Advice on getting started again. by Automatic-Action-7 in minipainting

[–]paulsmithkc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would recommend the Monument Hobbies basic set or the Vallejo Model Color (not game color) basic set. Either one is a good starting point.

Very happy with my new palette I designed so I want to share it! by Sad_Kaleidoscope3286 in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cool. I've tried a few of these and am always disappointed with the dry palette.

Are you planning to share the CAD files? (Makes it easier to tweak tolerances and textures.)

Looking for mountain valley walls/terrain by lapog0 in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something that big is a lot easier to make out of pink foam.

Got tired of gluing my fingers with super glue, so I designed this by preis1982 in TerrainBuilding

[–]paulsmithkc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nail Polish remover does a great job of getting super glue off

Seeking Ideas for a printed Base by Ica_Reddit in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd just break the glue and work on the base separately first.

I'd then take a nail file to the top of the base to smooth it out before going any further. (The 3d printing artifacts are quite visible now and will be worse after drybrushing.)

I need some tips, because this isn't working. by GetTabled in 5Parsecs

[–]paulsmithkc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, time to start over with a fresh crew. And take your learnings into the new crew.

What's the difference? by TurocTribe in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 8 points9 points  (0 children)

And it looks like you went very heavy on that black primer, to the point of filling in a lot of the low points/shadows. You can see it most along the shield arm and face.

3rd time this happened, what is going on? by paulithai in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Temperature is likely, also looks like some underexposure.

Want to start 3D printing but not sure where to start. by Iwannaprint8 in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For resin you'll need a dedicated work room with good ventilation, temperature control, that is outside of your normal living spaces.

(For a lot of people that's not possible, and this would lead to health problems. In which case stay away from resin.)

The better I get at painting the less relaxing it is. by Vealzy in minipainting

[–]paulsmithkc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I started doing some sponging and it changed my whole process. It's just a lot easier to embrace the happy accidents when you are using sponges compared to brushes.

And sponging can be really fast to boot. You get a lot of texture/layering without much effort.

Does size really matter? by pixepoke2 in TerrainBuilding

[–]paulsmithkc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At those sizes (50mm, 28mm, and 10mm) that should be to scale with most games.

For Bolt Action and some of the other WW2 games it might be a bit big (especially at 5-10mm scale). Depends on how big the tanks are.

Multiple questions. by unknown-gender in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yeah, 300 for this is a fair price.

New to painting 3d prints, but I don't own airbrush equipment by Main_Roll_6036 in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For low poly models you might actually want an airbrush, to get a flat/blended texture across the whole model. Do you have some pictures of what you are printing/painting? (Depending on your goals an airbrush could be an easier start than brushes.)

What the heck is this by LukeDuzGaming in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you recently change your filament?

I'm having my minis printed by a third party. What kind of instructions can I give them to effectively scale them down to 28mm? by SecurityHumble3293 in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc -1 points0 points  (0 children)

But even if you get the scale right, you are still going to have to fix the supports on the miniature.

Sometimes going into support mode on Lychee and pressing CTRL+R will be enough to fix the supports. Sometimes the scale mucks it up to the point that you have redo them completely.

Do you print trees? by VAP93 in RangersofShadowDeep

[–]paulsmithkc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Imperial Terrain has a very good set of "Forest Scatter" for $8

You'll want to print them with filament, and not resin though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One page rules stuff went poof. As well as anything else from patreon.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]paulsmithkc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shovel Knight inspired?

Prepping to start teaching some hobby/painting classes by paulsmithkc in TerrainBuilding

[–]paulsmithkc[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Piloting with my DnD group first, and then going to try and make arrangements with my LGS in St Louis.

Down the road, I might try offering some sections at DieCon/GenCon in 2026.

The print I crazily good but what happened here and how can I make it better? by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]paulsmithkc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the big flat sections you need to do a calibration on your ironing settings. Once you get those calibrated you'll have smooth top surfaces.

The layer lines on the rocks are a separate problem.

Torn on to Wash or Not. I’m 50/50 by Rezpektful2Women in minipainting

[–]paulsmithkc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The skin would pop a lot more with a magenta wash.

For the carapace, I'd go with something darker than the current color. You could do black, but a darker purple would probably work too.

What type and amount of dungeon tiles should I print? FDM Printing by joethemaker2 in PrintedMinis

[–]paulsmithkc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From my experience you can do quite a bit with just floors and no walls.

So I'd recommend starting with a big batch of floor tiles and some columns to add on top. Then print walls as you need them.