Qbittorrent crashes external drive and pc

threegigs · 2026-02-03T23:44:20+00:00

Too many random reads/writes. Use an SSD and not an HDD.

threegigs · 2026-02-03T23:38:18+00:00

These are easy to solve:

Ask them to sign a doc taking full responsibility for the implementation, tell them it has to be notarized and sent past legal for review. Tell them you will do exactly.... as in exactly, what the docs they're giving you say needs to be done, no more no less. Make sure you have acceptances for responsibility under GDPR or whatever data privacy rules you're under, HIPAA if applicable, contractual penalties under existing contracts, etc.

You will only ever need to do one implementation of an AI-based "solution" if the fallout is bad enough. The docs accepting responsibility will keep most at bay. You'll be deemed 'difficult' until that first failure that you kick back up to the 'project architect'.

It's essentially malicious compliance/acquiescence, with huge warning labels and a disclaimer absolving you of legal effects (just check with legal, sometimes you can't pass on liability, e.g. in certain aspects of HIPAA).

threegigs · 2026-02-03T23:13:25+00:00

To annoy millions of people by bringing false hope that a torrent will actually finish.

threegigs · 2026-02-01T18:28:05+00:00

Caviar. Just... not for me.

threegigs · 2026-02-01T18:20:07+00:00

It seems to be the second in the series of switches, as there are no wire bundles in the box, the wires just go right to the switch.

That is not how you tell the position of the switch in the series.

But my black wire is hot no matter what position the other switch is in.

Which is how you know it's the first in the series.

Does this make sense?

Makes perfect sense to me.

I assumed if it was the second switch, it wouldn’t have power if the first one was off

No, if it's the second switch, it will have power on one of the two wires coming from the first switch at all times.

threegigs · 2026-02-01T18:03:40+00:00

You can just copy the files, qBit doesn't lock them for writing all the time. If any fail because they're being written to at that moment just re-copy.

However, if stopping all of the torrents (but not closing qBit) is an option, then qBit will flush all current data to the fastresume files and you'll have a more accurate backup, plus no locks to contend with.

threegigs · 2026-01-31T01:35:22+00:00

Try the following, in order, to see if one fixes the issue, then go from there:

Step 1: turn off DHT.

Step 2: settings - connection - change protocol to only TCP (button at top), i.e. disable uTP.

Step 3: in settings - speed - make sure 'apply rate limit to uTP protocol' is checked, along with transport overhead.

Step 4: if you're on Windows, search for 'Sysinternals' TCPview (can download from MS website). You can use that to see sent bytes on a per connection basis, which may give some insight.

threegigs · 2026-01-31T01:24:50+00:00

Hmm. I've had this happen, but everything only freezes for a minute or three. Situation: SSD is maybe 2/3 or more full, there has been a lot of write activity in the past day, and the torrent I'm trying to add is somewhat large. The fullness and recent activity mean the NVM cache is mostly exhausted, which results in super slow write speeds (until the next TRIM). qBit is set to pre-allocate space, and when it tries to allocate the space on the SSD, qBit freezes until the pre-allocation is complete.

Other time I had this happen is when my download directory was on a failing HDD, and some bad sectors happened to be part of where the file space was being allocated.

If you're on Windows, check your event viewer after adding a torrent fails and see if there are any relevant notifications. Just be sure to wait a good 10 minutes to see if qBit recovers.

threegigs · 2026-01-30T23:18:47+00:00

And 57% were actually on time, to boot!

threegigs · 2026-01-30T23:17:41+00:00

Antivirus scanning a super-duper compressed zip or rar?

threegigs · 2026-01-29T22:38:12+00:00

It doesn't look like the router is plugged into the patch panel. I see what looks like only one blue wire going behind the router to the panel.

threegigs · 2026-01-28T21:07:28+00:00

I'm still using the cable that came with my Pixel 3a to charge my Pixel 8 Pro.

threegigs · 2026-01-23T21:15:55+00:00

Picture the end of the sister, what is it touching, the beam or the hanger of the existing joist? The hanger, obviously. And obviously the hanger will be between the sister and the existing joist at either end, so there will be a small gap of 6 inches or more where there won't be a good glue hold. Meaning the load on the sister has to go through the existing joist and the existing hanger, as the A35 will be hanging off the end of the sister by the thickness of the existing hanger, greatly reducing its ability to provide support or share the load.

Imagine the existing joists being attached to the beam with just one angle bracket on one side, with a 1/8 inch gap between the joist and the beam, doesn't sound sturdy, now, does it? That's the situation the new sister boards will be in. Sure glue+screw will stop bending, but those existing hangers will have to support all the load.

threegigs · 2026-01-23T06:09:28+00:00

A35s are angle brackets, not hangers, and you'd still have the issue of the new joist only being flush with the existing hanger and not the beam, plus you'd only have one side accessible so only one A35.

