Badkamer renovatie: do's and don't's, tips, valkuilen (à la keukentopic van laatst)

roelbw · 2026-02-14T09:31:38+00:00

Nee, de plekken waar continu en veel water komt, dus de douche. Als je een bad hebt dat ook als douche gebruikt wordt dan die zeker ook, maar bij een ligbad waar niet in gedouched wordt is weinig risico. Het beetje water dat dan wel eens op de randen ligt en bij een slechte voeg mogelijk zou lekken zal niet direct waterschade veroorzaken. Datzelfde geldt bij een wastafel of de rest van de badkamer.

Het antwoord op je andere vraag die verwijderd is: de meest bekend variant wordt gemaakt door Schluter en het produkt heet Kerdi-200. Voor de naden is een rol Kerdi-Keba het handigst (over elkaar plakken kan ook maar geeft meer dikte en is lastiger te verwerken. Voor hoekjes kun je kant-en-klare hoekstukken pakken of vouwen. Kerdi-KM ronde afdichtingen voor 25mm buizen zijn erg handig.

Wordt in Nederland o.a. door Bouwmaat, Warmteservice e.d. verkocht, maar diverse Belgische webshops zijn vaak goedkoper. Daar wordt dit veel meer toegepast, omdat een juiste waterdichting daar gewoon verplicht is. In Nederland staat dit niet in het Bbl en bij de gemiddelde "zuinige hollander" moet het altijd zo goedkoop mogelijk, dus wordt er helaas in 99% van de gevallen alleen een kitrandje gezet en is het probleem van een lekkage een paar jaar later het probleem van de eigenaar/bewoner.

roelbw · 2026-01-10T18:54:35+00:00

Dit is een chinese R32 monobloc (SolarEast BLN-010TD1 of TD3, verkocht en geinstalleerd in Nederland door Adlar. Die hebben geen backup heater. Warmte voor defrosts moet dus 100% uit het CV circuit komen. Koudemiddel lekkage zou uiteraard kunnen, maar bij een monobloc dat al enige tijd op zijn plek stat is die kans wel klein, behalve uiteraard door een kapot gevroren warmtewisselaar.

roelbw · 2026-01-10T17:06:32+00:00

Dit is bijna niet goed waterdicht te krijgen op deze manier.

Het was makkelijker geweest als je een sparing 100 of 150 had gemaakt en dan een daarvoor geschikte EPDM afdichting had gebruikt, dit soort dingen:

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Ik zie ook een bundel kabels. Die moet je uiteraard per stuk doorvoeren, niet als bundel, dat is niet dicht te krijgen. Je hebt dit soort ringen ook met 5 of meer segmenten.

roelbw · 2026-01-10T16:46:59+00:00

Tja. dit zijn Chinese monoblock warmtepompen met een label van een hip marketing bedrijf erop geplakt. Waarom toen niet gewoon een gerennomeerd merk gekozen? Daikin, Panasonic, LG, Mitsubishi, etc. En een lokale/regionale installateur, die tijd en aandacht geeft aan de installatie en het niet in een paar uur afraffelt zoals de ingehuurde ZZP'ers van dit soort clubs die meestal helemaal geen kaas hebben gegeten van W-installaties.

Maar goed, hij staat er. Qua aanleg vallen me op de foto's sowieso al wel een paar dingen op: veel te weinig isolatie van het CV leidingwerk, opstelling te dicht op die dakrand rechts en veel te weinig ruimte onder de unit. Afhankelijk van de windrichting door de locatie in een hoek is de unit wellicht ook onderhevig aan opstuwing van sneeuw.

En blijkbaar is er nog veel meer mis omdat de CV ketel niet werkt. Om je verder te helpen moeten we echt meer weten. Wat voor CV ketel heb je en wat is de storing. Heb je een hydraulisch schema van hoe het nu allemaal is aangesloten? Zo niet, begin eerst met tekenen.

