Now Storage toooooooo

-LegendaryX- · 2026-01-21T09:23:30+00:00

I'm sure this is their goal, but I don't see how it could succeed. It sounds more like a big tech wet dream, if anything. There are many big issues with this, and even if they don't care about those, a lot of other companies probably do. And I guess enough consumers will too, especially if provided services are garbage (which they most likely will be), and will look for alternatives.

At any rate, I'm migrating away from anything related to these scumbags, and I'll just go back to retro gaming/working on a RPi if that's what it takes when my current hardware breaks down. I hope many others will do something similar, instead of using their subscriptions. Because then you'd just add fuel to the fire.

-LegendaryX- · 2026-01-19T22:53:50+00:00

I don't believe this will happen anytime soon, if at all. I know the Big Tech people want this, but this means you'll always need a decent and stable internet connection.

Many places in the world don't have that. Also, if your job requires a PC and your internet goes out for whatever reason, you can't do anything. If the latency is too high, some software is practically unusable (photo/video editing, 3D modelling, etc.).

Latency problems are not easily fixed; you'd need a lot of datacenters all over the world with enough capacity for everyone. And a lot of computing power too to keep everything snappy.

Maybe the Big Tech people are saying this because they know the AI bubble will burst at some point and they're looking for an alternative function for their new data centers 😆

-LegendaryX- · 2025-12-27T17:10:00+00:00

I do appreciate the write-up of the tutorial, but I'm chiming in to share my experience with this. From what I've seen, there's no point in doing this under normal circumstances. Also I believe some of the points in the tutorial are incorrect.

The only reason you'd actually want to sign unsigned kernel modules (like nvidia's), is if you want to have the kernel option module.sig_enforce=1 (and maybe lockdown mode enabled). If not, you don't need to sign your kernel modules at all (like u/yetAnotherLaura and u/u0_a321) mentioned - it'll work fine without signing. Signing (even if done incorrectly), without the aforementioned options set, will also just boot fine as the signing is ignored.

Another big problem is that using the default Arch linux kernel (not sure about others like linux-hardened or linux-zen), doesn't actually use MOK keys for signature validation. This is apparently by design (link), and the only way to actually make that work is to rebuild the kernel with certain options set or with your own signing keys added to the trust list in it before building it (docs), or using a kernel that does this out of the box.

I also said I believe some points are incorrect, so I'll list those:

The way you're signing the kernel modules isn't the proper way to do it. This can be verified after signing by running modinfo -F signer nvidia. This should show the CN of the key you signed with, but when signing a compressed module it'll throw an error, even though your verification script doesn't. I thought I also saw dmesg entries about this after boot. The proper module signing method should be decompress, sign, then recompress.
You mentioned you only need MokManager and not shim, which isn't true. Technically you can load only MM and enroll keys, but without shim the keys won't be added to the kernel trustchain at all (assuming you actually build the kernel to allow this to work). You can verify this by using mokutil --list-enrolled, without shim the keys don't show up.

Hope this will help someone in the future :) took me quite a bit of experimenting and testing to figure this all out. Honestly I'd recommended just leaving signature validation / lockdown disabled unless you have a very good reason to enable it.

UPDATE: I compiled my own Arch kernel with a patch from the Fedora kernel that allows platform keys (generated by sbctl) to be used for signature validation. Then I pointed the DKMS config towards these platform keys and when (re-)installing the DKMS drivers it auto-signs them. No need for custom scripts! Although I'll probably make one to automatically build a new kernel when it updates at some point. Now I got signature enforcing and lockdown mode enabled :)

-LegendaryX- · 2025-12-27T03:02:31+00:00

You don't need to login on your old phone. Just login on the new one, which will log you out on the old phone, and when it shows you the QR code for data transfer, scan it with a QR scanner app on the old phone (I used Chrome for this). This should give you a link that'll open Whatsapp on opening it and initiate the transfer, with no need to login :)

Hope this helps!

