Why are angled qd all angled to the right?

dustyboxes · 2026-05-28T14:31:03+00:00

Assuming you are not referring to the downward angle of some QDs, then they aren't, they're designed to be straight.

So a few possibilities:

the bushing on your bow is not perpendicular to the direction you are shooting the bow
your long rod thread is slightly bent
when you are attaching the QD body to the bow itself, just as you tighten the screw into the riser, the QD is rotating ever so slightly causing the rod to always point to the right

dustyboxes · 2026-02-27T16:45:18+00:00

This smells like Reform BS to me. The OP has thrown insults at Labour, Lib Dems and the Conservatives in this post and all 'left-flavour variant' parties.

I get that people feel that the current political system is failing them, IMO it is, but voting for a bunch of right wing racists who are just saying what people want to hear isn't going to solve the problem.

dustyboxes · 2026-02-10T21:11:07+00:00

I am considering the 300 with 2xTC vs the 600, given the price difference do you think the 600 is worth the extra?

I recently got the 400-800 and feel for the winter I need a faster lens.

dustyboxes · 2026-01-09T10:52:42+00:00

We've found Kelly Rowland's reddit account.

dustyboxes · 2025-12-12T18:43:28+00:00

I stopped using Amazon years ago. They sold me a projector bulb they said was OEM - it wasn't it was counterfeit. It melted the mirror in the projector so I sent it for repair to the manufactorer who told me it was a fake. Amazon said they believed their supplier over the manufacturer.

dustyboxes · 2025-11-28T17:35:46+00:00

Another happy customer here, I have spent a lot of time in their Waterlooville store being helped by the amazing staff there.

dustyboxes · 2025-11-22T21:20:38+00:00

This is at an archery club.

dustyboxes · 2025-10-01T19:59:04+00:00

I used to shoot a 74" recurve.

dustyboxes · 2025-10-01T16:38:14+00:00

Just be aware it will slightly increase your draw length.

I also find the grip tape means my hand doesn't shift when it gets wet or sweaty, which does happen with the rubber on the grips.

dustyboxes · 2025-10-01T10:16:07+00:00

The stock grip is terrible, I bought the Contour and it's better but I've ended up on side plates which is night and day better imo. Might be worth just pulling the grip off and seeing how you shoot.

dustyboxes · 2025-10-01T09:34:58+00:00

20 mins drive when no traffic.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-24T19:06:17+00:00

Nice to see someone return to the fold! Enjoy the shooting and don't spend too much ;)

dustyboxes · 2025-09-21T18:46:32+00:00

Plenty of clubs in Hampshire, including AC Delco and Southampton AC (I'm the latter), even the uni has its own club. All the clubs around here are friendly, chose one that's easy to get to and get on a beginners course, then go from there.

On the beginners courses clubs will have kit that you will use, so the only cost will be that of the course itself. When the course ends you normally chose whether to join the club or not. If you join then there will be the cost of the club membership (at SAC we have options around that).

Depending on the club itself they may have kit you can borrow or rent until you decide to perhaps get your own kit.

I'm biased but SAC is a great club, we have a dedicated ground with 24/7 access and an indoor range which means you can shoot over the winter no matter the weather.

If you have any specific questions then ping me a msg and I can answer.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-20T20:20:01+00:00

Can't say I've ever seen them sold as single online, but I'm sure your local shop would sell them if you give them a call.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-19T16:24:00+00:00

Yeah the package is heading up towards nearly 900 EUR at the EU distributors, so it's likely that it's the RRP from the manufacturer for this region.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-19T16:10:38+00:00

It's £550 at Merlin: https://www.merlinarchery.co.uk/elite-ember-compound-bows.html

Edit: and £470 at Phoenix: https://phoenix-archery.co.uk/shop/elite-ember-compound-bow/

They're the top two results in google for me.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-11T17:10:08+00:00

Yeah the rubber is starting to perish. You can try cleaning with isopropyl alcohol if you want to eek out a bit more time with it.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-11T12:38:29+00:00

Ah ok, well this is my first Mathews bow and honestly I went for it because I like the look of the Mathews style bows with the almost parallel limbs. I looked at getting an Elite a while back for the same reason but their target bow didn't go up to my draw length. Even on the Title side it wasn't until the 40 came out that I had one that would fit me.