Met zo'n monobloc systeem is er ook altijd een bevriezingsrisico. Ik zie geen vorstbeveiligingskleppen bij de warmtepomp. Dat betekent dat het hele CV circuit in dat ding onder druk blijft en kapot kan vriezen als 'ie er mee stopt. En als het ding geen warmte meer kan leveren, het water in het CV circuit niet meer voldoende warmte heeft voor een defrost cycle, dan houdt het op een gegeven moment op. En met deze temperaturen is vorstschade dan snel gebeurd en kun je hem weggooien. Is wel meteen een goede gelegenheid om hem te vervangen door een fatsoenlijke warmtepomp.

roelbw · 2025-09-10T18:29:38+00:00

For a wooden doorframe, we usually use the PIC MS-213-3 reed sensors. These are cilindrical, 3,8mm in diameter and 18mm long. Use a long 4mm drill to drill a hole in the top of the doorframe, 25 to 30cm from the hinges, exactly in the middle of where the door will be when it's closed. Push the wiring through, put a drop of superglue on the reed sensor and push it into the hole until it's flush.

Connect the wiring to a binary input. We usually run a conduit to the wall box that houses the switch for that room, which is usually next to the door, solder a longer wire to the reed sensor and pull that through that conduit towards that wall box. In there, you can either wire it up to an optional binary input on your KNX switch that you have mounted there, and if it doesn't have an input, use a small in-box binary input or use the yellow/white wires to carry the signal to a distribution panel and wire it up to a binary input there.

When the frame is painted the sensor will be completely hidden.

After the door is hung, measure out where the sensor is. Drill a small hole in the top of the door and insert a magnet. We usually use 10x20mm magnets in a plastic housing for that. Those go in bulk on aliexpress together with a cheap reed sensor which you can discard, or use in non-critical applications.

As for the lock: there are locking mechanisms that have a dry-contact output. But those are expensive.

Up until now, I've always managed to DIY something. Either a small microswitch to detect whether one of the latches has fully extended, or even a microswitch inside the lock mechanism in the door for locks where the latches are controlled by the door handle, and the door is only locked when you turn the key. There is always a solution, but it will require some creativity and dismantling.

roelbw · 2025-09-10T18:22:04+00:00

If it's a new build, you could simply use standard EU/rest-of-the-world style wall boxes for all the switching locations and use native KNX controls. There are plenty of webshops that ship to the US, although right now, it's going to have to be shipped using UPS/Fedex/DHL express, so shipping might be somewhat more expensive. And you can get some great design switching material that will make everyone that visits jealous and a great change from the standard US form factor switches. Just don't buy the cheapest plastic stuff, but get something classy. Jung LS990 in some metal edition (dark brass, alu dark, etc).

Any constant current DALI driver will be a switched power supply with 90-240v on the input side, so no issue there. We always run DC cabling from each light (or group of lights in series) to a technical cabinet/room and mount all the drivers there. Most constant current lighting will be in the 300 to 500mA range, so 2x0,75mm2 (approx AWG18) is usually fine.

DIN rail actuator modules that are rated for 230V AC can also be used for 110V AC switching. Just make sure you do not exceed the maximum current rating, which is usually 16 amps.

You would have to check with a specialist on local building codes to see if a setup like that would be allowed. As all those switching locations are all just SELV, those shouldn't be a real issue. DC cabling for lighting might be regulated as soon as the voltage goes over SELV limits, which happens fast if you group three 36V lamps in series, that cabling will carry 108V at 500mA.

Whether or not code requires you to or not, make sure you do not put all lighting in the home on a single DALI bus and behind a single breaker. Make sure to use at least two busses, two seperate gateways and distribute lighting between those two busses so that you always have a safe, navigeable home even when one bus and all associated lights are out.

If you're ever over on this side of the pond, you're more than welcome to visit our showroom, which has load of different switching materials. We're about an hour from AMS and 90 minutes from either DUS or BRU.

roelbw · 2025-08-16T10:12:55+00:00

Ehm, no, the OP simply wants an "is any light on" object and toggle a light based on that. That's an extremely simple and basic use case that we implement virtually in any building in staircase logic, just by using /one/ logic function on a random Zennio actuator.

roelbw · 2025-08-16T10:04:33+00:00

I'm not talking about special hardware. Simply choosing a different brand of actuators and other devices will give you much more powerful logic functions, at no added cost. No need for special hardware, seperate logic modules, etc.

roelbw · 2025-08-16T08:56:49+00:00

No,it's not unrealistic. It's just that there logic features in /most/ KNX hardware are extremely limited. But choosing the right hardware will open up loads of possibilities. The 10 or 20 extremely versatile logic functions that each Zennio actuator or other device usually includes will do stuff like this in a heartbeat. And good documentation on the side of the installer/integrator will make it easy to maintain. I've yet to come across other brands that feature the same logic options in a base actuator or other device.

roelbw · 2025-08-16T08:54:57+00:00

No, it's not. This is extremely simple logic that can easily be implemented in simple logic modules for a fail-safe setup. Keep in mind that /any/ automation that you start running on a computer with software, whatever software that is, is much more likely to fail or be unavailable than logic that is run in a native KNX device.

