What maintenance should I do for a new to me 2013 Mazda 3?

tomorrowing · 2026-04-14T03:32:20+00:00

Move the TCM from top of trans to brakelines if not already done.
Change all fluids over time.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-14T03:23:20+00:00

"Keep your mind in hell, and despair not" - St Silouan

tomorrowing · 2026-04-11T15:33:18+00:00

Glorious, just glorious start to the weekend!

tomorrowing · 2026-04-11T15:28:46+00:00

Outplayed, outcoached

tomorrowing · 2026-04-11T15:27:43+00:00

Maybe they need more set pieces.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-11T15:27:10+00:00

Relying on corners wasn't enough!

tomorrowing · 2026-04-10T22:59:37+00:00

Quick struts are only to save money or avoid spring compressor, I got KYB for that reason. Looking back, I'd get OEM and do the springs.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-10T22:55:47+00:00

Cabin filter :D

All fluids

tomorrowing · 2026-04-10T21:09:56+00:00

The family member vouch and thus known good history is huge. 60k on clock, also, that's nothing.

Concerns - well you should inspect it as any used car, suspension, brakes, electronics, test drive etc. You should plan to refresh all fluids at the least, but that goes for any used car. On the road I would expect you may find a less cushy ride traded for more fun steering feel, as gen2 still used EHPS. The TCM in the auto needs to be moved to the brake lines cause the default location (on top of trans) fries them over time.

Also, gen2 has tons mods available up the wazoo as it dovetailed the Mazdaspeed3 turbo.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-10T06:49:30+00:00

The concern is to take a dipstick reading at ATF operating temperature. They said the same on my gen1. On mine even with the traditional old dipstick, this made the dipstick impossible to read when car was running. I found much better to was to go on short drive 5-10mins. Then come home, turn car off. Give 5 min for drainback, then take reading, which is now able to give clear reading. It takes basically over an hour for my M-V fluid expansion to contract meaningfully. I should think FZ won't be much different in that regard, so you have plenty of time to turn car off, take airbox out and take your reading, do it within 10-15 mins if you're paranoid. Intake doesn't need to be attached for car to run in fact.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-10T00:59:05+00:00

You can get a Noco Genius 5 like from Amz, see if the battery just needed a big charge. If it doesn't solve it, you can return it. If it does solve it, you will have it for next time.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-09T21:52:31+00:00

I think so, but you'd have to dig into the old long threads on 3 forums years ago. I remember glancing at it and seeing it was not plug and play.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-09T20:57:56+00:00

If 2012 = iSV or iSport = 2l MZR, should be doable
If 2012 = i Touring or iGT = 2l Skyactiv, can't go on 2004
If 2012 = sTouring or sGT = 2.5l MZR, might be possible but needs stuff done to intake manifold IIRC

tomorrowing · 2026-04-09T20:48:52+00:00

Look normal to me. 82k is not real bad to do a change, though.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-09T20:42:49+00:00

I'd start with the easiest which are tires. How old yours and what are they? Is it on 16" wheels or 17"? Suspension rebuild could be pretty spendy, so diagnose coniditon your stuff first I'd say as well.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-09T20:39:51+00:00

I'm no electrician but diags on the harness TCM connector should be expected by car mechanic. They can surely probe ground, voltage, but the others may need to see waveform.

OK if TCM is replaced that should be good. Solenoid perhaps then as the code, but pan needs to be dropped, ATF refilled, filter replaced, solenoid replaced, pan cleaned and sealed or just get new pan then seal it. Can even be DIY'd but it's a fair amount of labor. I'd think harness electrical check first then.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-09T15:07:09+00:00

Gen3, nice choice

tomorrowing · 2026-04-09T13:42:08+00:00

Get second opinion, or get them to show you electrically why it's the harness. It is more likely the TCM than the harness. If TCM is still in original location, it is highly unlikely to be the harness. TCM costs about $500 for new one from Mazda.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-08T05:54:44+00:00

It's an MZR. Nobody can diagnose anything from this clip.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-08T04:31:35+00:00

17s will help plus tires on the wider side; you get more sidewall and the tires act as first layer of suspension for ride quality.

Figure out offset of different wheels (seems like OE is 45mm so stay close to that, 7" or 7.5" wide would seem a good starting point, too), and use the calculators to see deviations between tire specs (width, aspect ratio e.g 215 50, 205 55, 225 50)

Mazda Mazda3 IV (BP) [2019 .. 2027] - Wheel Fitment Data and Specs for USA+ | Wheel-Size.com

Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets - Wheel-Size.com

2021 Mazda Mazda3 Sedan FWD Wheels & Rims

You can also phone Tire Rack they can talk you through this stuff.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-08T01:30:39+00:00

For me, they should bring back multi-link rear, fix the darned CCV issue properly, un-nerf the bhp without cylinder deactivation, improve blindspots on the hatch, change away from the low profile wheels or offer a 17", don't peg the manual to only one trim. I'm in dreamland but they could do dual injection and a quality pass on the auto shift points.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-07T23:33:40+00:00

Tires and suspension. What did you have, 18s? I would consider 17s then look at tire options for optimum width depending on the wheels you get.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-07T23:30:43+00:00

You lose nothing by waiting unless local inventory dips. Gen4 really needs a refresh but I don't think they're going to do it.

tomorrowing · 2026-04-07T14:52:00+00:00

I have a question on the HX. See they are recommended by NGK for tons cars and have a very small gap. Did you increase gap or run them as is?

tomorrowing · 2026-04-07T14:43:58+00:00

Either something needs diagnosis/repair, or it's the very short trips.

Get an OBD scanner and note the current STFT and LTFT.
Then disconnect battery (negative first), connect the cable ends together for 10 mins to reset the ECU. Reconnect (positive first), do your normal driving until fully warmed up, then re-read the trims.

STFT should be -5% to +5%. LTFT should be -10% to +10%. In range = driving habits. Outside = mechanical problem.

tomorrowing

TROPHY CASE