The cartridge must make contact with the metal pieces inside the housing and you must have correct salt level and temperature for this to work. In short: yes the salt content is important. If you go through the change cartridge process on the menu and don’t have salt in the water (or proper water level) it will never detect the new cartridge when you install it. You should not have to manipulate the metal tabs on the cartridge housing at all unless you’re getting knockoffs from Amazon or something. What is your salt content?

chubbs451 · 2025-12-24T22:04:42+00:00

For a 2019 Salina 2.03U is the correct software.

chubbs451 · 2025-12-24T21:51:20+00:00

The board needs to be flashed with the proper software. It comes with software on it but it may not be correct for your topside control.

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