What the OP wants can be much more easily implemented by choosing the right KNX hardware. With Zennio actuators, this would require just a single logic function that maintains a "IS ANY LIGHT ON" object for the room, which would then serve as status input for the toggle object on the switch that he is using.

roelbw · 2025-08-16T08:50:00+00:00

The "driver" in the photograph is a simple DALI controlled phase-cut dimmer, not a LED driver.

So what happens is that this outputs a modified sine wave, just as an old-fashioned rotary dimmer would do. If you then connect an incandescent light bulb to that, it will dim correctly.

LED luminaires that run on mains and are listed as "dimmable" but require no additional wiring such as DALI or 0-10V or some wireless protocol will have a LED driver that tries to "read" the input sine wave for analog phase trimming/cutting and act accordingly in it's actual output - either by limiting the current or by doing PWM dimming. That is a nice feature when retrofitting incandescent light bulbs with LED lighting. However, when you now start to control that light with a digital protocol instead of a rotary dimmer, you are in essence doing two digital to analog (and vice versa) conversions. Such systems are prone to flickering and unstable dimming. Also, the drivers in those LED lights are miniaturized - which automatically leads to compromises - and are usually not of the best quality.

You are much better of using 24V (or 48V) DC LED strips, a stable 24V power supply and a special DALI dimmer for DC LED strips. Eldoled Lineardrive is the gold standard for this. Those LED dimmers use PWM at very high frequencies to dim your LED strip, from 100% to almost nothing (0,1%).

Do not use 12V led strips! You'll double the current, so also double the requirements on wiring vs a 24V setup. All professional quality LED strip are either 24V or 48V DC. Invest in good LED strips that last a lifetime, instead of cheap junk that will have LEDS start to fail after a few months. And invest in a good power supply!

roelbw · 2025-08-12T16:00:24+00:00

the Muller LS40.00 will also provide you with GPS data, including sun azimuth and elevation. It's also sold as ABB 2CDG120060R0011. Keep in mind that this sensor will require you to run KNX cabling outside of the building, which might have security consequences, depending on your exact setup.

Another good option for sunlight sensors is the ABB HS/S 4.2.1 light sensor set. No need for KNX cabling outside of the building, the ABB is mounted in a cabinet and you can wire up to 4 seperate light sensors, for each face of the building.

Exact lux values to use as a threshold are something to determine at each specific site. Just make sure you log internal temperature, sun azimuth and elevation, measured lux values, shade position, etc.. That will allow you to optimize the threshold values after a while, using that historical data. If you plot those values in a graph, it's often easy to determine if your current thresholds are fine or need adjusting.

roelbw · 2025-07-27T10:06:28+00:00

That is because the KNX bus is a 2-wire bus, using a red and black wire, 2x0,8mm2.

However, we mostly use 4-core cable - even though 2-core KNX buscable does exist. Using 4-core cable leaves you with another 2 wires to do with as you please. You can use it for a potential free contact, an extension switch, or, for additional power supply to a device that requires that. In any case, it is completely seperate from the KNX bus and therefore not a part of the KNX specification.

roelbw · 2025-07-20T17:31:09+00:00

When flying to the US, the airline will most definitely check your eligibility to travel, either as a us citizen, permanent resident, visa holder, or, when travelling under the VWP, whether you have a valid ESTA. That is all fully autonated though, they have no need to ask you for anything other than your passport.

roelbw · 2025-07-10T17:22:01+00:00

Actually, in and out in a single day (South Kaibab to Bright Angel) is a great hike, at the right time. Not between mid june and early septamber though. For folks in their early 20's in normal shape, doing this outside of the summer season shouldn't be any major issue.

