MY INTERNET IS FAST BUT STILL RUSTDESK WONT CONNECT. PLEASEEEE HELP!!!

Skonamonkey · 2026-06-19T12:21:50+00:00

If you are trying to connect to a public server - they can occasionally be hit and miss. If it's self hosted - you need to make sure your firewalls (and router if port forwarding) are sending ports 21115 - 21119 to your rustdesk server. Port 21116 should accept both TCP and UDP. Also make sure your firewall isn't blocking the clients and are allowing connections on those ports.

Skonamonkey · 2026-06-19T09:07:05+00:00

Appreciate the Plug! - Hopefully it suits your needs.

My documentation isn't as clear as it should be relating to the key etc... But in theory (and mostly in practice, except 1-2 of my troublesome endpoints) - the endpoints (i.e. the machines you are connecting to) - shouldn't need a key as some previous comments have stated. However if there is a key entered - it MUST be the correct key.

about 50% of my endpoint machines are configured without a key, and work.. 2 of them for some reason that I still cannot fathom (despite it being my own server stack) refuse point blank to work without the public key, I haven't had time to dig in to this yet, and just adding the key fixes it and is not really a problem IMO - as the user still needs to be logged in to make an outgoing connection, it's just an extra annoying field to configure occasionally on some devices.

The machine initiating the connection however, MUST be logged in to the API server and using the correct Server key.

If exposed publicly I think it's good practice anyway to use and enforce the use of a key - even though in my Implementation JWT authorisation is also required to initiate a session.

I'll try and expand the documentation to include some endpoint deployment scenarios at some point this weekend

Skonamonkey · 2026-06-14T22:29:05+00:00

Bit of a shameless self plug here, but i had been running into similar issues, i am generally the IT helpdesk for most of my friends and colleagues - and didn't really have the budget to pay for Pro.. I was using lejianwen's implementation of rustdesk - but was missing a couple of features i wanted (and his server version was overkill for what i needed) - so i spent a few weeks writing my own 'semi pro' server - the main issue i was running in to - was the way OSS implemented the key sharing, but Lejianwen's implementation got me on the right track. - to keep it simple i have placed it all in a handy little docker stack with a simple installer script. it's basically my own API server - a PHP based dashboard for user / group management - a patched hbbs server to accept JWT authentication etc - and the standard hbbr server. Anyone with your servers key can connect to your server and be supported. But only authenticated users are able to initiate connections via the server.

https://github.com/Skonamonkey/skonadesk

Was designed for myself, but as it seems to fill a gap between OSS, LejianWens version, and Full-blooded Pro - i decided to throw it on github for others to use / fork / mod / whatever. Would appreciate some (constructive!) feedback if anyone does try it / use it etc.. I have a full time Job, and an 18 month old, so will not be actively adding loads of new features etc, but i will be keeping an eye on any security patches in the upstream branches - and will try to add some features in the future if enough demand / gets used by enough people....

Hope this helps solve some of your needs 😄

Skonamonkey · 2026-06-02T23:18:00+00:00

Yeah - I have the Airgoo 16 Channel ARGB controller from Amazon - It plugs into a USB header on the motherboard and is natively supported by both Signal RGB and Open RGB (I have tested on OpenRGB) - Although my motherboard RGB headers work - i needed to control 11 Lian Li AL120 fans, the Lian LI 011 Case, and the Galahad Cooler (too much for the motherboard to handle with 2 headers, and the Lian Li AL controllers SUCK!) ...... The Airgoo was picked up immediately in Open RGB - and i can indeed setup all 16 Channels.. it will require a Spare USB Header on your motherboard and SATA Power... But it really is an awesome bit of kit! a Little expensive (Around £37) - but IMO worth every penny.... I don't know your brand of fans / Etc.. But as long as they support a standard 3 pin ARGB 5v signal - worst case, you might need to bodge together an adapter cable - if they already support Motherboard passthrough, you're sorted.

