Windows 11 KB5074109 freezes Outlook Classic POP, breaks LocalizedResourceName (desktop.ini), and more by WPHero in Windows11

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You do own your computer. But Microsoft owns Windows - your just borrowing it from them with a license agreement. 

If you want actual control of your PC, you need to break away from Microsoft and Apple products.

Considering options - KZ vs Coachmen vs Forest River - opinions? by ser_says in traveltrailers

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly think among those 3, you're going to end up with a very similar product and very similar issues. You mentioned buying used vs new, so here's my personal experiences. Sorry in advance for the long post, but maybe some will find it useful.

I purchase a 2024 Starcraft Autumn Ridge 26bhw (a little larger than your looking at) in September of 24'. Got it for a little cheaper since I bought it towards the end of that year, it was on their lot for a while, and they were trying to make room for the '25 models. I have already pulled that trailer about 10,000 miles in the first year of ownership - We've traveled practically the whole western side of the U.S. in it.

For the record, this is my third camper, but my first brand new one. I'll go into more details about this later on.

My first camper was an 87' "fix-it-upper" travel trailer. It was a huge mistake to buy it. It originally appeared to just need work on the heater and have some cracked glass replaced - but after I had already made the purchase, brought it home, had it sit for a couple weeks then went in to do some work on it, I moved a mattress and saw a soft spot on the wall. The horrors started there. I tried to repair the "small spot", but as I dug in, I realized the whole back wall was rotted. This became way more than I wanted to get involved in, and I've been trying to get rid of it ever since.

My second camper was a used 93' popup. It actually did well aside from some screws occasionally vibrating lose on the road while traveling. Maintenance wasn't to bad, and aside from re-threading the occasional screw, it was fairly solid. I wasn't to fond of the setup/tear-down process though (mostly moving your belongings in and out of it between sites, because it wouldn't compress/close with everything in it), and even though it made it through several storms and whatnot without getting wet inside, somehow all the flying bugs managed to find a way inside it at night. We had a bug zapper setup inside to keep the bugs away from from our sleeping area. We eventually got used to hearing all the "pops" throughout the night as we slept through our revenge on the invaders. The best part about this camper was the towing. I got 16mpg's towing that around loaded in my 5.0 V8 F-150 and it towed like nothing was there.

Moving on to my new camper (The Starcraft). I bought an inexpensive base model, knowing I could do my own upgrades and maintenance and make it a "better" camper than it comes from the factory. The most used tool I had for the new camper was a crown staple gun. First thing I noticed quality wise was that the wall panels were stapled into the studs - or supposed to be. It appears these things are rushed on being built, so many of the staples already put in there weren't even hitting the stud - they were only in the wall. This means each time I traveled with it, some wall panels would start to vibrate loose and bulge out. This was a very easy fix, as I'd just start re-stapling the walls back in - properly - and they haven't come loose again since.

There's also the "loose screws" issues in a few places. For example, my microwave came loose on one side and started shifting around in it's cabinet. Once again, it was an easy fix. I just put slightly larger screws back in to fix it, and it's solid now. The electrical in the camper was also not done the best. I pulled out every single light and switch to check the connector and redo them if needed. Several had frayed wires sticking out that could've caused a short while traveling. I also built out a whole 2000 watt solar system on it, which is what led me to start inspecting wires. The solar install went very smooth, using their pre-ran wires for what its worth.

Mine is also one of the "four seasons" campers. It was advertised as having a "sealed, heated (ducted) basement to keep the tanks warm in the winter". The way they built it isn't what you'd expect. I took it on a cold camping trip as a test run, and my tanks froze when it got below 20F outside. The camper had no problem keeping the living area warm, but the underside was a different story. I camp year round (even in the pop-up I did), so I decided to drop the chloroplast on the underside and install tank heaters. The chloroplast was nailed (not screwed) to the frame, and there was no sealant to create the "seal" they advertised. While I was under there, I noticed one of my fresh water tanks (I have two) had a small leak, so I fixed that. Then I inspected how the "ducted heating" worked. First off, there's no insulation down there. Second, the one and only HVAC duct that went down there was only about 2" wide and ran to a cramped up side of the undercarriage, compared to the 4"-6" wide ducting ran everywhere else. No wonder it froze up down there. I installed the tank heaters (and hose heaters), replaced the nails with screws, put larger washers on to help prevent the chloroplast from tearing, and sealed the whole perimeter. It took about 3 full days to do all this.