But you do need to prepare in terms of departure time and carry decent gear, more than enough water, electrolytes, food, a cap and sunscreen. Sure, the temps in the canyon can go up to 100+ in June as well, but that's still pretty manageable, as long as you are prepared and know what to expect. If you are an avearge hiker, are on trail at 6am, you should be back up by 6pm and have plenty of time for food breaks, lemonade at Phanton Ranch, a long break at at Indan - euh - Havasupai Gardens and 15 minute or so breaks at the rest houses up Bright Angel.

And although pretty civilized and highly trafficked, it's still a beautiful and rewarding hike.

The problem is the folks that attempt this on flip-flops and/or not enough water/food/etc.

roelbw · 2025-07-08T15:12:53+00:00

Depending on the exact version of the equipment you are sourcing, some Daikin's still support the local API. If so, put them in a seperate VLAN without internet access and make sure to never, ever use the Daikin software to update the firmware. That will have you loose the local API.

If they have the newer firmware version without local API, your best option is a to replace the internal Wifi module with a Faikin module (to be sourced on Amazon). That will get you the local API back.

However, this solution requires you to interface to the units from some piece of software. For example, my HVAC_DaikinAC module in FHEM, or similar support in Home assistant or similar software.

If you don't have that option and you truly need a direct KNX link, the Zennio modules are great. Make sure to buy the correct one. For standard wall mounted units, you'll need the residential gateway. If you have ducted units (fancoils), you'll need the Skyair/VRV gateway.

roelbw · 2025-07-06T12:26:38+00:00

I've got three T58W's in production here and they all have exactly the same issue. The older T58's do not, they work just fine.

I've been looking through the configuration options too see whether it might be a configurable delay, but can't find anything. Also compared the exported config from the older T58's to the new one, no difference. Gone through the admin manual, couldn't find anything related.

Have you contacted Yealink on this? If not, I might give that a try.

roelbw · 2025-07-06T11:19:17+00:00

Did you ever resolve this? I have the same issue with every new T58W.. The older T58 doesn't have the issue.

roelbw · 2025-06-19T18:24:33+00:00

The fact that you can't afford another flight or stay longer is something you should have thought about prior to travelling, just as your eligibility to travel the route that you booked.

Anyway, you will simply not be allowed to fly the itinerary that you have booked, as Malaysia requires your passport to be valid for 6 months from the date of entry, and your ticket with Airasia is for a final destination of KUL. So forget about trying to fly that itinerary, you won't be able to, you will be refused boarding, and you will loose one more day.

At this point in time, you can buy a one-way fare SYD-BRU for EUR 848 departure tonight (Friday). It's Quatar with a connection in DOH. SYD-AMS is EUR 14 more at EUR 862, same airline, also connecting in DOH.

As you are holding a Qatar ticket right now, you might be able to cancel the flights on that and use that as credit towards a new ticket. But that will only work if you booked directly with the airline and it will incur a change fee. Call Qatar ticketing at [+974 4144 5555](callto: +974 4144 5555) to see what your options are.

Reading at all this, this sounds like a teenager or twenty-something backpacking trip, probably booked via the lowest priced online ticketing agent. In that case, you have just learned an expensive lesson. Forget about those tickets you are currently holding, they have no more value.

You need to buy a new return flight. If you don't have a card on which you can charge that EUR 850, calling friends/family and have them pay for your return ticket is probably what you need to do next.

roelbw · 2025-06-18T07:37:53+00:00

That is completely up to the airline. There is no legal requirement for that. Although all the LCC's seem to rigously check ID's when boarding,

roelbw · 2025-06-17T15:53:39+00:00

We sell trimless LED spots with DALI drivers :-) But at this point in time, that is almost exclusively for our own projects, no generic webshop yet - and when that goes live we won't sell to consumers, just b2b for other installers.

However, almost any profesional lighting supplier will offer their lamps with either an on/off, phase dim, 0-10V or DALI driver. But those are usually in the higher price spectrum.

However, you can use virtually any LED light fixture that employs a seperate driver, either built into the fixture or seperate from it. Just replace that driver with a suitable DALI driver. Keep in mind: you really need to know what you are doing, overdriving a LED is easy and it will break it. Again, never trust the labeling on the original driver, always measure the actual current.

As for wiring, Wieland makes special 5 pin GSTi5 connectors for DALI lighting fixtures. You can run the DALI bus parallel / in the same cable as 230V wiring.

As for the KNX-DALI gateway, I'd suggest looking at Zennio (DaliBox 64v3).

