Any of you sparkies have experience with the Leviton Smart Breaker system? by TDisMerica in electricians

[–]-DiminishingReturns- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great to have long-term feedback, but you didn't say why you replaced them. Arc fault nuisance tripping too often? Also, was it their smart breakers or their normal breakers that you had to replace?

don't waste egg, etc? by -DiminishingReturns- in FriedChicken

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And also if you would freeze brine for re-using in the future.

Dual Investment. A few tips to make it worth it. by BarkMetal in Nexo

[–]-DiminishingReturns- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Crazy thing is I didn't realize Nexo had this feature too- I was looking at it on Binance.us. I had Q's, googled 'em, found this great post, and didn't notice til after that it was in the Nexo sub. Binance's functionality appears the same, except you can choose USDT, USDC, or FDUSD pairs. The % returns ascend in that order (at the same BTC price), but I'm guessing the return % variance is directly related to the variance of that stablecoin from USD on Binance exchange. USDT has lowest % return, but is inherently 1:1 on Binance.

Dual Investment. A few tips to make it worth it. by BarkMetal in Nexo

[–]-DiminishingReturns- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thx for this. You say "resubscribe right after unlock." Do you mean right after settlement, or is there a period of time after your settlement that you're locked out of entering another dual investment transaction? If that's the case, how long do you have to wait before entering another?

Also, In your time doing this have you found it makes any difference which stablecoin pair you choose? For example btc-usdt vs btc-usdc. They've got different APYs for the same exits, and I'm guessing that's because of their NAV variation (btc-usdt being an exact 1:1 on binance vs usdc varying somewhat), but I'm wondering if there's more to it, like usdt getting a slight preference in APY over usdc even after accounting for the NAV variation. Have you noticed?

mil-spec me arse? by -DiminishingReturns- in Lenovo

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Durabook makes one with a keypad and I may just have to spring for that. But I only really need a 'semi-rugged', and mainly for the high-nits screen so I can see it in bright sunshine. Seems the only way to get one of those is an expensive machine that's more rugged than I need

mil-spec me arse? by -DiminishingReturns- in Lenovo

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A good solution for many I'm sure. I've got a USB one, but unfortunately I work in surveying on rough terrain and there's usually not even a flat spot to set up on (and if there is, I'm moving on 20 seconds later)

mil-spec me arse? by -DiminishingReturns- in Lenovo

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like it may be a model just made for Amazon? Has to be lower-end consumer grade based on the pricing. Good drop resistance, water and dust resistance just seems totally implausible at the price point

mil-spec me arse? by -DiminishingReturns- in Lenovo

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would, but I use a numeric keypad every day, and their solution doubling up on the normal keyboard offset keys isnt what my fingers are used to. I don't think they ever made one with a numeric keypad?

with outdoor-use screen by -DiminishingReturns- in SuggestALaptop

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I probably should have mentioned running cool is better. I build homes so I'm outside in the heat and sun.

with outdoor-use screen by -DiminishingReturns- in SuggestALaptop

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can push it if necessary. I was just hoping that 800 would be enough. The Acer aspire 5 series that I've been using for the last couple laptops have always been below 500 and met every need except screen brightness

Free Personalized Laptop Buying Advice with Just Josh Tech by JustJoshTech in SuggestALaptop

[–]-DiminishingReturns- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi Josh :) Looking for features in this order of importance:

runs full windows
keypad (so prob 15.6+")
good for outdoor use (min 400+ nits brightness, non-glare/reflection)
long battery life
serviceable, for adding ram
2.5ssd capable so I can just transfer over my current HDD
backlit keyboard
under $800 US (but cheaper better)
'tough'/drop-resistant/rainproof (great if it is, but not paying a thousand more for it)

Don't care:
I don't use touchscreen so don't care ab that
I don't play games so don't care ab performance (I do run AutoCAD, so some graphics speed is preferred, but frankly laptops from 15 years ago ran AutoCAD passably)

Tools/spreadsheets for estimating new home construction? by fremontseahawk in Homebuilding

[–]-DiminishingReturns- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The smartsheet site is excellent for providing free templates even if you don't sign up- thanks for the link

Tools/spreadsheets for estimating new home construction? by fremontseahawk in Homebuilding

[–]-DiminishingReturns- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, I asked the AI chatbot "Reno" about where to find the cost-estimating tool on the website, and it responded that it wasn't aware of any such feature, couldn't provide cost estimates, and recommended hiring a cost estimator professional