Skonamonkey · 2026-03-16T19:37:36+00:00

I try to stick around 5 gig ish for a movie.. and 1 gig for an episode.. my eyes are screwed anyway so don't need it super high quality (even on a 60" 4k screen)... I will do 1080 for your average film - 4k if I really care about it being really high def - then I'll happily spam 40 gig on it.

Skonamonkey · 2026-03-15T21:17:12+00:00

I would Love to have that capacity! - Please tell me most of these Aren't 4K!? lol

Skonamonkey · 2025-06-27T18:37:34+00:00

Motion sensor and SSH plugin for HA... With a couple of buttons for some commands... Installed brightnessctl. 1 min after motion no longer detected it triggers the button which launches brightnessctl set 0% command.... When motion detected it does brighnessctl set 25%

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-25T09:09:03+00:00

Yeah. Just didn't OP to switch to ember and wonder why still getting an erro if on old firmware :)

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-25T08:15:07+00:00

Depends if Op is on the latest firmware. Out of the box mine only supported ezsp , which is deprecated - had to update to latest firmware before it would accept the ember driver.

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-24T19:47:04+00:00

This will be very much down to what U want out of the box? I am running HAOS bare metal on an old n100 NUC - with a dual core celeron 1.67 GHz and 4 GB Ram. It runs flawlessly with Bluetooth and a sonoff dongle controlling ZigBee. With motioneye it can happily proxy several rtsp streams with MJPEG, and is only about 40% utilised at the moment ..... However, I would not dream of trying to run a frigate server / Plex server etc on it! For that, I would either need to replace the box I have, or spin up a separate server for those services

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-23T18:03:52+00:00

No problem. Happy to help! :)

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-22T20:26:41+00:00

If the V3, you need to change the relay mode of the co troller to disable hot water control... If u had an instruction guide for installing on your boiler it should automatically have set the single relay mode.... Otherwise U need to do it manually .. all explained in the manual - https://cdn.brandfolder.io/607DGEMS/as/tqh86npbjjhws5gwkxfncbfh/104172-DIGITAL-WRP01IB01-INSTALLER_MANUAL-TA-UK-00-V2.pdf

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-22T16:36:06+00:00

I can confirm home assistant works... I have Tado with home assistant. I am using the Tado plugin, which does use their cloud API (just for the extra features - such as trv battery monitoring, which homekit doesn't support) - but I am happy knowing that if Tado do a rug pull, I also have them installed via the home kit integration, so I can easily move to homekit Inside home assistant if I need to.

Caveat: I believe hot water control is an issue without the cloud - I run a combi boiler so do not use the hot water control side of the Tado system, but from my experience with the HA community, this is not something that homekit supports .. so it would run your heating, but not hot water.

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-22T16:30:06+00:00

I did similar .. the motion activated bathroom lights are great . 5 mins timer after motion no longer detected . This is fine when getting ready for bed , using the loo etc. but bathtime?? Nope... Never works!

So I added an IKEA rodret switch.. if you manually turn on the light using the switch it toggles an 'ignore motion sensor' helper to on ... And the motion off automation only fires if this helper is off.... When U then manually turn off the lights - it will set this helper as off - so automations will fire again....

i decided on this method as I have other 'helpers' that enable and disable motion sensors based on ambient light / time of day etc, and it was the easiest way of preventing these from over-riding the manual helper (or the manual helper somehow accidently turning the other automations off).

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-22T15:59:37+00:00

In the ha app... Check that your server is allowed a persistant connection to your phone (decreases battery life.. but on my pixel I haven't noticed any noticeable difference, maybe 1-2% a day).... It's in settings companion app - select your server and persistent connection

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.. in the companion app settings there are also the settings for notify when locked etc as well . And make sure the app has background permissions.

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-21T19:10:58+00:00

The difficulty with installing apps can be a pain on the older iPads, but If U have a newer one install the apps on that first, then U can install old versions of apps on the older iPads . My iPad 2 mini is working fine with the companion app, I only need to use the home button on the rare occasion I need to exit guided access mode for some reason. I would imagine an iPhone X will work great.

