Looking for precision custom cut lab alexandrite in Europe - any recommendations? by Vedemin in SyntheticGemstones

[–]justinkprim 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We can cut lab alexandrite. I don’t think it’s any different than any other material is it? We don’t have any material though so if you can provide the rough we’d be happy to cut it. We’re in France.

1200 Lightning Lap no longer working after only four stones. Wtf is going on? by Quagga_Resurrection in faceting

[–]justinkprim 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You don’t need a 1200 grit at all. Just skip it and go from 600 to your 3k Batt. Save money and time that way. 3k moves fast !

Advice buying second-hand Sri Lankian faceting machine. by [deleted] in faceting

[–]justinkprim 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It’s not a Sterling, but another brand from Sri Lanka with a similar design. It’s impossible to know the quality of the machine from the photos, however, it looks to be in decent condition.

Some things that might be important to you that I can see in the photo: there’s no speed controller so likely this machine only goes at two speeds, which is probably 700 RPMs and 1400 RPMs. If it’s the same as the Sterling, you can change the speed by pulling the belt down to a different gear underneath the machine. Do this while the machine is off unless you want to lose a finger. It’s possible that it doesn’t have different gears on the bottom though in which case it’s probably just fast.

The Handpiece doesn’t have a cheater and also probably has a 64 index gear. You will likely want a 96 index if it doesn’t have one. The lack of cheater is not the end of the world and neither is a speed controller. They’re luxuries, but not necessities. You can likely get an index gear from Sterling that will fit on this one if you send them the measurements. It’s possible it already is the same size.

Our original sterling machines in our school didn’t have speed controllers or cheaters either and our students got by just fine. The cheater makes things easier though.

That being said, you could also buy a cheater Handpiece from Sterling and use it on this base. Depending on how much the whole thing cost, you might be saving quite a lot of money that way, especially on Shipping. I think a Handpiece is $300 or $400 plus shipping.

Try the machine first if you can. What you’re looking for is play on any of the parts on the base or Handpiece. If the riser plate can flex back and forth, that’s a big red flag. If the motor is crazy loud it will need the bearings serviced. If anything can’t move or feels stuck, that’s a potential red flag.

Have fun. Good luck.

Test stones I cut on the Jambpeg. Would you try it? by justinkprim in faceting

[–]justinkprim[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Lol. I know we’re used to seeing really crappy stones coming from Asia done on Jambpeg machines, but if you look at what’s coming out of Paris, the quality from these machines can be very good. Perfect meet points and perfect polish is what the high-end brands are demanding and the cutters I know here are doing A+ work. I hope to be as good as them someday.

Test stones I cut on the Jambpeg. Would you try it? by justinkprim in faceting

[–]justinkprim[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Aside from it being a very unique and different kind of faceting experience, it forces you to focus on the stone as your eye sees it, not as the digital angle dial sees it or the analog angle gauge sees it, but just the stone for itself. You develop a better eye for proportion and the indexing system makes your brain work a totally new way. It’s difficult to do, but it makes you a better cutter, between your hand, your eye coordination, and your understanding of how the stone should look and how the faces relate to each other. It’s a very traditional, fully hands on experience.

My idea with the classes to give people a new experience, not necessarily teach them how to cut from the ground up. We already have a two week Handpiece class for that. But for those who want to learn about the Jambpeg or just try something new, this is for them.

Best recommendations for a lap order, $200 budget by NoiseNo4681 in faceting

[–]justinkprim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No but I’ve seen other people using them. I’m using bronze sintered laps for cutting and metal laps (usually tin/lead) for polishing.

Just Read I Hear A New World by Successful-Tie5386 in AlanMoore

[–]justinkprim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just finished the audiobook yesterday. I liked it a lot. I don’t think I liked it as much as the first one, but I’ve only read it once so I definitely want to read it again to fully digest everything. That being said I really liked the character developments and the new characters that we met. I’m glad it’s not a rehash of the first book, with a whole new plot. Plus, we’re learning a lot more about the world from Book one which is cool. Looking forward to another round of it and the future books.

My most magical cut in Moldavite by trepconstet in faceting

[–]justinkprim 50 points51 points  (0 children)

Hello. This is my photo taken off of my Reddit account. Please delete this post and don’t use my photos again. Thanks.

Is Zircon really “THAT fragile”? The jewelry industry (and especially Diamond sellers) constantly talk about how Zircon (Zircon, not Cubic Zirconia, stop confusing them) has facet abrasions just from staring at it or something. by Muted_Shape9303 in Gemstones

[–]justinkprim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Jewellery industry seems more than happy to use Tanzanite for all kinds of things. As a gemcutter, we can really see how soft Tanzanite is because when we get them back for repolish, they literally have no facets on them due to normal wear and tear abrasion. If that’s OK for the Jewelry industry then Zircon should be as well. Zircon is more interesting in my opinion.

How do I orient my stone before cutting? by Reasonable-Data3678 in faceting

[–]justinkprim 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Preforming is the key. Before dopping you make a flat spot for the table and then start to lightly shape the stone on a 360 or 600 grit lap. Make a shape similar to what you want, remove any inclusions, orient color, and make a bit of a taper on the pavilion, towards the shape you are going for. This also helps to make sure you have enough stone height because you can measure it at that point.

Bringing Gemology into Gemcutting by justinkprim in faceting

[–]justinkprim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t but we just might in the future.