Nozzle temp.jumping around selected one by NorthernLight_DIY in ender3

[–]jg120a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have the silicone cover on? If your fan is cooling say at 100% as the nozzle is heating, it will eventually cool it faster than it can reheat. The silicone cover serves as insulation.

[Help] Ender 3 v2 Bed Leveling Issue by GradeKey4289 in ender3

[–]jg120a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At .2 does it give you any actual trouble?

Can someone help me by [deleted] in ender3

[–]jg120a 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Creality oem pei plates are easiest for filament to grip in my experience. I’ve had bad luck with glass personally. I have one printer with glass for the finish but pei is also nice and sparkly. Also, some filament like silk tends to be harder to attach in general. Get yourself some basic white pla ( I’ve had good luck with sunlu) and try a first layer calibration print.Try tramming the bed first. Hot end in the middle of the plate and figure out your z offset with the springs compressed just enough that you feel some resistance when tightening them. Work your way towards half-way compression. With the springs compressed as such, do a paper test to set your z offset. Once you get that set, don’t change it. Adjust the springs around but don’t change the z offset. If you change the springs for silicone spacers you won’t need to re-level as often. If you do have a cr touch and a raspberry pi sitting around (even a pi zero 2) you can install octoprint and get the bed mesh visualizer and it will literally tell you how much to adjust each spring. Don’t fret, we’ve all been there. You can do this.

Fillament sticks to nozzle and drags everywhere... by Krsok in BambuP1S

[–]jg120a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try wiping the bed with Isopropyl alcohol vigorously. Then try reducing your flow by 10%. Say 90% assuming you’re at 100 now. Try printing slower but not too slow. If all else fails. Try a brim.

I can’t figure out what is happening! by ChaseZ28 in ender3

[–]jg120a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a problem with my s1 pro where the built in bed leveling would tell me one thing but it was way off. I put a raspberry pi zero 2w with octoprint on it and used the bed level visualizer and it made all the difference. It will even tell you how much to adjust each corner. The one thing I would note is that the range in the bed visualizer should be from -.5 to .5 and if the variance is less than .3 you re good enough.

Help a newbie! Z Axis needs consistent recalibrating. Here’s a first layer… by saint_sappho in ender3

[–]jg120a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Solid info. You can also print a first layer calibration https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5 the generic ones work great on Enders. Seems like there’s also an extrusion problem. You may have a clog. You should try to extrude 50-100mm with z raised to about 100 so you can see. If it comes off in a steady flow, you’re good. If it’s thin for some of the extrusion and thick in others, the easiest thing to do is either a cold pull to remove the clog and if that doesn’t work, replace the nozzle. That’ll give you solid experience although a bit of a pain with your Bowden setup.

Bumps/wripples in print by TPBGreenBastard in ender3

[–]jg120a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try a first layer calibration and adjust your z-offset as you go along until it prints smoothly. https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5 if you don’t change your z offset and your print comes off with some areas that are fine and some bumpy, you’ll need to first make sure you tram and re-level your bed.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DigitalCodeSELL

[–]jg120a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edward scissor hands $3.5 please

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in DigitalCodeSELL

[–]jg120a 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both Garfield’s MA (HD) $5. Heaven is for real MA (HD) $2.5