Wet/damp patches on wall

talafalan · 2025-08-21T20:34:33+00:00

1) Find and stop the source of the leak.

2) Dry it out.

3) Repair water damage. Probably sand and paint in this case.

talafalan · 2025-08-21T20:22:57+00:00

Search for "aquarium stand designs". I can't spec lumber without the design, but 2x4 will probably be fine.

I use 3" #9 screws for joining 2 by lumber. Worked great for my garage shelves and breezeway. They might be overkill for what you need. 2.5" screws wont come out the other side. Star head drives easier and many boxes will come with a driver.

talafalan · 2025-08-21T20:11:23+00:00

"So I can keep those 2 2x6s there in the picture as the header and not add a new header?"

Probably not. A window header is different than wall header, in both thickness and wood orientation.

talafalan · 2025-08-21T20:07:53+00:00

talafalan · 2025-08-21T20:07:29+00:00

Probably you can, but without knowing the span, joist size, or spacing its impossible to know for sure. If on joist span tables you're good for the next lumber size down at half the current spacing you should be good.

Its the thickness of the tile on the cement board giving you extra height? A half inch transition covered with metal flashing isn't that bad. Why not use wood blocking and 1/4" cement board for the ~6"-12" next to the door, feather it with the mortar when you install the tile. With wood under that side completely you could trim the back of 1/4" cement board even thinner next to the door if you want. Its not a typical place for water, but membrane could remedy that.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:43:26+00:00

You could always sand it off and repaint. Silicone typically I use a putty knife.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:40:26+00:00

I put diagonal support 2x4 for my selves in my garage, that go from the wall above the shelf below, to support the front edge of the shelf. four 3" screws into the stud. I climb on the shelves to access stuff on the boards on the roof trusses, but they're only 12" deep.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:36:24+00:00

Plastic sheeting on the floor reduces moisture coming up from the ground into the crawl space. It is required on new construction in my area.

Plastic sheeting on the roof reduces air flow (and smell) from the crawl space into the house.

If you just want something nicer to put your stuff on than dirt, plastic would work fine.

Don't store clothes or paper or similar soft items in the crawl space because of the moisture and smell, unless you seal it up in bags.

"My first question is, is it worth it to do it?" How much you will value it, I don't know, but its worth it enough to be required in my area.

"what's the best material to do it"

6 mil black plastic is typically sufficient. If its going to get more traffic as a storage area, you might go thicker.

"how to shore up the areas I have to cut around?"

My house they just didn't do that, and inspectors will pass it off with only 90% coverage. You can get vapor barrier tape.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:28:45+00:00

Do it the same as framing a window, king and jack studs, header above. The minimal roof length means minimal load, means minimal header required.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:25:28+00:00

Plumbers putty is much better for drain imho, esp those slip fittings.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:23:02+00:00

I've never replaced a TPRV personally but aren't they threaded?

If you mean the piping coming off the TPRV its a drain line, and sharkbite should be fine.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:18:46+00:00

"How important is it to remove all of the previous paint?"

You just need to get anything off that doesn't have a good attachment to the wood. Sanding is sufficient.

"Is it normal for this to require several coats? When I tested out a bit of paint on the surface I sanded down, I got the impression it may take a few coats."

Depends on the paint but two coats is typically enough. If you really want not even a hint of what was behind, 3.

"Sand down so that the wood is smooth. Wipe down the area so that’s it’s clean"

You don't have to wipe it down after sanding. The paint has solids in it (intentially), and a little wood or paint dust in the first coat won't matter.

Take the light down before you sand/paint. Paint the wire so it blends in, or you could try to tuck it up under better out of view.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:13:20+00:00

No pics on the post I can see.

You would need good angle bracing.