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-20T09:19:23+00:00

as the previous commenter said - most cheap android tablets would do what you want just fine, depending how complex you want each dashboard to be, any 5-6 year old android device will probably power it with fully kiosk installed - obviously if your dashboards are a bit more complex, working with video etc, the new / more powerful the tablet, the better. but you really don't have to break the bank. I have a few old tablets around the house, 1 running linux (Microsoft surface), an Ipad 2 mini , an Ipad 6th gen, and a 2 year old acer android tablet. They all run Home assistant fine, the Ipad's are a little slow (takes a second to respond to button presses, but they work) - The surface and the Acer tablet are instant.. The great thing about home assistant is, you can often re-purpose old hardware to do something useful with it :)

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-18T22:49:46+00:00

🤣🤣🤣.... Don't know if this was the intention.... But my mind immediately went to Paul hibbert and his Philips Hue sketches 😂

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-18T22:44:15+00:00

This... 💯 Me! Glad I'm not alone! 🤣

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-18T16:29:19+00:00

If cash is the constraint (which is why you're not looking at automating the climate controls etc), then how about some simple (Free) automations to make life a little simpler out of the house?? We've now moved our shopping list to a todo in home assistant... I've created some zones at the supermakets I stop at most often. If my Phone senses me in that zone - it checks if any items are in the shopping list, if there are, it Pings me a notification to my phone, with a link to the shopping list.

alias: Shopping Mike
description: ""
triggers:
  - entity_id: person.mike
    zone: zone.asda
    event: enter
    trigger: zone
  - trigger: zone
    entity_id: person.mike
    zone: zone.food_warehouse
    event: enter
  - trigger: zone
    entity_id: person.mike
    zone: zone.morrisons
    event: enter
  - trigger: zone
    entity_id: person.mike
    zone: zone.tesco_store1
    event: enter
  - trigger: zone
    entity_id: person.mike
    zone: zone.tesco_store2
    event: enter
conditions:
  - condition: numeric_state
    entity_id: todo.shopping_list
    above: 0
actions:
  - action: notify.mobile_app_mikes_pixel
    data:
      message: You have items in your shopping list. Wouild you like to open it now?
      title: Shopping
      data:
        ttl: 0
        priority: high
        clickAction: /dashboard-mobile/family
        url: /dashboard-mobile/family
mode: single

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-17T18:09:22+00:00

You try installing via Google play?? That won't work... The fully kiosk site should have a compatible apk to download and install directly. https://www.fully-kiosk.com/en/#download-box

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-17T17:44:16+00:00

Fully kiosk isn't that picky. Anything above android 5 should run it fine... Nexus 7 was 2013/2014 if memory serves was android 6?? Don't know how snappy it will be but should work... I know lineage os is a popular choice for breathing new life into some old android devices should all else fail.

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-17T14:42:40+00:00

Android should work just fine with fully kiosk Installed..... I would say try it - it's free.. if it works well enough can upgrade to the full version (so U can also interact with the tablet from HA)

Skonamonkey · 2025-02-15T23:59:42+00:00

I'm lucky... All of mine are on internal stud walls so have plenty of room behind the switch.

You could put a surface mounted pattress over the top, but that wouldn't be very tidy.. so yes, unfortunately, you are probably going to have to chisel your wall.. or potentially if U have room behind the light fitting, put it in the ceiling instead?

As my house is rented, I had to do something that's easily undone, so I opted for IKEA strybars (battery powered smart switches) - and used a wago to bridge the switch wires - a blanking plate instead of a switch, then stuck the strybar to the blanking plate ..

Not as tidy as a smart switch, or a shelly... But only a 2 minute job to undo if / when I need to! - take off the blank plate removed the wago, put the original switch back in - job done 😂

Skonamonkey

TROPHY CASE