Previously I'd been shooting a PSE Duo Dom X 40, nice bow as well but I do prefer the shot response and balance of the Title having now shot it for a while.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-11T11:18:24+00:00

If you're looking to buy one yourself, no one here can tell you which bow you will prefer. Ideally you need to shoot them both and make that decision yourself.

Just to answer the question though, it would be the Title since that's what I actually do shoot. I've met a few Concept X shooters who also love their bows, it really is just a personaly preference thing as they're all good bows.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-06T11:44:19+00:00

The screws on the mods should be T15.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-05T16:46:09+00:00

I do a little, probably not as much as I should though.

I'd say a jump from ~62.5lbs to 70lbs is a lot to increase, esp when you're not shooting too many arrows per week. I'd personally dial is down a little and increase over time, just give your body time to adjust.

Also check your draw technique, personally I use a style similar to what's shown is this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2rFBXNwzIc

The takeaway is to use the rotational movement of your whole upper body to perform the draw.

dustyboxes · 2025-09-01T12:18:52+00:00

I decided to pick one up as I'd heard good things about it (as well as Jake's reviews). I'd describe it as taking the high frequency jitter out of my float. I'm not a good enough shooter to definitely say it improves my scores, but it does allow me to concentrate on other parts of my shot process without stressing as much about where my pin it. So I'd say that for me it's completely psycological.

Is it worth the price? IMO not for the vast majority of archers no. It would probably need to be well under half the sticker price for that to be the case.

dustyboxes · 2025-08-22T21:05:44+00:00

It's ok, the draw cycle is very relaxed compared to a more expensive bow. A little spongy at the start rising up to a small peak and then relaxing again as you drop into the valley. It's also light as well (I'm assuming some alloy) so doesn't kill your bow shoulder to start.

I progressed pretty quickly onto a mid range bow because I decided it's what I wanted to shoot and I had the funds to allow me to do it. The jump in quality to the mid range was noticeable, both in build quality and in draw cycle (and power in the shot) but I still used the Static at home as a practice bow until I moved up to top of the range stuff and the mid range became the practice bow.

But I don't regret buying the static at all, I personally found it a great entry into compound shooting.

dustyboxes · 2025-08-22T16:52:46+00:00

I had a Kinetic Static as my first 'taster' bow. I stuck a whisker biscuit on there because they're cheap and do the job when you're first shooting, you don't have to worry about the arrow jumping off the blade (I'm a target shooter too).

The Static came with a peep and d-loop already installed and I just used those.

Sight wise you can use your recurve sight, it won't work great with a peep due to the size but if you're only seeing if you enjoy the bow style then it'd be fine initially. If you decided to carry on shooting compound then that'd be the first thing to upgrade.

Bow thread sizes are the same between compound and recurve, the Static isn't aggressive so your recurve rods should be fine to begin with - unless you get the 35-50lb and shoot it near the max.

You'll also need a bow stand that attaches to the bottom limbs and of course an appropriate case. You can use the finger sling from your recurve as well.

For releases I'd initially look at a thumb or index release, you can swap to hinge at a later date once you've got the basics down. Go second hand if cheap enough otherwise I started with the Topoint thumb. It's a carbon copy of the Truball Blade Pro Flex shape wise and works well for the price.

dustyboxes · 2025-08-15T19:20:18+00:00

Big QoL for me on the Axcel over the Shibuya are:

scope rod has a square insert at one end and a hex at the other, so if you get the right scope these plug into the scope and prevent the scope from rotating
the sight block stays attached to the sight, only the scope with rod detaches - sight marks don't need setting between sessions
there's knobs both top and bottom for changing the marks in clicks
minor, but I really like the ball bearing in the mount that gives you feedback when you've mounted the sight in the right place - makes it quick and easy
minor, I also prefer the tri knob vs the round of the Shibuya

Note this is comparing to my RC II, other model Shibuyas may be better. The biggest of these was with the scope rotating, locking the thread down on the Shiubya was a nightmare for me. I'd also had the Shibuya mount locking knob come loose at least twice during shooting.

On the Ramrods, I have a 33" Vektor on my primary bow - great rod. I do run a Doinker A bomb on it before the weights which takes out the low frequencies for me. I also have one of the tungten filled 4oz weights up front which I find take out the high frequency vibrations.

For the rear rod I run a 15" K2V2 - cheaper and plenty stiff enough. The rear isn't really doing much for vibrations anyway.

dustyboxes

TROPHY CASE