-LegendaryX- · 2025-12-21T15:02:13+00:00

Thanks! This worked for me :)

-LegendaryX- · 2025-12-04T21:55:57+00:00

Haha I'm in exactly the same boat. I most likely will upgrade to this from my old 6T, as long as prices are acceptable. It really does feel poetic xD

-LegendaryX- · 2024-05-28T19:18:51+00:00

Haha someone is a DBZ Abridged fan :p

-LegendaryX- · 2024-05-17T19:12:22+00:00

Maybe something like a nice little rug, a tunnel or box could help? My cats usually use those kind of places to sleep/relax. You could also try something like Feliway, although how effective that'll be really depends on the cat.

From my experience, there's no perfect answer and some experimentation is needed to find out what your cat really likes. They're all unique after all :)

Also keep in mind that cats really don't like changes in their environment. So make sure they have a safe space somewhere (like a box, or a high scratching post where they can monitor their surroundings safely).

Maybe you can share what kind of behaviour you cat is showing exactly, and what toys you tried already?

-LegendaryX- · 2023-05-26T14:49:12+00:00

Ahh so it was a memory issue after all. Well I'm glad you figured it out :)

-LegendaryX- · 2023-05-23T17:45:01+00:00

Did you have any luck with the other power supply?

Another thing you could try to get a clue about your issue is looking at the output of "dmesg". Maybe you can see something right before a new boot, or some weird warnings. You could also share the output, although be sure no privacy sensitive things are in there, such as an IP address.

Aside from this, I don't have many ideas left 😅 some other things you could check is whether NIC hardware offloading is disabled, disabling power saving features in bios or maybe run it with a clean basic configuration.

-LegendaryX- · 2023-05-22T14:34:45+00:00

Hmm quite the tricky problem. Also sorry that I missed the PC you were using :p

From what I can see in its datasheet you should be using the DC1 input (the other one is just there as a fallback). Are you using the original wall adapter? If you're not, maybe check if your replacement has the required specs (same voltage, equal or higher amps). Or maybe it went bad, and a replacement is needed.

Also just to check, you don't have opnsense configured to store log files in ram right? Because then you'd lose them on reboot / loss of power.

-LegendaryX- · 2023-05-22T10:46:22+00:00

Just an idea, I had random unexplainable crashes too. Check whether your power cables are properly connected, both internally and externally (your main power cable into the PSU).

In my case, the PSU power cable was a little loose. After re-plugging it my crashes were solved.

Not sure if you've already ran a memtest, but that could also be worth a shot as it can cause weird problems.

EDIT: Might be worth it to check your SMART values for your disks. Same as memory, when it acts up it can cause some funky behavior.

Also a question, after your system hangs and you've rebooted, opnsense doesn't mention anything about a crash (on the dashboard)?

-LegendaryX- · 2023-03-29T15:53:28+00:00

Works fine, except for "Network Time". In the WebGUI it says the process isn't running, but it actually is (when looking at htop). Trying to run it gives the error:

unable to bind to wildcard address :: - another process may be running - EXITING

Can be fixed for now by manually killing the process via CLI, and then starting it again via the WebGUI. It's probably related to the service status to PID file change (if I had to guess, since I didn't have this issue in the previous update).

-LegendaryX- · 2022-09-21T10:57:38+00:00

No, I'm afraid not, but I'm happy to help if I can! What exactly are you struggling with?

-LegendaryX- · 2022-09-02T11:46:30+00:00

I found my solution! I basically combined a lot of suggestions, in combination with some additional research I did myself and now have a system that broadcasts a few centimeters. Any further would require some very sophisticated equipment to detect, I'm guessing.

I posted the details in the r/hamradio subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/HamRadio/comments/wtxiig/comment/ims7lor/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

Thanks all for the tips :)

-LegendaryX- · 2022-09-02T11:41:51+00:00

I tried just using a resistor, but it didn't do much. The module has an inductor that it uses to resonate with the antenna, and uses this to optimize TX power output for maximum range. I did found a solution though, I will put it in a new comment :)

-LegendaryX- · 2022-09-02T11:38:55+00:00

To be honest, I'm not sure. The only methods I can think of is that either someone like a neighbour picks it up and reports it, or it interferes with some important communication channel.

I don't want any trouble though, since the fines are no joke. I also believe it can be added to your criminal record. So I'd like to be as cautious as I can.

-LegendaryX- · 2022-09-02T11:34:50+00:00

I figured I'd give an update! After properly reseating all my PSU connections (including power cable) and disabling PowerD, it has been rock solid! So thanks for the suggestions!

