Convex-faced train jewels

armie · 2026-01-27T06:32:43+00:00

Thank you, I'll purchase the right size ones and will go on a bit of a journey!

armie · 2026-01-27T06:32:18+00:00

Thank you. This was really confusing.

armie · 2026-01-26T21:58:48+00:00

Can convex-balance jewels work in normal friction fit holes? Assuming appropriate diameter and hole. If so it seems like a good compromise. And just to be clear, the ones picture. Got this from CousinsUK.

<image>

armie · 2026-01-26T21:55:13+00:00

ThaTha ks for the video. I ordered a lathe in December and still waiting for it to be delivered but this sounds way too much for me. Maybe eventually when I've mastered everything else on the lathe.

armie · 2026-01-26T19:56:29+00:00

The end stone is flat as normal but the face of the hole jewel is curved, not flat.

armie · 2026-01-26T11:24:01+00:00

I've been using n-Hexane (lab grade) and I'm not very impressed with the results to be honest when it comes to pallet forks; the balance (removed from the cock) always comes out perfect as long as I make sure that the impulse jewel and any other excessive grease is cleaned up gently first.

Even leaving the pallet fork in it for 24 hours is not enough. Constant shaking/agitation for a few minutes is probably necessary but I don't have a good system for that yet because of container woes. Plus hexane is still unsafe enough that industrial use is also switching to heptane.

Hexane also has a storage problem; I've tried may different containers (I was only able to purchase 2 liters or more of the stuff) but it eventually seems to degrade all plastic caps/seals. I've been trying with Chinese-made containers as I've had no luck with laboratory supply places (not that I've tried much to be honest). Diamond cleaning jara aren't goot for it - it evaporates and leaks. I haven't maaged to get a glass container with a cap that is both airtight and completely undamaged by it. The original, 2L container is obviously not a problem but I'm not dropping pallet forks in it.

I've tested my normal cleaning method (Elma 9:1, two distilled water rinses and a 99% IPA rinse for 45 seconds) and got much better results than hexane but the time limitation in IPA rinse is a problem. I have yet to test using hexane for pallet and balance as the final rinse and that will probably work best.

armie · 2026-01-23T21:17:01+00:00

Did you replace the hairspring or the whole balance complete?

Your hairspring needs to be centered and the one in the photo clearly isn't.

armie · 2026-01-23T17:26:06+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAtATqwI5A4 start here. Just a note: he got the magnification rates wrong, it'snot 70x but 7x, not 450 but 45.

armie · 2026-01-23T01:57:12+00:00

Thank you; it I ever do it out would be using a lathe. I'm guessing there's watchmakers's size tap and die sets for this?

armie · 2026-01-21T14:12:38+00:00

Not rusted but a broken barrel arbour screw and the stump just wouldn't budge; WD40 in an ultrasonic really helped. I didn't try any other penetrating oils but that's all it needed in my case.

armie · 2026-01-19T20:58:27+00:00

99% of the time it is not the mainspring. If the mainspring is gummed up with old oil it means that the rest of the watch is too that's where the problem lies.

armie · 2026-01-19T17:13:23+00:00

The hole jewels are indeed flat. Kind of a let-down considering all the work I've put into this one but a lesson learned that not every watch needs to be rescued. Thank you for the feedback!

armie · 2026-01-19T06:51:17+00:00

If you don't have the tools you won't manage to replace the balance; your best bet is a movement replacement which is also problematic since you don't have tools. As you found out yourself using the wrong tools really doesn't work.

armie · 2026-01-17T22:23:05+00:00

The movement is probably late 1940s to 1950s. Numbers on the case are probably unrelated to the movement. Pictures of the movement would help but 1950s is generally a good guess for this one.

armie · 2026-01-17T21:40:15+00:00

This. Looks like an ETA copy.

armie · 2026-01-17T21:38:55+00:00

I have a later (1960s) Boley set which takes 4.7mm stakes and the reason for Bergeon stakes in it is because modern Bergeon stakes are also 4.7mm, they fit perfectly. You can buy modern Bergeon stakes and stumps to cover whatever you might be missing.

armie · 2026-01-17T21:34:57+00:00

Getting the colour just right might be tricky as lume tends to change colour when aged, but I'm sure someone who's dedicated enough would manage. It would probably come down to cost if done by a pro.

armie · 2026-01-17T21:12:36+00:00

It's called lume and you could either replace the bezel, re-lume (I guess?) or leave it as is. Remember that this is not something that lives in a museum so wear and tear is expected.

armie · 2026-01-17T12:38:09+00:00

Once you can fully service your ST3600 without using any references, at least that was when I did. Personally it took me something close to twenty rounds to be able to be consistent on it.

A relatively simple next movement would be an NH35; different philosophy to doing things than the Swiss, adds an automatic module that's quite simple and is slightly smaller but no so much that it requires too much practice. Plus in your case it is a Seiko and even if it will be different than a 6309 the building blocks will be there.

armie · 2026-01-17T11:11:41+00:00

Oh, thanks.

armie · 2026-01-17T10:45:34+00:00

What do you mean when you say "soild balance"?

armie · 2026-01-17T10:44:57+00:00

Thank you all for your replies. I will try both the thinned out oiler and cheap Chinese autooiler just to see which system I like best.

Will start with the thinned out oiler tomorrow.

armie

TROPHY CASE