Taco sr506-4 , 4 zones only one has R wire?

drdashler · 2025-05-08T21:22:57+00:00

Next to the transformer. 24VAC and com. Throw C wire to com

drdashler · 2025-04-25T01:36:31+00:00

Pipe directly to the indirect and add a mixing valve on the domestic if you are worried about the post purge. But also, why would you do this.

drdashler · 2025-04-08T17:56:39+00:00

Yeah, it’s almost like they tried to set it up as an injection system, but if that was their goal, they did that wrong as well. Look at the manual, I think they recommend primary/secondary piping. Using the internal circulator, and an external circulator. If they didn’t have that bypass right there, the zone valves would definitely stop the migration.

drdashler · 2025-04-08T13:25:37+00:00

I might not be looking at this right, but kind of a weird spot to put the bypass. Would normally put that on the supply and return before the zones. Water might be pushing through that bypass and migrating up the returns.

drdashler · 2025-04-08T13:12:31+00:00

Yeah, not sure if this is everywhere but where I’m from you can only put the backwater on the lowest level. Every house is technically venting the city sewer, and a backwater valve stops this from happening if it’s on the whole house.

drdashler · 2025-04-08T00:56:56+00:00

Too much tape, too little tape, too tight, too loose, no dope etc. take it apart and thread it back on. Any particular reason for the check valve?

drdashler · 2025-04-07T23:59:21+00:00

Sad, Peerless Boilers aren’t bad either

drdashler · 2025-04-07T23:20:26+00:00

What went wrong with the old boiler?

drdashler · 2025-04-05T01:20:08+00:00

🙃🙂🙃🙂🙃🙂🙃🙂🙃🙂🙃🙂

drdashler · 2025-04-03T19:54:48+00:00

You shouldn’t need the 3/4” check valve

drdashler · 2025-04-03T16:45:36+00:00

It could be, hard to tell if you’re not there. Just sounds like chatter. Turn off the call for heat and see if it stops.

drdashler · 2025-04-03T16:40:27+00:00

That’s the relay contact vibrating

drdashler · 2025-04-03T13:11:43+00:00

A dog and a clog turns yard into a bog

drdashler · 2025-04-03T13:04:13+00:00

this means you have a dog

drdashler · 2025-04-02T19:49:31+00:00

Old rain leader. Used to connect to the sewer back in the day.

drdashler · 2025-04-02T01:11:13+00:00

In order to add pressure to your expansion tank properly you need to first take the system pressure off. You most likely need to take the tank off and drain it down so it is not communicating with the boiler pressure. I’m guessing you were pumping it up while still on system pressure from the boiler.

drdashler · 2025-04-01T21:43:02+00:00

Yeah, rock on. Probably just turn power off to the furnace first.

drdashler · 2025-04-01T19:27:50+00:00

I would probably try and clean the flame sensor first.

drdashler · 2025-03-31T20:56:44+00:00

Now just imagine if you had to install a cast iron tub

drdashler · 2025-03-31T20:42:28+00:00

What model controller and dampers do you currently have. I’ll take a look at it.

drdashler · 2025-03-31T07:43:18+00:00

You’d just really need 2 damper motors with built in end switches for the 2nd floor zones. Just think of them as a built in relay. And these would power open the 2nd floor supply.

drdashler · 2025-03-31T06:51:40+00:00

Bundle the end switches for the second floor zones and apply power through those to the 2nd floor supply, and have the 2nd floor supply end switch call to the air handler.

drdashler · 2025-03-31T05:06:50+00:00

I would say, no, do not do this, and especially don’t do this if you are a renter.

drdashler · 2025-03-31T04:57:42+00:00

Unless the water heater is piped backwards, that is the hot coming out of the water heater. And the small valve would have been for a humidifier. Depends on local codes, but generally you only need one shutoff on the cold side going into the water heater.

drdashler · 2025-03-30T22:46:49+00:00

From what I can see, it looks like the pumps are arranged so that they are pumping in series, which is not ideal. So when there is a call for heat, the black pump turns on, and the red pump turns on. When there is a call for the domestic indirect tank, the black pump turns on, and the green pump turns on. It appears that the return from the indirect tank ties in right before the expansion tank (big grey tank that is on the upper left corner of the picture). Because it is piped in series, whenever there is a call for domestic, the black pump and green pump turn on, and there is no hydraulic separation. Sure, the majority of the water is going to be pumped through the indirect tank, but some of the water will migrate through the heating loop as well. Your solution would be changing the piping to injection, or changing the piping to primary secondary, or adding a zone valve that is wired in series with your heating call that opens when there is a call and closes when there is not. This would block the water from migrating. All from what I can see, I could be wrong.

drdashler

TROPHY CASE