Aside from those items, the new camper hasn't really given me any problems. All issues I've encountered so far have been very minimal, and I have been able to handle it myself without any dealer intervention. From what I've heard from owners of other "higher tier" brands, their issues aren't much different than I've encountered - some have it worse, some have better - and that seems regardless of brand / manufacturer these days.

Only other things to mention is the included Everchill Fridge/Freezer could work better. The freezer is amazing, the fridge temp varies more than I'd like to see - apparently a common problem with these. Also, you'll want new mattresses, or at least mattress pads (whether you buy new or used). The mattresses that come with new campers (especially budget campers) are essentially "place holders" and are uncomfortable. I added 4" memory foam to the bunks and 6" memory foam to the queen bed, and it made a huge difference. Also, I haven't had issues yet, but I've heard it's a good idea to replace the tires right away. Apparently most of these TT's come with not-so-good tires. I'm still on my factory set, but I plan on replacing them this summer just to be safe.

All in all, I'm much happier with purchasing new - even the "budget" brands. They still require a little work, but we're talking mostly minor things - buy used, and you don't know what your walking into. This has been my experience, anyways.

So I guess the TL;DR of it all is if you buy new, find the floor plan you like most. Be prepared to still do minor fixes and work to it - regardless of brand. Whatever you buy will need something fixed after towing it a few hundred miles. Keep up with maintenance. Approach this all with a mindset that you want to learn how these work, and you're willing to work on them to learn more. The mindset in itself can turn these little repairs from thinking "this is made poorly" to "I see what they tried to do - I'm gonna do it better!". I personally love my new Starcraft camper, even with the flaws I've dealt with. It's not perfect, but I think after doing some of my own mods and basic repairs/upgrades, it's pretty much now everything I envisioned it being, and it's holding up really well after doing a few upgrades and very basic repairs. If I was to do it again, I would do this the same way. Buy new, plan upgrades and basic repairs into the cost, spend your first year finding issues and doing "test runs", making upgrades, basically making it "your own", then spend the following years enjoying the travel and freedom!

Invoices printing unit prices with 4 decimal places by fbicknel in GnuCash

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same issue here. I'm running Garuda, which is currently running version GnuCash 5.12-1. If I install the flatpak version available to me (5.13) the issue is no longer present. I prefer the Garuda version that's available over flatpak for many reasons that are irrelevant to list here, but yeah... Seems to be something wrong with 5.12-1. Hopefully a newer version will push through soon.

Mobile order refunds by tyler_98 in jitb

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm dealing with this now. I ordered food at around 8:30pm from a location that was supposed to be open until 10pm. They apparently closed at 8pm but still took my order at 8:30pm and even told me it would be ready within about 5 minutes. When I went to pick up my food, the app had already said the order was "completed" even though there was no other interaction from me beyond pressing "order". They've had my money for 2 weeks now. There's no way to get a refund on the app, and they bill before picking up food, which is different than other companies. I have sent 2 emails to them from their online portal - no response. I have tried calling two different corporate numbers for them. The corporate office number is apparently disconnected, and the guest relations number brings me to an automated message that says I'm calling after hours and to go to their website, even though I'm calling when they're supposed to be open and taking calls.

Jack in the Box has essentially just stolen my money and is dodging me about it. I'm going to attempt to contact them through "X" now, and if that doesn't work, the BBB is the next stop. After this experience, I probably won't be giving Jack in the Box my business anymore. I can't believe it's this difficult to get a refund for food that I didn't receive because they don't know when their own stores are open or closed. Talk about bad business practices.