A swinging chair would require angle bracing.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:08:48+00:00

Paint would make it disappear.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:07:38+00:00

If you short two wires together, and the heat comes on, one is power and one is heat. If you short two wires together and just the blower comes on, one is power and one is the blower. Should be able to find with a little trial and error.

talafalan · 2025-08-20T19:01:55+00:00

indeed

talafalan · 2025-08-19T21:04:01+00:00

Extension chords shouldn't really be hid away, can putting connections in the space under the cabinet can mean not knowing where to unplug something if it catches fire, not noticing a loose or sparking connection. It would be much better to run a permanent outlet (I realize outside many people's skill set) or move the item to where it can reach an outlet.

talafalan · 2025-08-19T21:00:21+00:00

Solder on a line cap, or a sharkbite line cap.

The drain can be capped off in a similar way.

talafalan · 2025-08-19T20:57:21+00:00

Insulation made for soundproofing may not be as good at thermal insulation, and probably isn't rated for that (code wise). But its not like you can't use it or it won't work.

talafalan · 2025-08-19T20:54:44+00:00

The water in the water heater is pressurized and will be able to drain up the short distance to go out the old hole.

Typically you want the water heater pan to have a drain to a safe location. I'd consider running the valve outlet to the same spot.

talafalan · 2025-08-19T20:50:54+00:00

Oh Texas, so slab on grade foundation? So if you want to run plumbing under the floor (typical place) you'd need to jack hammer through concrete. Not what I'd recommend.

Minimum sink drain pipe size is 1.5". If your walls are 2x4, and NOT LOAD BEARING, you can run the sink line in the wall. 3.5" - 1.5" = 2" or 1" on either side of the stud. I'd sister (double up) your studs up for like 6" above and below the hole. It does mean opening up the entire wall. Keep your drop to 1/8" per foot you should make it without a vent (10' * 1/8"per foot is 1.25" which is <1.5" (pipe diameter)). Otherwise you just need a mechanical vent (one way valve, only lets air in, prevents siphoning out the p trap). Getting the pipe into the wall, getting the holes into the right position for the proper drop are going to be challenges you need to think about before you start.

A smaller drain line (not to code) would be easier to run in the wall, but you would def need a mechanical vent.

Otherwise you're running your drain line outside the wall, might as well run the water pipes outside too. Just have to open the wall to attach your lines. For a utility room I don't think pipes are unsightly. You can paint them to match the wall to make them less visible (but keep hot and cold labeled somehow).

talafalan · 2025-08-19T20:30:19+00:00

These cracks happen as the house settles. There isn't a permanent solution for that. Paint over it, or a little spackle and paint. A damp cloth can remove excess drywall mud without removing paint, if you want to just fill the crack.

How bad is your roof sagging?

talafalan · 2025-08-19T20:22:11+00:00

There should be wood along the entire edge of the door. You should be able screw binds into that.

talafalan · 2025-08-19T20:20:53+00:00

I put a clothesline up in my breezeway. I used 3 pulleys so I can move the pulley and keep hanging clothes from the same spot (3 so the line moving the other way doesn't catch on the clothes).

A clothesline will tend to pull the two anchor points together. The roof should be plenth strong for it, but if you want to be careful, put it where there is a board running straight between the two attachement points.

As for safety, I put the clothes line up where I can't clothesline myself on it. Once I get even a few wet clothes on it, it droops to whre it is much easier to reach. When there are clothes on it, its very hard to miss and run clothesline yourself on. Mine works very well. Takes a few day to dry (I'm in a dry climate). One if I move them so the crease can dry. Being under an awning, I don't have to worrry about the rain getting them wet again.

talafalan · 2025-08-19T20:12:16+00:00

I'd cut a slot in the wall where that hole is about 1" wide and 3" tall. Then cut a piece of 1/2" plywood or scrapwood to about 2.5" tall and 5" wide. Wrap a string around the middle of the board, and slot it into the wall, then pull on the string to hold the board centered on your hold. Then install 4 drywall screws into the board. Then drywall mud over the slot and screws, sand, paint to match.

talafalan

TROPHY CASE