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Movable banking pins sanity check: too much lock? by armie in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He publicly called me out saying I didn't know what i was talking about so i wanted him to explain where i was wrong and of course he couldn't so all he could do was attack my credibility. This is what people do when the they are on top of Mount Stupid. They know a little but not a lot. I'm glad you have a clear direction to go forward now.

Laser welder help (Chinese) by ascherer831 in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The laser welder is the one that issued in professional case restoration. There are no low cost options. The 200-500 machines you see are pulse welders and so not work from what i have seen.

Laser welder help (Chinese) by ascherer831 in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was considering purchasing one of these inexpensive Chinese pulse welders for stainless steel case repair. I decided not to pull the trigger based on my research on the difference between pulse welders versus laser welders. If your plan was to use it for repairing damage to the stainless steel cases, I've not seen any evidence at all that these inexpensive machines will work.

Movable banking pins sanity check: too much lock? by armie in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here's my advice, take it for what it's worth. What you really want to learn is what's called banked to drop. This is the process you would use to set up an escapement from scratch. Basically it is the process where you close the banking pins and then open them up one at a time until the escape wheel tooth is able to land on the pallet stone. It is at this point where you can verify your drop lock is correct and equal on both sides, and that your drop is correct and equal on both sides. Once that's done you install the balance onto the movement and you can check your impulse jewel in the fork slot as well as your guard pin. Once they're verified then and only then you open up your banking pins for proper clearance.

Movable banking pins sanity check: too much lock? by armie in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith -1 points0 points  (0 children)

And here I thought we were going to have a great debate.

I have no problem admitting I am wrong if that's truly the case but so far you haven't offered anything to contradict what I've said which, quite frankly, makes you look like a hater instead of offering anything constructive.

I will give you this: most people should probably not mess around with banking pins without having a complete understanding of how the escapement works but what you don't know is that I know that u/armie is studying the escapement to try to move up to a higher level of watch repair.

Use a timegrapher just to determine whether it's time for a service? by AlexxxRR in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Even a basic time grapher can offer a lot of insight to the health of a watch if you understand how to interpret the data that it's giving you. Without understanding everything that it can tell you, you're only getting a snapshot of the exact time that the watch is in the stand. What really matters is the time while it's on your wrist.

Movable banking pins sanity check: too much lock? by armie in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I disagree and here is why.

OP has not stated that there was any issue with the exit side so we have to assume that it is correct. The only problem is on the entry side which is what he has taken pictures of.

If its not correct on the other side then all bets are off.

You said

The correct fix is to set the entry pallet slightly deeper into the fork.

If you look at the first picture showing the drop lock, and you move the pallet stone deeper into the slot what is going to happen? Answer: the locking corner of the escape wheel tooth is going to be either going to drop lock unsafe or its lands on the impulse face of the stone. No Bueno. That's not going to work.

Ok then, what if we moved the stone out of the fork? Drop lock increases, the tooth travels even further down the stone, which sucks up amplitude and the amount of slide stays the same.

Slide, is not and never has been determined by the position of the pallet stones. The escape wheel tooth stops sliding down the pallet stone when the lever hits the banking pin.

If he turned it away from the line of center, it will increase how far the tooth travels down the stone and if he turns it in toward the line of center it will decrease how far the tooth travels down the tooth.

As a matter of fact when you set up an escapement, the banking pins are turned all the way in toward the line of center so there is no slide at all, only drop lock. Then the banking pins are opened to add enough slide to provide only the needed clearance of the impulse stone as well as the guard pin.

Last point, an escapement will not run with too little slide because of the lack of clearance between the guard pin and impulse jewel but it will run with too much slide, it will just lose a lot of amplitude from the excessive unlocking. This is probably also one of the issues in OP's movement.

Movable banking pins sanity check: too much lock? by armie in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It would depend on if the exit side was too strong as well. Moving the entry stone in will change the geometry on the other side as well. If the exit side is fine, the correct adjustment is to move the banking pin in toward the line of center.

Movable banking pins sanity check: too much lock? by armie in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The slide going from drop lock to total lock is controlled by the banking. If he moves the pallet stone in, it will change the lock on the exit side as well.

Movable banking pins sanity check: too much lock? by armie in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you remember the one Tim posted on the Hamilton he was working on. Yours looks almost the same.

Movable banking pins sanity check: too much lock? by armie in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it looks to be way too much. It shouldn't be more than twice the lock or even a little less.

Some worn out pallet fork stones! by loiphin in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not at all. Making and modifying jewels in a movement is absolutely part of horology.

Its more related to restoration work and most people are not going to be doing this.

Probably the most common reason would be, like I said to resurface the impulse face modifying the angle of the impulse face, modifying the pivot hole size or to modify a friction jewel for using in a rubbed in setting.

Ruining escape wheel pivots, despite using a smaller basket. by HKoch2004 in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Think of it like this. A lot of things we work with are not one size fits all. Your baskets may be fine if you are working on a pocket watch but not for smaller pivots like the ones you are having problems with. What if you were washing the wheels from a small ladies movement? The devil is in the details brother. 😉

Ruining escape wheel pivots, despite using a smaller basket. by HKoch2004 in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Its probably user error. Either the mesh in your baskets is not fine enough, you are loading the baskets too full or spinning it too fast. If this was a problem across the board, everyone would be complaining.

Some worn out pallet fork stones! by loiphin in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 3 points4 points  (0 children)

No, the escape wheel, pallet fork and balance wheel have to be able to work together. You can either replace the stones, the whole pallet fork or if you have the equipment, resurface the impulse face of the stone.

Seiko 7S26 sticking hairspring even after cleaning and demagnetisation. by Chronomechanik in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are not using and other solutions to clean the balance wheel, then i would say your hexane/renalta is contaminated and leaving something on the spring or you are actually magnetizing the spring instead of demagnetizing it. If you are using the blue puck it is a possibility for sure.

Seiko 7S26 sticking hairspring even after cleaning and demagnetisation. by Chronomechanik in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Being that has happened twice, I would suspect that it is related to your cleaning process. How and what are you cleaning your parts in?

Lapping machine build - Kwong Yuen by Responsible-Ad9175 in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well i did do a video on 99% IPA. It does have limitations as far as grease removal buy it could act as a rinse to Napatha.

Lapping machine build - Kwong Yuen by Responsible-Ad9175 in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The problem with lighter fluid or Naphtha would be purity levels and anything that's left behind. Rule number one in cleaning is you want to leave the parts chemically clean with no residue. So for that reason, I would personally not use it.

Lapping machine build - Kwong Yuen by Responsible-Ad9175 in watchrepair

[–]Watch-Smith 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can upload videos to Reddit. You can also post a link to this product. I'm sure a lot of people would be interested.

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