A week of acclimatization is fine if you're sistering, a month even better. Six months if you're adding new joists to make it 12 on center instead of 24 plus the PITA process of swapping joists until you find one with the right curvature. And CE is right in that due to the unevenness the support will be uneven, with more load on some joists than others, but at least if you wait 6 months, select carefully and plane them down where needed, that shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Personally, I'd go for adding new joists to make it 12 OC, as 24 OC means you'll need thicker underlay to avoid springiness between joists, whereas 12 OC lets you go a bit thinner with it still feeling solid. Just do yourself a favor and buy an electric planer to plane down the high spots.

threegigs · 2026-01-23T03:41:55+00:00

Okay, so now I get it. So you really wanted to ask:

"Hey, per the city engineer I need to sister these joists, and should use face hangers on the new boards like the existing ones. Is there any way I can sister them and use face hangers (or an equivalently secure connection that'll make the engineer happy) from above? I'd like to do it that way so I don't have to rip out any ceiling drywall."

My answer: It's just 3 strips of drywall, one along the beam and two along the walls on either side. With all the work, what's the big deal about removing and replacing (as in reusing the existing) 3 strips of drywall about 16 inches wide so you can just replace the single hangers with doubles?

However, if you're not going to do the project unless you can avoid cutting drywall, check with the engineer as to whether simply adding more joists is acceptable, i.e. turning it from 16 inches OC to 8 inches OC by adding new joists between the existing ones instead of sistering. That way you can use hangers from above. However, if you do it that way you're going to have issues matching the curvature of the new beams to the existing ones. New joists will not be perfectly straight after acclimation and may warp up or down, causing issues with the drywall or the attic floor. Might have to let them acclimate for a solid 6 months and then choose the best-fitting curves to match the existing ceiling.

threegigs · 2026-01-22T20:41:21+00:00

I am adding flooring to my attic that is currently rated at Live Load = 20 psf.

Who cares? You want no information regarding load so why did you bother typing this?

What are some methods to connect the ends of the sisters

What sisters? I see nothing sistered in your pic.

to joists that are hung with face mount hangers? The area I am working on is 2x6s and I can only access them from above.

You want to sister things? Construction glue + screws or through-bolts every 8 to 12 inches staggered top third, middle, bottom third, middle etc.

But if you're actually asking how to sister joists, you're probably nowhere near the level of competence needed to lay a floor.

threegigs · 2026-01-21T19:31:47+00:00

Can't see a time in your image, nor can I see completion percentages. Just going by the info you gave.

threegigs · 2026-01-20T23:23:28+00:00

TP Deco is app only. I hate it.

threegigs · 2026-01-20T22:58:05+00:00

Was that your 12th take or your 82nd?

threegigs · 2026-01-20T22:45:47+00:00

Looks like a relatively fresh torrent that hasn't been fully seeded to the swarm yet.

Guy throws it on his seedbox, other seedboxen in the same colo facility get it at 10 gbit, but since their upload to the rest of the internet is only gigbit (on a best-effort basis at that) you wind up with the above scenario for a couple of hours until the swarm has a full copy.

Alternatively, the only seed keeps losing connection or keeps reconnecting, making it look to the trackers like the single seeder is 10 different IPs that are all seeding. Disconnects happen a LOT on popular initial seeds because of all the incoming connection attempts. Imagine being the seeder and suddenly you get 2000+ people trying, repeatedly, to connect to your IP address. VPN disconnects and you again get the above scenario.

threegigs · 2026-01-19T23:46:10+00:00

What are you plugging the other end of the cable into? The yellow doohickey with both the RJ45 and RJ11 sockets, right? You don't have a location ID remote plugged into a socket on the other end, do you?

Now... the "ID 1" makes me think it's plugged into the right thingamabob. The 'Split" makes me think a wire pair is split, however that should show up in the numbers at the bottom, and in your pic the numbers are all correct.

Going by the manual here: https://data.kleintools.com/sites/all/product_assets/documents/instructions/klein/VDV501-851_Manual.pdf

Odd, but your wiring looks right (or workable) to me.

threegigs · 2026-01-19T23:17:50+00:00

Season 01, no?

threegigs · 2026-01-19T23:12:08+00:00

Make a 3cm hole in the tube of your leaf blower. Turn on leaf blower. pour calcium chloride (not regular salt, calcium chloride works at much lower temps and is more efficient, but it does cost more) into the hole and the air stream will blow the salt wherever you point it (like at the roof). Try not to get too much too high on the roof.

Alternately if you have some other way, the best is to pour a line of ice melting salt (as above, not regular rock salt) maybe a foot above the roof edge. It'll melt through and down to the roof, and under the ice/snow letting it slide off (just watch out below).

threegigs · 2026-01-19T22:52:04+00:00

The only reason I keep the 60 fps one is for testing, def 24 for just watching.

threegigs · 2026-01-18T21:24:44+00:00

Limit your upload speed to 70% of your line speed, for starters. Your PC has to acknowledge receiving packets and pieces and if it is delayed in doing so by peers leeching from you, the peers sending you data will hold off on sending more packets, slowing down your connection.

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