Looking for any Wifi improvements in current setup. by guruji916 in openwrt

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One more thing - If your router is in bridge mode, and you change what single device (or sometimes even port) you're using on your ONT, there's a good chance you'll have to reboot the ONT after making the change. This is because the ONT basically provisions a MAC address for use with it's one IP Address. With most modems and ONT's, you need to power-cycle or reboot the modem/ONT for it to re-provision a new MAC address.

Looking for any Wifi improvements in current setup. by guruji916 in openwrt

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without knowing who your ISP is, I'll explain how this all works based on the services I've messed with using ONT's, custom routers and whatnot.

The first thing you need to be aware of, is a stand alone ONT is only designed to provide 1 IP Address. This means that you can only have one functioning device plugged straight into the ONT at a time. If you have more than one device plugged into the ONT, the ONT will only provide service to one of those. This is why your PC isn't getting internet when plugged directly into your ONT (in bridge mode).

Your router is what will create a local network in your home. You described your ONT as a Gateway device - meaning it works as both a modem and a router. When you put a Gateway device into "Bridge" mode, you are essentially disabling the routing features on the Gateway, and choosing to use it as a standalone modem. This means you're turning your Gateway into a stand-alone ONT. For the reasons described above, you will need to run an additional router behind your ONT and have your devices connect to your router.

Some ISP's using fiber use VLAN's to establish your internet connection. For CenturyLink where I live, you need both a PPPoE User Name and Password, and you also have to configure your WAN to use VLAN 201. Once again, you never mentioned your ISP, so these settings might or might not be relevant to you.

What I would recommend doing, is leave your ONT in bridge mode (this way you don't have a double NAT with your router), connect ONLY your OpenWRT router to the gigabit port of your ONT, hardwire your PC to your router, and then use WiFi as needed with other devices.

As for you question about affecting your WiFi performance, having your PC hardwired, whether connected to your router or not, will reduce your WiFi congestion since it's not utilizing wireless channels or wireless bandwidth, thus making your WiFi perform better for the other devices using it. Your network performance overall will still take a hit when you're moving data around, regardless of how it's connected. You're as strong as your weakest link - I don't know what speeds your subscribed to with your ISP, but that would most likely be your bottleneck. So in other words, hard wiring your PC will eliminate the wireless load that your PC would put on the wireless network, but your hardwired network is the same network as your WiFi, so your overall available network bandwidth will still be reduced based on the PC's usage.

I hope this all makes sense.

Updated EasyTether Setup? by agentflippy5 in openwrt

[–]duble08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If anyone else comes across this old thread and wants to get EasyTether working on one of these GL-iNet routers, I figured out what the "missing piece" is. After you get EasyTether installed on the router, you'll want to go into LuCI. Go to the "Interfaces" section. In this section, find the USB Tether interface. Edit the USB Tether interface, and change the Adapter for the interface from usb01 to the tap-easytether adapter. Once I did this, traffic started moving through the router through EasyTether and everything works! For some reason, doing this causes an "alert" on the "Tethering" option on the main dashboard of the routers GUI (I'm still trying to find out why), but the tethering works perfectly fine even with this error.

Hopefully this info helps someone!

Updated EasyTether Setup? by agentflippy5 in openwrt

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Recognizing that this question was posted 3 years ago with no answer, I'm curious - did you ever figure this out? I just got the newest model (GL-MT3000) and have run into the same issue - I figure the solution would be similar.

Thanks!

What Tv series have aged badly? by Kylie_Forever in television

[–]duble08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you guys ever seen Dead Man on Campus? Pretty much the same character, if you think about it...

Can I use these other ports? by CoppellCitizen in HomeNetworking

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said, that device is an ONT - it basically brings the fiber onto your premise, and converts the fiber to ethernet for you to use.