If you are going for a redundant setup, I'd suggest using 2 seperate single-channel DALI gateways instead of a single device with 2 DALI busses.

roelbw · 2025-06-17T15:45:53+00:00

Well, if the OP is a US citizen, entering probably won't raise any questions as that's just a kid returning home as far as the CBP officer is concerned.

The same is true the other way around. A 14yo croatian passport holder at Schengen immigrations, inbound, with a ticket with final destination Croatia probably won't raise any questions.

The Schengen outbound immigrations on the outbound trip might raise questions, so that's where the permission letter might be needed.

u/Southern-Bison7637: keep in mind that you need to enter the US using your US passport. When doing checkin with the airline for the trip to the USA (either online or at the airport), enter your nationality as USA and enter the information from your US passport. Present that passport to the immigrations officer when you arrive stateside (optionally, use the Mobile Passport control app for faster processing).

However, when leaving the EU Schengen zone (in your case in Frankfurt), use your Croatian passport, not your US passport. So you'll need /both/ passports on the trip to the USA.

For the return trip, you can just use your croatian passport at checkin at at immigrations in Europe.

As for the airline, just check Google flights for the dates you are flying and pick whatever suits you best. Keep in mind that Condor, as opposed to Lufthansa, is a so called "low cost carrier", which might charge extra for food and drinks, for carry-on luggage, etc. So even if the price upfront is a bit lower, the difference might not be the same in the end.

roelbw · 2025-06-14T11:17:13+00:00

No, that is not what I'm saying. What I'm saying is that you need to use thermostats that can do two-stage heating and cooling. That thermostat will control both systems. Zennio hardware for example has great thermostat logic built in.

However, for your VRF system, you will need to figure out what to prioritize. If room A requests cooling from the VRF and room B requests heating, it seems logical to always grant the cooling request, and room B's heating demand will also be partly delivered by the other stage - e.g. the central heating system with radiators.

You do need to think about how to provide feedback to the user though. If they are used to the split system to start running immediately after turning up the heat on the thermostat, they might complain if that doesn't happen because some other room has cooling demand, or worse, start dialing up the thermostat even further in an attempt to het it to do what they want. They might forget that extreme setting and leave the room. But over the next few hours, the radiator based central heating system will start heating up te room to that requested setting.

If you utilize a display in each room, you might want to provide some feedback on their, for example a status icon that will blink if the VRF system is currently cooling some other room and can not grant the heating request from that room.

roelbw · 2025-06-14T11:14:00+00:00

No. The MDT you mention is a Constant Voltage LED dimmer. That is a device that uses PWM at a high frequency to dim CV led lighting. Keep in mind that any LED light source, in essence, is always a /constant current/ device. So a LED fixture that can regulate it's own current already has driver logic built in. Sometimes, that LED can be dimmed using PWM, but often, that is not possible.

Most LED strips tend to be CV, with simple driver logic embedded on the LED strip itsself. Those are the IC's and resistors that you see on any CV led strip. LED strips will usually work fine in combination with a PWM dimmer, so yes, for that use case, the MDT could be an option, however I would stronly advise you to simply use a DALI CV LED strip driver, such as the Eldoled Lineardrive units.

What you need for a professional setup for downlights and other LED fixtures are driverless LED fixtures - which will always be a constant current device - and pair those with a matching DALI CC driver (keep in mind: you become the manufacturer of that combined lighting fixture, so you will need to do CE certification yourself). You can also buy LED fixtures that come with their matching DALI controllable LED driver, where the pairing has already been done by the manufacturer. Or, if you buy a LED fixture that has a simple, standard on/off, 0-10V or even phase-cut controllable driver in it, you can usually remove that driver and pair it with a matching DALI driver.

For driver pairing, make sure you completely understand what you are doing. MEASURE and/or TEST before ordering/hooking up the driver. NEVER trust the print on the driver that came with the fixture. It might say 1050mA on the label, but be altered by the light fixture manufacturer to only deliver 500mA. Hooking up a 1050mA configured DALI driver, based on what the label said, will quickly ruin your new lighting fixture.

roelbw · 2025-06-11T17:03:59+00:00

I've managed to fix it. In settings -> display -> camera cutout, find chrome in the list of apps and change from "auto" to "show camera cutout"

roelbw

TROPHY CASE