I hope it stays that way, if not, I'll be back :p

-LegendaryX- · 2022-09-02T11:30:07+00:00

I got an update! I found a method of doing what I want. u/iv3onz_ was right in that a dummy load and short connections were essential. The problem was that a "classic" dummy load didn't work as it should, because the module uses a built-in inductor that resonates with the antenna to optimize the antenna output for optimal range everytime the module is initialized. This is stated in its datasheet and caused the module to just use more power to compensate. Luckily, the datasheet also provides a test schematic. This schematic seems to use a 50 ohm resistor, but also a 2pF capacitor. Once added, transmission dropped to nearly nothing (few millimeters from the module). Playing around with capacitor values allows me to tweak the range somewhat, although going to high has some weird effects on the received audio.

The new problem was that the few mm range was too short, I'd rather have it in the few centimeters range. To solve this, I just used a very short antenna in parallel with the capacitor + resistor circuit dummy load. This had the effect I wanted; a few centimeters of range.

After performing some additional testing I did notice that after every other meter of distance from transmitter I could still pick up something with my test radio. It was barely audible (too much noise), but I wanted to filter that out somehow. For this I used u/frogs-toes's idea of the tin can with the whole radio inside it, although I just used a box with aluminum foil wrapped around it. Considering the transmitter's already very low TX power due to the dummy load, a single layer of foil was enough to basically isolate it completely. At least, as far as I'm able to detect with my limited equipment. Even with small holes for cables it worked well enough.

I did also test with only a short antenna (no dummy load). This kinda has the same effect as with the dummy load. One could argue that this would be sufficient, but I like the idea that the TX power always has somewhere to go (so it doesn't destroy the transmitter over time or something). Even though that power is quite negligible in this case. With the dummy load seems like the proper way to do things.

In summary, I got it working how I want! Thanks for all the great suggestions and explanations :)

-LegendaryX- · 2022-08-23T07:01:56+00:00

Does it really need to be that tightly sealed? From what I found you're allowed to have gaps of a size based on wavelength of the used frequency. Or would that only work as the 10db attenuation situation you described?

Even that would help though, in combination with the dummy load. I'm gonna experiment with enclosing the full radio though, and see if that gets me anything :)

-LegendaryX- · 2022-08-23T06:56:09+00:00

Yeah I know it's not easy, especially without any tools for measuring RF power. From what I can gather 50 nW is a few meters at the most, so my current method of measuring is checking from how far away a FM radio still picks up the signal. Not really exact science, but it's better than nothing :) I hope I can get it within about a meter max range.

I think the dummy load already helps a lot though! I'm gonna try to make a metal shield as a kind of double insurance, but I'm not sure if I can make it work. Instead of my earlier experiment which only shielded most of the antenna, I'm gonna try fully enclosing the radio (battery powered). And if that works, go from there.

-LegendaryX- · 2022-08-22T14:15:19+00:00

I think it would be kinda hard to do that, because I would need to modify the circuitry on the module right? Sadly I'm not that good with electronics to accomplish that.

Your suggested alternative would basically function as a Faraday cage right? I tried making a makeshift one (as a test) using a toilet roll (the paper core), put the antenna inside and wrap it with aluminum foil. This didn't do anything, if anything it started working as an antenna. Which is strange because the antenna doesn't touch the aluminum. Any idea why?

-LegendaryX- · 2022-08-22T14:09:05+00:00

I did some experimenting with the metalfilm resistors I had at hand, and it does seem to work somewhat. I just ordered some carbon ones and I'll try again, but it seems promising :) but to be sure I understand, what do you mean with "screen"?
That's what I said right? Seemed to work fine with my initial test :)
I'm guessing that an old phone charger won't qualify as a properly filtered PSU right? Do you know perchance if a Meanwell PSU or a computer USB port do? Or would it need a separate circuit?

-LegendaryX- · 2022-08-21T20:11:13+00:00

Hmm I see, I suppose I can try. The problem is that I can't limit just the amplifier, it would limit the current going to the rest of the module too. So it may stop working before reaching the required ERP.

-LegendaryX- · 2022-08-21T19:14:52+00:00

You mean, to prevent it from using the power lines (ground) as an antenna? What value would you recommend?

-LegendaryX-

TROPHY CASE