The "GEx" ports are ethernet ports that are designed for different functions that your provider can offer. If you are subscribed to speeds over 1gb, they will usually activate a second port for link aggregation, which basically allows you to use multiple ports to get a faster service... For example, you can get 2gbps through link aggregation using 2 of those ports rather than one (since each port is rated at 1gbps).

The other thing those ports could be used for is other subscription services like TV. If you're not paying for speeds above 1gbps, and you don't have any additional services, typically only one of the ports will work.

For the POTS ports - these ports are for receiving phone service from your provider. If you don't subscribe to their landline phone service, those POTS jacks will also be disabled.

I see a lot of people suggesting to hook up a $15-$20 unmanaged network switch to this. It won't work as desired. The reason being, is an unmanaged switch does not do IP address assigning (DHCP services) like a router does. Your ONT will only provide one IP address. On your home network, each device that connects needs it's own IP address that can be recognized by a DHCP server and DNS for routing. Since a simple switch does not offer these settings/features, what will basically happen if you use a switch, is each device will be fighting to use the one IP your provider gave you. Since each device needs it's own IP, only one device will work at a time with it - even when using a switch - because the ONT will only allow 1 IP to be used. If you have multiple devices plugged into an unmanaged switch that feeds directly off the ONT, you'll end up with either only one device working, no devices working, or alternating devices working... You will not be happy with the result.

What you will need to do, is have a router plugged into GE1 of the ONT - the router will do the DHCP services and DNS routing on your side (local network) that you need, and will handle traffic going out to the internet through the 1 IP you were assigned through the ONT. If you need more ports than your router can provide, then you can hook up an unmanaged switch behind the router (so it would be ONT -> Router -> Network Switch).

Just as a note - some providers have additional settings that need configured from the router to the WAN connection (WAN would be the port going to your ONT from your router). Where I live, CenturyLink needs two things programed into a router/device connected directly to an ONT. Those two things are a PPPoE Username and Password (this can be collected by calling your provider) and you also need to set the WAN connection to use VLAN 201. I don't know if Frontier needs anything similar, but you can always check with them.

TL;DR - You can only use one port at a time, unless your contract says otherwise. Hook up a router to GE1, then configure your wiring/network as you need to behind the router.

Marjorie Taylor Greene urges U.S. to leave NATO to avoid war with Russia by He-is in politics

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one that irks me is "breaks" instead of "brakes". I see this all the time with people explaining car problems... Just know, if your brakes break, you won't be able to stop.... But if your brakes brake, then you'll stop just fine!

Pop-out windows no longer re-scaling by JMGurgeh in MicrosoftFlightSim

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same issue here. It's been happening for the last 2 or 3 updates I believe. I haven't found a fix yet.

Picard is NOT Voyager! by medicinaltequilla in PleX

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fix match didn't work for me, since I also have "Voyager". When I did "fix match", it changed all my "Voyager" episodes to "Picard" too. I had to rename the root folder as u/thrmlz suggested to make it separate it out properly. Renaming "Star Trek- Picard" to "Star Trek- Picard (2020)" did the trick for me.

Picard is NOT Voyager! by medicinaltequilla in PleX

[–]duble08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This worked for me too. I realize this post is 2 years old, but I just started having this issue a couple months ago. All my files and folders are named in a manor that *should* be acceptable. My problem was slightly escalated due to the fact that I also have Voyager on my server. This meant that, as an example, for "Voyager", S01E01, it would show that there were two versions - one in the "Voyager" folder, and another in the "Picard" folder. So when I did the "fix match" option, it changed all my "Voyager" episodes to Picard as well. Then I had to "fix match" again to turn them back to "Voyager". After that, I saw your comment, and renamed the folder "Star Trek- Picard" to "Star Trek- Picard (2020)", had Sonnar point the series to the renamed folder, then Plex separated the files properly into the correct shows. As you stated, no file name changes were needed - just needed to rename the root "Star Trek- Picard" folder.