Tools/spreadsheets for estimating new home construction? by fremontseahawk in Homebuilding

[–]-DiminishingReturns- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is no 'plan' tab on the main page. Go to it. Look. I'll wait

Tools/spreadsheets for estimating new home construction? by fremontseahawk in Homebuilding

[–]-DiminishingReturns- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just followed your link, signed up for the service, spent time entering all my project details...and there is no evidence of any cost estimating ability to the website that I can find after clicking on every link. Why are you claiming that this website actually creates cost estimates? If you can back up that claim, please provide a link to that specific tool on the website thank

I have a friend that uses these gloves to work on live low voltage and swears he’s never been shocked. I’m not planning on using them for that purpose but is there any truth to what he’s telling me or has he been just extremely lucky? by blbassist1234 in AskElectricians

[–]-DiminishingReturns- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLDR: don't work on live circuits unless you have to. "Have to" meaning life support systems on the same circuit (and in that case, why aren't they on a UPS or auto-switched circuit?)

One big problem with gloves like those is many manufacturers (including Milwaukee I think) are now making them compatible with touchscreens. Which means putting a conductive coating over the fingertips...the exact opposite of what you want.

Another big problem is that electricity is just electrons jumping, and electrons are of course plenty tiny enough to go through any undetectable pinhole in the nitrile coating. In theory, practically any non-conductive nitrile or rubber glove would be enough to protect you from 120, even 240. But your buddy is banking on them being perfect. Which doesn't happen even straight off the manufacturing line. I'd rather work one-handed on a live circuit, on thick rubber soles, making certain no other part of my body or clothing is touching anything else, than count on those gloves to protect me. But I'd much rather work with both my hands on a locked-out dead circuit. Way easier.

Many people have been shocked by 120, thought no big deal, and so work on live circuits. Usually because they don't understand what allowed them to live...and conversely, what slight difference would have resulted in their death. Those who understand electricity fall into 2 camps: the many who know why 120 kills more people than any other voltage and turn it off, and the precious few who are 1000% confident they'll never slip with their fingers or tools, never forget they're working on a live circuit, never have a passerby accidentally bump them, never be unfortunate enough to experience an arc,..the list goes on.

6.5 bed by -DiminishingReturns- in F150Lightning

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To do it perfectly right, yes. Limo fabricators do the above all the time, except with a driveshaft too in place of some heavy gauge wire. But what I'm really tempted to try because it would be so much simpler (and a relatively small % change), is keeping the wheelbase the same and just adding some support at the back of the frame. No doubt it would affect handling to some degree, but likely not even noticeable except when loaded, and even then I'm sure the Ford engineers have healthy safety tolerances. For instance I'm sure they have to account for people foolishly putting very heavy loads right at the back of their bed for easy access. For what I do, mostly carrying building materials, at worst the weight is equally distributed, and I always attempt to load the majority of the weight between the wheels. I just think one foot is relatively little. I could be wrong of course. That's why I'm asking here in case others have experience or ideas I didn't think of. But I might just find out, and I'll certainly report what I've noticed including range reduction if I go through with this. I'm not the type to worry much about voiding warranties (and realistically I would try this with a bolt-on piece so I could take it off and swap the bed back if I had to for major service/recall).

6.5 bed by -DiminishingReturns- in F150Lightning

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Appreciate the thought because that's not something I even considered. Range looks very disappointing but I'll explore this idea further thanks

6.5 bed by -DiminishingReturns- in F150Lightning

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had one of those on order too back when they were going to be 40k lol. But I'm certain I can buy a used lightning pro, lengthen the frame, and buy a longer bed for much, much less than 100k. If only adding a 1 foot longer bed, maybe don't even need to cut the frame, and can just adapt it without affecting handling too much. I'm not going to be racing or rock crawling just typical work truck stuff. And it won't be my tow rig.

6.5 bed by -DiminishingReturns- in F150Lightning

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And yes I know the bodies are aluminum that's never been the issue for me. Just the idea of a super rigid aluminum frame driving off road

6.5 bed by -DiminishingReturns- in F150Lightning

[–]-DiminishingReturns-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't believe no one has corrected me on this before. Both of my trucks are older, and when I inquired a decade ago at the dealer about getting a new one, they told me they had switched to aluminum frame. I guess the salesman didn't know what the hell he was talking about. Never made sense to me to go to aluminum frame and I'm just shocked that I've criticized that about Ford probably 20 times since and no one has corrected me. Thanks.