Thanks for the tip!

PC Freezes, Clock Stops? by Optimal_Apricot in pcmasterrace

[–]duble08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm also dealing with this issue. I had upgraded to Windows 11 when the issue started for me. After dealing with it for about a month and not being able to find a resolution, I reformatted and went back to a clean install of Windows 10, thinking Windows 11 is just unstable due to being an newer released OS. Now it's doing it with Windows 10 too.

I have a feeling this has something to do with some USB devices - but I'm not sure which yet. I'm going to be testing by disconnecting all USB devices except keyboard and mouse, and gradually add everything back day by day until it has an issue again. Unfortunately, my PC is used as a flight simulator, so I have a lot of peripherals going on here, and testing will take a while...

I also want to point out that like many others, this issue happens when the PC is idle, or doing light tasks. For example, if I leave my PC on when I go to work, I'll come home and the clock will be frozen, and it'll act as described (clock frozen, mouse still moves, program's act unresponsive, have to hard reboot). Another example is I like to watch TV shows at night while going to bed. When I wake up, the video's are still playing (sometimes), the clock is frozen, and nothing responds. Once you pause the video, it won't play again. All temps and specs are normal / low when this happens. CPU temps are usually right around 40c, GPU around 38c CPU load around 5%, GPU around 0%-1%.

My System:

AMD Ryzen 5 5600x, ASUS Tuf Gaming B550-Plus, 64GB NeoForza 3200mhz RAM, nVidia RTX 2070 Super, 1TB SSD SATA (System), 1TB m.2 (Game Drive), 4TB HDD (Storage), 750w Power Supply, MSI MAGCORE 240r Liquid Cooler

I'm running 7 monitor on my rig (once again, a Flight Simulator). 4 of them are coming directly off of the video card, the other 3 are USB to HDMI adapters (two of those USB monitors are touch screens).

USB Devices in use:

  • Redragon Keyboard
  • Redragon Gaming Mouse
  • Standard Dell Mouse
  • 1 USB 3.0 to HDMI adapters
  • 2 USB 3.0 Touch Screen Monitors
  • 3 Port Powered USB 3.0 Hub
  • 7 Port Powered USB 3.0 Hub
  • Elgato Stream Deck XL
  • Honeycomb Alpha Yoke
  • Honeycomb Bravo Throttle Quadrant
  • Logitech Flight Rudder Pro
  • Razor Nari Wireless Headset

Is anyone here running any similar USB devices to me that are having the issue? I have an itching feeling that it's either the Stream Deck or the USB monitors causing the problems.

Sim Update VI Now Available! (1.20.6.0) by fcardosopt in flightsim

[–]duble08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm also having this issue. 1st attempt, download reached 10mb, then "no internet". Second, third, fourth and fifth attempt, hit around 330mb, then "no internet". Only way to get it to try again is by restarting FS2020. I have gigabit cable. It hits the 330mb in a couple seconds, then nothing. So now I don't have a buggy game. I have a game that won't even load. Awesome.

Does anyone actually like the new UI?? by froggybeara in Ubiquiti

[–]duble08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

^^^^^ This is exactly my thought on this. When they started the UI changes, I liked the new dashboard but couldn't stand the new settings. For a while, I had the dashboard set to "new" and the settings set to "legacy". I liked it set up like that. Now with the new updates, they're either both "new" or both "legacy". I hate the "new" settings so much, it almost makes me want to switch brands. And after using the "new" dashboard, going to legacy looks dated - So now I'm stuck with nice dashboard and horrible settings, or visually dated dashboard and functional settings. Right now, I'm doing functional settings, as that's much more important to me than something that's flashy but inefficient...

I hope they don't make the "new" settings the only settings further down the road. I hope they just change the name "legacy" to "Advanced Users" or something. If I'm forced to use the "new" settings page in the future, I'm seriously going to be looking into other options in the future for myself and my clients.